Critique my ZHP suspension build/refresh

[stephenkirsh]

Suspension rebuild time. Looking for a good overall package for a DD/occasional track day car. I'm not rich, nor can I do this labor own my own, so please keep that in mind.

Last year I had a front suspension inspection and found my control arms/ball joints in good condition. FCAB are currently Z4Ms replaced less than 20k ago, so ignore those two items.

I'm looking for feedback on the overall package. My goal is a well balanced daily driver with 1-2 track days a year for a driver of intermediate skill that will last a long time. I daily drive a 1995 NA Miata, so I can handle a little extra NVH, but it's still the car that the wife rides in, so it can't be like another NA Miata.

My priorities are:
1.) Reliability and longevity of parts, considering reasonable costs for somebody driving 10,000 miles per year.
2.) Balanced suspension with good feed back
3.) Comfort for a daily. Just because this #3 on the list, doesn't mean it's not important.

Shocks/Struts
Bilstein PSS via ECST or Turner

Sway Bars, F/R
Turner kit, 27mm front, 21mm rear, 4 bushings included

Front sway bar end links, pair
Hotchkins adjustable links, via ECST

Rear sway bar end links, pair
Hotchkins adjustable links, via ECST

OEM Front strut support plates, pair
Part# 51717036781

OEM front strut mount, pair
Part# 31336752735

OEM front upper and lower spring pads, pair
Part #s: 31331096664, 31331091867

Rear shock mount, pair
Turner motorsports, TSU9975100

Rear spring pad, pair
Part#: 33531094518

Rear shock gasket, pair
Part#: 33526772864

RTAB Limiters, 4 per package
ECST ES#2721244

RTAB Bushings, pair
OEM M3/Z4M #33326770786

Bump tops, pair for F and R
Front: 31302290313, Rear: 33502290348

Questions:
Are the strut/spring pads needed when buying a coil over package like Bilstein PSS?


If your part is within 10-20% of cost/performance compared to the one I have here, I'm not interested. I've done a lot of research and this is what I've settled on. If you think it's REALLY important that I use your suggestion over what I have here, then please suggest it! I don't want to get hung up in debating the stiffness of a sway bar here or a strut mount there. I've been reading those posts for years and small differences like that don't really matter to me. If you want to get that technical, go build a Spec E46 car!

If you don't see the item on my list, I don't know about it or I forgot it. Please inform me.

[slater]

first off, your list looks very good, and very comprehensive.

re: the bilstein PSS and spring pads - i would replace the lower rears, otherwise the rest are fine.

i would highly recommend the rogue RSMs (they come with reinforcement plates and are very well-built, also rebuildable), and the bimmerworld sealed spherical RTABs - especially for track use, these things will give you the feedback you want by letting the trailing arm articulate correctly. the limiters do exactly as the name suggests - limit articulation!

[NoVAphotog]

first off, your list looks very good, and very comprehensive.

re: the bilstein PSS and spring pads - i would replace the lower rears, otherwise the rest are fine.


+1

Agree with Peter on both accords. You and I will have very similar cars when you are done. 17x8.5 ARC-8's, and the Bilstein PSS. I love the PSS, don't have to mess with dampening and they handle great around town and at the track/back roads. Not too stiff, not too soft, great build quality, etc. I'm still stock in regards to sways and RTABs so I can't comment there. As much as she rolls still, I probably won't change sways. I want an OEM+/mostly stock car so any stiffer or more NVH detracts from that.

The reinforcement plates in the front are crucial, big recommendation for the Rogue Engineering Rear shock mounts instead of the reinforcement kit from Turner:

1)Double duty as mount and reinforcement 2) Never have to go into the trunk again to replace shocks as they reverse the bolts so they can be removed from outside.

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Camber-Caster-Parts/Rogue-Engineering-Rear-Shock-Mounts-E30-E36-E46_2.html

I like the way the car feels with the Z4M bushings up front, but too be honest couldn't really tell a difference. My stock ones weren't in bad shape when removed though.

[Sockethead]

I agree with the rogue engineering RSM. They seem to be the best price/function. Buy direct from Rogue to get the best pricing. Both OEM and Myle heavy duty punched through on my car.

[johnrando]

Not an expert, but :like

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[stephenkirsh]

Ok good feedback, thanks guys!

[stephenkirsh]

Ok the Rogue Engineering RSMs are here: http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogue-Engineering-Rear-Shock-Mounts-RSM-E30E36E46-Pair_p_122.html

There's an option to "add extra bushings" and the options are Street and Track. Is that to add extra bushings to rebuild in the future?

[stephenkirsh]

I got an email from RE answering the question:

"Additional bushings for future rebuild."

[sillieidiot]

You shouldn't need the lower spring pad in the front if you're going with the PSS. Only the top one since the spring has to mate with the OEM top mount. I agree with everyone with using Rogue RSMs, plus it makes so that later on when you go to the do the shocks. You don't have to rip out the trunk carpet again. You'll also need an alignment. I don't know if you added that to your costs or not. Are your tie rods good? It's a good time to do that too since you'll have to get an alignment anyways. Other than that, everything else looks fine.

[stephenkirsh]

Yea alignment is on the list but not in the spread sheet.

Tie rods are good. Haven't really seen/heard those going bad too often?

[sillieidiot]

Not really, but that's something I would tend to do with a suspension refresh. And you didn't state whether they were good or not, so I thought I would mention it. Other than that, I don't think you're missing anything else. I'd maybe do the steering coupler? Not really suspension related but it's easy to do and helps minimizes the dead zone in the steering.

[stephenkirsh]

My dad just did his coupler and feels 0 difference. My steering is fine to me.

[sillieidiot]

yeah it's only noticeable if you had a large dead zone. otherwise, there's no difference. But yeah, you're pretty much good. I can't think of anything else on the suspension that you didn't already touch on. Camber plates/rear camber arms are the only things left which you probably don't need.