TigerTater
08-05-2014, 03:40 PM
So everyone wants to be able to run headers without CEL, and also be OBDII ready for inspection sticker purposes.
-DISCLAIMER: this does not fix the CATLESS headers for SMOG purposes, if your state does SMOG obviously this will not help. This is only for states who do OBDII readiness, and to fix the CEL associated with installing headers WITHOUT having a tune to do so.
-First step is buy an LC2, (the original wide-band controller is an LC1, but has been phased out); they can be purchased from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-Digital-Wideband-Controller/dp/B00FFTAJPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407282374&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2
-Included is the controller, and all associated hardware, you will need to purchase a serial port to USB converter to be able to program the controller via your PC purchase here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECUEO06/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-The LC1 has different connections coming out
brown/yellow- analog,signals wires
red-power
black-ground
O2 sensor hook ups
serial 1,2-for programming purposes
This is the wiring diagram for the whole setup-
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/y3yvydet.jpg
You will have to find drivers to get this converter to work..I have windows 7 bootcamped on my macbook; used this driver: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/yje9yru8.jpg
-Next thing you want to do is to gather other misc. supplies, such as wire (18ga) wire clamps (T-connectors, clips to make ground lines), inline fuse (12v 7amp), solder/iron (I strongly recommend soldering the connections if you are capable), heat shrink tubing, pliers, wire strippers, electrical tape, and lastly (2) 10 watt 50 ohm resistors ( I bought the ceramic ones from radioshack)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/yqe2y7aj.jpg
-Next you want to take the engine covers off, ECU covers off, cabin air filter and the piece attached to firewall, disconnect battery also
-Get the car up on jack stands or however you want to remove the engine plate to gain access to the headers/O2 sensors
-Remove the O2 sensor you can get to, or remove both and plug the hole of one of them, leave the bung hole (beevis) that is easiest to access open for the new O2 sensor to go into
-Sorry no pics; self explanatory
-Now examine the O2 sensors next to the fuel rails; the ones we are working on are the round sensors (4 wire); when we splice into them you will be splicing into the wires not on the colored side, but on the white/black/grey side
-So this will take a huge leap of faith, but you will want to trace the grey/black/white O2 sensor wires back towards the firewall as far as you can, should be close to 16-18" of wire after the connection point to the plug, now cut them, yes thats what I said, but just make sure you have enough of wire before you do
-You can now disconnect the plugs and the newly made wire ends and bring to your workbench
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/gane6y5e.jpg
-Next we will be accessing a 'switched' 12v power source in the ECU box, the wire you want is shown, its the red wire/white stripe/yellow dots
-You will take your inline fuse and connect it to this wire using a wire tap of appropriate size, next put your inline fuse together to complete the circuit (without fuse until finished soldering everything), now connect your wire that you want to run to the drug box to the other side of the inline fuse
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/e9a5a4up.jpg
- We want to run the power wire to the drug bin, I ran it with through the wire holder that runs above the engine covers
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/a2aseda2.jpg
-There is a grommet that is in the drug bin that you can pop out to gain access, you will have to ream some of the firewall material, there is also a piece of rubber above and to the left of that, I got a drill and opened that up so I could run the plug for the new O2 sensor through there.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/y5eheze9.jpg
-You will now need to create a ground point, I used the stud that you would use to jump your car off, its a nut that can be removed and a round wire connector used to solder the grounds too
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/qu8egy8e.jpg
-Now you should go to your workbench and add about 12" of wire to all the connections to be made
-Sorry no pics, it was hot and I wanted to finish; add wire to the yellow/brown wires coming from LC2, add wire to black ground wire from LC2
-You will also want to add wire to your old O2 sensor harness's; you will add wire to all the wires (white, black grey)
-Now you will want to make your heater circuits, (the O2 sensors heat the sensors so they can sense changes in temp, you will solder the resistors in between the 2 white wires as shown below), I mounted mine to a heat sink I had lying around from an old radio, I then fastened this to the drug bin firewall, now it will get hot when its running thats why the heat sink is a good idea IMO
