JupiterBMW
10-17-2013, 05:57 AM
This DIY is for those that would like to have the "all windows" button retrofitted into their sedan. The "all windows" button is one that came in the convertible cars, used for rolling down all windows together before lowering the convertible top. Instead, the sedans have the window "lock" button. Pictures below show the two setups.
OEM Sedan setup- Window lock button between drivers side front/rear windows.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_0704.jpg
OEM Vert setup- All windows button between drivers side front/rear windows. Switch block is overall the same size!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_1337.jpg
For the DIY, you will need to purchase the switch assembly. I found mine brand new, on eBay for about $50 shipped. They're pretty easy to locate. You'll also need to get some pins as you have to add one wire to the drivers side window switch connector. I chose to clip this connector with about 6-8" of wire from a junk car as I know I have the correct pins, and I have spares too! From there, you'll only need to do some wiring mods, and then some simple coding to make it all happen.
WARNING... This mod is NOT 100% perfect as it will affect overall functionality of your car. You see, the car will have to be coded as a convertible. Convertibles do NOT have rear doors, so doing this mod will render the window switches in the rear doors inoperable. The switches up front will still operate the rear windows though, independently or with the all windows button. So, keep this in mind if you choose to do this mod. Personally, I have two very small children, and I don't want them to have the ability to open the windows, so for me it is ok. You might not like that idea.
Now, onto the DIY.... Good luck and take your time!
1. Remove the shift knob and shift boot.
2. Remove two screws that hold the shifter surround trim and remove the trim. Don't pull too far out with the trim until you disconnect the two wiring connectors for the drivers and passengers window switch assemblies.
3. Pop out the drivers switch assembly from the trim, and pop the new unit in its place, direct swap.
4. Now comes the fun part... First, you have to make one new wire to be inserted into the drivers side switch, long enough that it will run up into the dash and to the passenger side, behind the glove box, where the GM5 module resides. This will require one of the pins, and about 4' of wire (18-22ga is sufficient).
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_1210.jpg
5. Remove the glove box for access to the GM5 module. You do NOT need to remove the GM5 module. Follow this link to a great DIY for removing the glove box/GM5. Again, you only need to remove the glove box, not the whole GM5... Stop after Step 6.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/gm5_removal.htm
6. Now, you need to insert the wire you made up into pin 7 on the window switch connector. This will require you to unclip the locking tab on the side of the connector, and then slide the pin into position. It should click into place. Once this is done, you can pop the locking tab back down. There is only one open slot in this connector, and it should be pin 7. Verify though so as not to cause any other issues.
7. From there, you need to run the wire into the dash, and over to the passenger foot well area, for connection at the GM5 module.
8. Now you need to make some connections at the GM5. There are three connectors on the GM5, and we will be focusing on the one all the way to the left (drivers side). This is connector X254. Locate this one and disconnect it. You will need to remove some tape to separate this bundle of wires from the other 2 connectors going to the GM5.
9. First, you need to remove the outer black cover on the connector, exposing the individual pins. Using a small dental pick or very small flat screwdriver, you need to push pin 21 out. This pin will need to be taped up, it will not be reused.
10. This next step has a couple of options. To make this permanent, wires can be cut and then reconnected. OR, for a more temporary solution, you can use wire taps, shown below. They sell the wire tap assemblies, each one having both connectors shown below. You will need 3 sets. I chose to use the wire taps as they are not permanent, and this mod can be undone very easily.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/navigation_installation_guide//page2c.jpghttp://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/navigation_installation_guide//page2d.jpg
Now, here is where you have two options, a more temporary solution, or one that is more permanent.
Temporary solution (permanent if you leave it, but easy to remove and revert back to stock)
11. First, you'll need to connect an insulated spade connector to the extra wire you ran through the dash. This is the light blue connector shown in the pic above.
12. Now, back to the X254 connector on the GM5. Locate pin #16. You will need to install one of the wire taps on this wire, about 4-5" back from the connector. This is the dark blue connector. Once you crimp it onto the wire (tight!) plug the spare wire spade connector into this tap. Reference the pics above to see what it looks like when they're installed correctly.
