Tristan's Imola Sedan

[TristanHunter]

Purchased July 5, 2013 with ~122k in Peoria, IL.

6MT, imola/alcantara, black cube trim, no cold weather package or sunroof. All stock when I bought it except for an intake and being debadged.

Right after the 5 hour trip home:
http://i.imgur.com/j3ASJe9h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wzuLqC7h.jpg

The exterior was a little rough; some dings, rock chips, curb rash, a cracked rocker panel. Interior was in good shape and it was mechanically sound, though lacking a bit in preventative maintenance. I'd give the outside a 6/10 and the inside an 8/10. So I started working on it...

So far under my ownership I've done:

-VCG and spark plugs (NGK 3199)
-OFHG
-Belts and Pulleys
-Vanos seals
-Rear shocks/mounts/reinforcement
-Koni Yellow front struts/mounts/reinforcement
-Z4m offset FCABS
-BMW performance SSK + ball cup bushing
-M3 Engine Mounts
-M3 Tranny mounts
-Diff bushings
-Fresh diff fluid (redline)
-CDV delete
-Steering coupler
-M3 front sway bar + endlinks
-Rear swaybar links/bushings
-Front and rear brake pads + rotors (centric/textar)
-Intake boot
-Fuel pump
-Window tint 20%
-Cleaned ICV
-Touch up rock chips
-Front license plate delete
-Plastidip kidney and lower grilles
-New shift knob
-M3 dead pedal
-FR window regulator
-Thorough detail (interior/exterior/engine bay)

Theres probably some other stuff I'm forgetting...

Here's how it sits now:

http://i.imgur.com/YaAgnrRh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/btCeJWzh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wx1W9BJh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zjC4agbh.jpg
^^on a recent drive to Starved Rock state park

The m3 dead pedal and interior:
http://i.imgur.com/Fqs5HQ1h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/L0T5UNXh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tQBsuGKh.jpg

and the current project:
http://i.imgur.com/qC3XBnch.jpg
Refinishing a set of csl reps because I didn't like the hyperblack finish

It's come a long way since I got it -- looks and drives much better.

Plans for the very near future:

-18x8.5 square VMR Vb3 (after I paint them) and 235/40/18 Michelin PS3's
-Ground control coilover conversion (I'm thinking 400#f and 500#r)
-Alignment
-Ebay headers
-Eurocharged tune
-Paintless dent repair

I'll be using this thread to keep track of maintenance and mods from now on, so it should hopefully be updated frequently. Thanks for looking!

[Just_George]

Sunroof delete ftw! You also get my "somewhat" biased approval for Imola! :thumbsup

[theothersawyer]

Looks great!

[san]

Hi Tristan,

Looks good... Waiting for a pic with the csl reps mounted...


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[Vas]

Awesome color combo

[TristanHunter]

Thanks guys!


Hi Tristan,

Looks good... Waiting for a pic with the csl reps mounted...


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You and me both haha my 135s are thrashed so its long overdue. Should be done next week if the weather cooperates

[BMWCurves]

Awesome, car looks great! I'd be interested in hearing how you like the squared 235mm tire set up after you've had them on for a little while.

[johnrando]

Looking great, nice list of mods/upcoming work.

[cakM3]

Looking great, nice list of mods/upcoming work.

+1

Tristan, what color are you going to paint your VB3s?

[TristanHunter]

Awesome, car looks great! I'd be interested in hearing how you like the squared 235mm tire set up after you've had them on for a little while.

Thanks, I'll definitely write up a little review. I'm hoping the squared setup will get rid of some understeer without compromising rear traction too much


+1

Tristan, what color are you going to paint your VB3s?

Some kind of silver, I want them to look as stock as possible. I'm leaning toward OEM silver 144 but I think oem csl wheels have more of a hyper silver finish, so I'm kind of torn. Any suggestions?

[cakM3]

I think you're looking for diamond silver (what BBS wheels have) or hyper silver finish. I think this is the closest to the OEM finish you get. Stuart can you chime in here regarding colors?

[TristanHunter]

Yep, you're absolutely right... Duplicolor makes hyper silver in a rattle can that looks pretty close. I think it might end up looking too much like chrome though, which is why I didn't like the hyper black they were originally.

Here's an example I found: http://blog.fcpeuro.com/2014/10/17/how-to-spray-paint-alloy-wheels/

[TristanHunter]

Wheels are done!

http://i.imgur.com/viifEiil.jpg

I ended up using normal duplicolor silver wheel paint. They're a little darker than stock and they have a little more metallic, but I'd say they came out pretty good.

Also installed GC coilovers. Super happy with them. I'll post some pictures after I get the ride height dialed in

[ELCID86]

Nice job. Looking forward to more pics.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[TristanHunter]

Finally got them on.

http://i.imgur.com/z4JaxBvl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Adal9rCl.jpg?2

I ran into a bit of a problem, though... my wheel bolts and hubs (I think) are rusted pretty badly and need to be addressed. One of them was seized up so bad that I twisted off the head of the bolt trying to get it off.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Would it be sufficient to just get new bolts and not replace the hubs? Will the old hubs just make the new bolts rust?

[ELCID86]

Wheels look great. Was it the bolt hole that's rusted?


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[TristanHunter]

Wheels look great. Was it the bolt hole that's rusted?


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

Thanks! I think its the bolt holes and the bolts themselves. Tightening them feels terrible, the threads are really dry and stick in a couple places.

[ELCID86]

Maybe others here can assist. I'd lean towards replacing them.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[san]

I would replace the bolts at least and use something like anti seize to make sure they don't get stuck...


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[TristanHunter]

Maybe others here can assist. I'd lean towards replacing them.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

Yeah, I'm thinking thats probably my best bet. Changing all the hubs is pretty costly and a lot of work though, so I'd rather not if I don't need to. Then again, that would save me the hassle of removing the broken wheel bolt...


I would replace the bolts at least and use something like anti seize to make sure they don't get stuck...


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I thought about using anti seize, but I know it lubricates the threads and can change the tightening torque so I decided against it. Not sure if it actually matters though. Have you used anti seize on yours?

[san]

Yeah, I'm thinking thats probably my best bet. Changing all the hubs is pretty costly and a lot of work though, so I'd rather not if I don't need to. Then again, that would save me the hassle of removing the broken wheel bolt...



I thought about using anti seize, but I know it lubricates the threads and can change the tightening torque so I decided against it. Not sure if it actually matters though. Have you used anti seize on yours?

Yes I have... When I bought my car the bolts were quite tight, but nowhere as bad as yours... Also the wheels did not come off the hub, took a lot of effort to get them off... I used anti seize on the bolts and also applied very little where the wheels meets the hub, it's been good since then...


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[TristanHunter]

Yes I have... When I bought my car the bolts were quite tight, but nowhere as bad as yours... Also the wheels did not come off the hub, took a lot of effort to get them off... I used anti seize on the bolts and also applied very little where the wheels meets the hub, it's been good since then...


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Awesome, I'll definitely give it a try. I just didn't want to use anti seize and have to thread the bolts too far to get the right torque.

Before last winter, I wire-brushed and put anti seize between the hubs and wheels but I still had trouble getting the wheels off in the spring. Chicago winters are no joke haha

[Vas]

Probably a long shot but still have the zhp?