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/py2a9ehu.jpg
-Now you should take your new O2 sensor wire and run it down the back of the firewall avoiding the headers to the bottom of the car; do not install the O2 sensor yet, as you have to calibrate it before starting
-Take your extended wire loom O2 sensors and your LC2 and bring it back to the car; now time to assemble it all, make your connections as shown in above diagram; you will want to run the O2 sensor wires from engine side through the grommet hole into the drug bin before soldering them to the resistors; then solder up your positive + power lead from ECU tap site, and solder your ground in from LC2 to the ground point; From the O2 sensor wires you will want to solder the grey wires (they are the ground wires of the O2 sensors) to the ground point, and lastly connect the yellow wire from LC2 to one of the black wires of O2 sensors, and the brown wire to the black wire of the second O2 sensor
-Lots of connections to keep straight, so take your time and make sure everything runs smooth before you solder all connections; also ensure that you have enough slack on wires coming from fuel rail area to allow engine covers to properly seat, bolt back
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/8urybumy.jpg
-Reconnect battery terminals, ground point nut, and insert fuse into fuse holder
-Lastly you will have to follow the directions in the user guid for LC2 on how to calibrate the O2 sensor to atmosphere before installing the sensor; once calibrated install the sensor in the specified location
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/pumu9ute.jpg
-I did not actually secure the LC2 to anything as it fits very nicely where the arrow shows in the corner of the drug bin pinned by the red cable; after you know its all working you can take some electrical tape and make it look neat by wrapping everything up
-Now the fun part, once everything is on an working (green lights on the LC2) connect your adapter to the serial port and open up Logworks programmer, you will need to input the settings needed specific for our cars; they are as follows:
-Once you load the software go to Analog1, select "use air-to-fuel ratio" and program in .700volts at 19:1 and .050volts at 20:1, then go to advanced and select 1/3 second delay (dont forget this step); now select Analog 2 and input the same values
:fingerscrossed Congratulations, you did it, now clear your fault codes and go drive it till your monitors are all ready.
Sorry for the lack of pictures of some steps, if any clarification is needed let me know!
Hope this helps someone, as this was very confusing when laid out on Fanatics
Sent from my iPhone 13
-DISCLAIMER: this does not fix the CATLESS headers for SMOG purposes, if your state does SMOG obviously this will not help. This is only for states who do OBDII readiness, and to fix the CEL associated with installing headers WITHOUT having a tune to do so.
-First step is buy an LC2, (the original wide-band controller is an LC1, but has been phased out); they can be purchased from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-Digital-Wideband-Controller/dp/B00FFTAJPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407282374&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2
-Included is the controller, and all associated hardware, you will need to purchase a serial port to USB converter to be able to program the controller via your PC purchase here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECUEO06/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-The LC1 has different connections coming out
brown/yellow- analog,signals wires
red-power
black-ground
O2 sensor hook ups
serial 1,2-for programming purposes
This is the wiring diagram for the whole setup-
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/y3yvydet.jpg
You will have to find drivers to get this converter to work..I have windows 7 bootcamped on my macbook; used this driver: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/yje9yru8.jpg
-Next thing you want to do is to gather other misc. supplies, such as wire (18ga) wire clamps (T-connectors, clips to make ground lines), inline fuse (12v 7amp), solder/iron (I strongly recommend soldering the connections if you are capable), heat shrink tubing, pliers, wire strippers, electrical tape, and lastly (2) 10 watt 50 ohm resistors ( I bought the ceramic ones from radioshack)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/yqe2y7aj.jpg
-Next you want to take the engine covers off, ECU covers off, cabin air filter and the piece attached to firewall, disconnect battery also
-Get the car up on jack stands or however you want to remove the engine plate to gain access to the headers/O2 sensors
-Remove the O2 sensor you can get to, or remove both and plug the hole of one of them, leave the bung hole (beevis) that is easiest to access open for the new O2 sensor to go into
-Sorry no pics; self explanatory
-Now examine the O2 sensors next to the fuel rails; the ones we are working on are the round sensors (4 wire); when we splice into them you will be splicing into the wires not on the colored side, but on the white/black/grey side