13. Now, on the same connector, locate pin #4. Install a wire tap here as well.
14. Install a 3rd wire tap on the wire you removed from pin #21. Then, make a small jumper wire with the remaining two insulated spade connectors. Connect the jumper wire from the wire tap on the disconnected pin#21 wire to the wire tap on pin #4.
15. The wiring is done. Reinstall the cover on connector X254, and then reconnect the connector into the GM5 module.
16. Now, choosing the temporary solution, you will have an extra step. You basically tapped into the wires coming from the driver's side rear door window switch. So, you'll want to pop that switch out of the drivers rear door and disconnect it. Otherwise, once you're all done, this one switch will still operate, and funny enough, it TOO will act as an "all windows" button. No big deal, just disconnect it and reinstall the switch.
The more permanent solution Again, also able to be undone, just not as easy. This is for those that want full committal, or at least those that hate the small plastic crimp connectors.
11. On the X254 connector on the GM5. Locate pin #16. Cut this wire about 5" back from the connector.
12. Now, on the same connector, locate pin #4. Cut this wire in about the same location, 5" back.
13. Strip the wires you just clipped (only the ends coming out of the connector.) Also, strip back the end of the new wire you installed into the dash, coming from the window switch. Twist/solder/tape/shrink wrap the new wire you installed onto the wire that goes to pin #16.
14. Now, the pin #21 that you removed from the X254 connector. Cut that pin off. Strip this wire back and connect it to wire that goes to pin #4. Again, make sure to tape/shrink wrap to your liking to ensure all connections are safely insulated.
15. The wiring is done. Reinstall the cover on connector X254, and then reconnect the connector into the GM5 module.
16. You essentially cut off the connections from the drivers rear door window switch, so nothing else needs to be done, unlike the other method.
Both methods... The rest of the process
17. Reinstall the glove box.
18. Reconnect the window switches and install the shifter surround. Install all the other goodies.
19. Now, if you power up the car, you'll notice that the "all windows" button only operates the drivers rear window. If it does, congrats, your wiring is good. If it doesn't you have a wiring problem and need to go back and verify.
20. Now onto the coding. Using NCS, I changed the code line that basically says the car is a convertible. I forget the exact line of code, but I can look it up and edit this post later.
Congrats, you're done! Enjoy your new mod! :biggrin
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1viQ05YL9w&feature=youtu.be
OEM Sedan setup- Window lock button between drivers side front/rear windows.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_0704.jpg
OEM Vert setup- All windows button between drivers side front/rear windows. Switch block is overall the same size!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_1337.jpg
For the DIY, you will need to purchase the switch assembly. I found mine brand new, on eBay for about $50 shipped. They're pretty easy to locate. You'll also need to get some pins as you have to add one wire to the drivers side window switch connector. I chose to clip this connector with about 6-8" of wire from a junk car as I know I have the correct pins, and I have spares too! From there, you'll only need to do some wiring mods, and then some simple coding to make it all happen.
WARNING... This mod is NOT 100% perfect as it will affect overall functionality of your car. You see, the car will have to be coded as a convertible. Convertibles do NOT have rear doors, so doing this mod will render the window switches in the rear doors inoperable. The switches up front will still operate the rear windows though, independently or with the all windows button. So, keep this in mind if you choose to do this mod. Personally, I have two very small children, and I don't want them to have the ability to open the windows, so for me it is ok. You might not like that idea.
Now, onto the DIY.... Good luck and take your time!
1. Remove the shift knob and shift boot.
2. Remove two screws that hold the shifter surround trim and remove the trim. Don't pull too far out with the trim until you disconnect the two wiring connectors for the drivers and passengers window switch assemblies.
3. Pop out the drivers switch assembly from the trim, and pop the new unit in its place, direct swap.
4. Now comes the fun part... First, you have to make one new wire to be inserted into the drivers side switch, long enough that it will run up into the dash and to the passenger side, behind the glove box, where the GM5 module resides. This will require one of the pins, and about 4' of wire (18-22ga is sufficient).
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/E46%20Window%20Switch%20Retrofit/IMG_1210.jpg
5. Remove the glove box for access to the GM5 module. You do NOT need to remove the GM5 module. Follow this link to a great DIY for removing the glove box/GM5. Again, you only need to remove the glove box, not the whole GM5... Stop after Step 6.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/gm5_removal.htm
6. Now, you need to insert the wire you made up into pin 7 on the window switch connector. This will require you to unclip the locking tab on the side of the connector, and then slide the pin into position. It should click into place. Once this is done, you can pop the locking tab back down. There is only one open slot in this connector, and it should be pin 7. Verify though so as not to cause any other issues.
7. From there, you need to run the wire into the dash, and over to the passenger foot well area, for connection at the GM5 module.
8. Now you need to make some connections at the GM5. There are three connectors on the GM5, and we will be focusing on the one all the way to the left (drivers side). This is connector X254. Locate this one and disconnect it. You will need to remove some tape to separate this bundle of wires from the other 2 connectors going to the GM5.
9. First, you need to remove the outer black cover on the connector, exposing the individual pins. Using a small dental pick or very small flat screwdriver, you need to push pin 21 out. This pin will need to be taped up, it will not be reused.
10. This next step has a couple of options. To make this permanent, wires can be cut and then reconnected. OR, for a more temporary solution, you can use wire taps, shown below. They sell the wire tap assemblies, each one having both connectors shown below. You will need 3 sets. I chose to use the wire taps as they are not permanent, and this mod can be undone very easily.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/navigation_installation_guide//page2c.jpghttp://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/navigation_installation_guide//page2d.jpg
Now, here is where you have two options, a more temporary solution, or one that is more permanent.
Temporary solution (permanent if you leave it, but easy to remove and revert back to stock)
11. First, you'll need to connect an insulated spade connector to the extra wire you ran through the dash. This is the light blue connector shown in the pic above.
12. Now, back to the X254 connector on the GM5. Locate pin #16. You will need to install one of the wire taps on this wire, about 4-5" back from the connector. This is the dark blue connector. Once you crimp it onto the wire (tight!) plug the spare wire spade connector into this tap. Reference the pics above to see what it looks like when they're installed correctly.
13. Now, on the same connector, locate pin #4. Install a wire tap here as well.
14. Install a 3rd wire tap on the wire you removed from pin #21. Then, make a small jumper wire with the remaining two insulated spade connectors. Connect the jumper wire from the wire tap on the disconnected pin#21 wire to the wire tap on pin #4.
15. The wiring is done. Reinstall the cover on connector X254, and then reconnect the connector into the GM5 module.
16. Now, choosing the temporary solution, you will have an extra step. You basically tapped into the wires coming from the driver's side rear door window switch. So, you'll want to pop that switch out of the drivers rear door and disconnect it. Otherwise, once you're all done, this one switch will still operate, and funny enough, it TOO will act as an "all windows" button. No big deal, just disconnect it and reinstall the switch.
The more permanent solution Again, also able to be undone, just not as easy. This is for those that want full committal, or at least those that hate the small plastic crimp connectors.
11. On the X254 connector on the GM5. Locate pin #16. Cut this wire about 5" back from the connector.
12. Now, on the same connector, locate pin #4. Cut this wire in about the same location, 5" back.
13. Strip the wires you just clipped (only the ends coming out of the connector.) Also, strip back the end of the new wire you installed into the dash, coming from the window switch. Twist/solder/tape/shrink wrap the new wire you installed onto the wire that goes to pin #16.
14. Now, the pin #21 that you removed from the X254 connector. Cut that pin off. Strip this wire back and connect it to wire that goes to pin #4. Again, make sure to tape/shrink wrap to your liking to ensure all connections are safely insulated.
15. The wiring is done. Reinstall the cover on connector X254, and then reconnect the connector into the GM5 module.
16. You essentially cut off the connections from the drivers rear door window switch, so nothing else needs to be done, unlike the other method.
Both methods... The rest of the process
17. Reinstall the glove box.
18. Reconnect the window switches and install the shifter surround. Install all the other goodies.
19. Now, if you power up the car, you'll notice that the "all windows" button only operates the drivers rear window. If it does, congrats, your wiring is good. If it doesn't you have a wiring problem and need to go back and verify.
20. Now onto the coding. Using NCS, I changed the code line that basically says the car is a convertible. I forget the exact line of code, but I can look it up and edit this post later.
Congrats, you're done! Enjoy your new mod! :biggrin
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1viQ05YL9w&feature=youtu.be