-So this will take a huge leap of faith, but you will want to trace the grey/black/white O2 sensor wires back towards the firewall as far as you can, should be close to 16-18" of wire after the connection point to the plug, now cut them, yes thats what I said, but just make sure you have enough of wire before you do
-You can now disconnect the plugs and the newly made wire ends and bring to your workbench
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/gane6y5e.jpg
-Next we will be accessing a 'switched' 12v power source in the ECU box, the wire you want is shown, its the red wire/white stripe/yellow dots
-You will take your inline fuse and connect it to this wire using a wire tap of appropriate size, next put your inline fuse together to complete the circuit (without fuse until finished soldering everything), now connect your wire that you want to run to the drug box to the other side of the inline fuse
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/e9a5a4up.jpg
- We want to run the power wire to the drug bin, I ran it with through the wire holder that runs above the engine covers
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/a2aseda2.jpg
-There is a grommet that is in the drug bin that you can pop out to gain access, you will have to ream some of the firewall material, there is also a piece of rubber above and to the left of that, I got a drill and opened that up so I could run the plug for the new O2 sensor through there.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/y5eheze9.jpg
-You will now need to create a ground point, I used the stud that you would use to jump your car off, its a nut that can be removed and a round wire connector used to solder the grounds too
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/qu8egy8e.jpg
-Now you should go to your workbench and add about 12" of wire to all the connections to be made
-Sorry no pics, it was hot and I wanted to finish; add wire to the yellow/brown wires coming from LC2, add wire to black ground wire from LC2
-You will also want to add wire to your old O2 sensor harness's; you will add wire to all the wires (white, black grey)
-Now you will want to make your heater circuits, (the O2 sensors heat the sensors so they can sense changes in temp, you will solder the resistors in between the 2 white wires as shown below), I mounted mine to a heat sink I had lying around from an old radio, I then fastened this to the drug bin firewall, now it will get hot when its running thats why the heat sink is a good idea IMO
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/py2a9ehu.jpg
-Now you should take your new O2 sensor wire and run it down the back of the firewall avoiding the headers to the bottom of the car; do not install the O2 sensor yet, as you have to calibrate it before starting
-Take your extended wire loom O2 sensors and your LC2 and bring it back to the car; now time to assemble it all, make your connections as shown in above diagram; you will want to run the O2 sensor wires from engine side through the grommet hole into the drug bin before soldering them to the resistors; then solder up your positive + power lead from ECU tap site, and solder your ground in from LC2 to the ground point; From the O2 sensor wires you will want to solder the grey wires (they are the ground wires of the O2 sensors) to the ground point, and lastly connect the yellow wire from LC2 to one of the black wires of O2 sensors, and the brown wire to the black wire of the second O2 sensor
-Lots of connections to keep straight, so take your time and make sure everything runs smooth before you solder all connections; also ensure that you have enough slack on wires coming from fuel rail area to allow engine covers to properly seat, bolt back
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/8urybumy.jpg
-Reconnect battery terminals, ground point nut, and insert fuse into fuse holder
-Lastly you will have to follow the directions in the user guid for LC2 on how to calibrate the O2 sensor to atmosphere before installing the sensor; once calibrated install the sensor in the specified location
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/pumu9ute.jpg
-I did not actually secure the LC2 to anything as it fits very nicely where the arrow shows in the corner of the drug bin pinned by the red cable; after you know its all working you can take some electrical tape and make it look neat by wrapping everything up
-Now the fun part, once everything is on an working (green lights on the LC2) connect your adapter to the serial port and open up Logworks programmer, you will need to input the settings needed specific for our cars; they are as follows:
-Once you load the software go to Analog1, select "use air-to-fuel ratio" and program in .700volts at 19:1 and .050volts at 20:1, then go to advanced and select 1/3 second delay (dont forget this step); now select Analog 2 and input the same values
:fingerscrossed Congratulations, you did it, now clear your fault codes and go drive it till your monitors are all ready.
Sorry for the lack of pictures of some steps, if any clarification is needed let me know!
Hope this helps someone, as this was very confusing when laid out on Fanatics
Sent from my iPhone 13