Valeo Single Mass Flywheel Conversion Kit for 6spd

[Vas]

Creating this thread as a central discussion point for the Valeo Single Mass Flywheel Conversion Kit for 6spd vehicles.

Several vendors offer this kit with ECStuning being a front runner.

Kit Includes the following items at an affordable price point compared to other options when it comes to replacing the clutch.

Single-mass flywheel
Non-Self Adjusting Clutch and pressure plate
Throw out bearing
Pressure plate bolts
Flywheel bolts

Plus according to Valeo this conversion kit is set to promise OEM drive-ability, pedal feel, and a simple install.

However it seems like several members that have this kit installed have a different experience after the install.

Can those individuals that have this kit installed list the Pro's/Con's and any other opinions below?

Does this kit live up to what Valeo is promising ? Or is the price point relevant to what you get?

Should the money be spent on something like a dual-mass flywheel and a different clutch that is not self-adjusting? Or just an OE replacement the best option?

Thanks

[Reasoned1]

I put this kit on my 2005 330xi 6MT, and I like it very much. I do have to feather release a bit more to eliminate drivetrain clunking, but I chalk that up as to be expected in light of the design difference between single and dual mass flywheels. I actually like it, because I find it more "clutch-like" in that respect, but it bothers some people. I have absolutely no chatter from mine, but I've seen a couple reports of it (install issues?). A very important factor to consider is that I bought this kit for only $350 and, in that light, I am ecstatic about it (even bought a spare).

[az3579]

I do have to feather release a bit more to eliminate drivetrain clunking, but I chalk that up as to be expected in light of the design difference between single and dual mass flywheels. I actually like it, because I find it more "clutch-like" in that respect, but some people get bent out of shape about it.

Sorry man, but I have to address this statement. Expecting the smoothness and refined feeling out of a BMW is hardly "getting bent out of shape", especially when the kit is advertised as a direct replacement to the stock setup that is supposed to retain the stock driving characteristics. If it was an actual upgrade (which is it not), then perhaps I wouldn't get so "bent out of shape" about it. I understand that upgrades have downsides, but the purpose of buying this kit was so I can retain a stock level of refinement, so I essentially got all of the downsides of a lightweight flywheel with none of the upsides. Let's not forget this kit weighs the same as a stock setup.

As far as answering the original questions go. Here are the cons:
* There is a noticeable and annoying amount of chatter in my car, and I know Spenser has a similar experience in his. This chatter is present both when in gear and starting off from a stop, as well as sitting at a light in neutral with the clutch out. It doesn't always chatter, but it chatters most of the time. There are obviously exceptions to this (Peter's car did NOT chatter at all when I test drove his, which is the very reason I bought the kit, hence my frustration that I had a different experience).
* The clunking, as mentioned in Reasoned1's post. There is a lot more of it.
* When starting the car, the whole car shakes; you can feel the added harshness.

The pros:
* It feels fine to drive
* The price is right
* The flywheel will probably last a lot longer

[Reasoned1]

I also don't get any shaking of the car when starting.

[az3579]

I also don't get any shaking of the car when starting.


I wonder if these symptoms depend on factors we aren't considering. As I said, Peter's car didn't have any of these symptoms, whereas Spenser and I share some symptoms. I can't imagine what those vehicular differences would be as we're all relatively similar in model year and equipment...

[704sw]

I wonder if these symptoms depend on factors we aren't considering. As I said, Peter's car didn't have any of these symptoms, whereas Spenser and I share some symptoms. I can't imagine what those vehicular differences would be as we're all relatively similar in model year and equipment...

At this point, BP, I think my biggest concern is the lack of consistency. Of the 4 referenced here we have 2 self-installs (Peter and myself), 2 shop installs (you and Reasoned1). One of each is experiencing good results while one of each is experiencing bad results.

Yes—I have bad chatter (it’s worst when the AC is on an my foot is off the clutch). I have vibration on startup, albeit not terrible, but I didn’t have before. However I’m not experiencing any new clunking—I actually find the Valeo kit very smooth to drive, but I attribute that to being a non-SAC. Almost every bushing in my car is new, and many are M3 rubber bushings—that’s to say I don’t have any poly/delrin/solid bushings to create this vibration.

Is there such thing as a non-SAC that still uses a DMF? If so I think that’d be the winning combination.

[Vas]

At this point, BP, I think my biggest concern is the lack of consistency. Of the 4 referenced here we have 2 self-installs (Peter and myself), 2 shop installs (you and Reasoned1). One of each is experiencing good results while one of each is experiencing bad results.

Yes—I have bad chatter (it’s worst when the AC is on an my foot is off the clutch). I have vibration on startup, albeit not terrible, but I didn’t have before. However I’m not experiencing any new clunking—I actually find the Valeo kit very smooth to drive, but I attribute that to being a non-SAC. Almost every bushing in my car is new, and many are M3 rubber bushings—that’s to say I don’t have any poly/delrin/solid bushings to create this vibration.

Is there such thing as a non-SAC that still uses a DMF? If so I think that’d be the winning combination.

I bought the Valeo Kit last November and still have not got around to installing it. Price shipped from ECStuning was $389

The recent reviews have made me not proceed with doing the install but at this point I might as well install it.

Another option is a LUK dual mass flywheel and a Sach clutch kit ( non-sac ) but the cost of that is roughly $1300.

My biggest concern is the drive ability and noise on a day to day basis.

[704sw]

Well, Vas, I’d say you’ve got a 50/50 shot of it being the clutch of your dreams lol.

[Reasoned1]

I think, if you more broadly research the reviews on it, you'll find that they are generally quite good. That's why I bought it.

[az3579]

I think, if you more broadly research the reviews on it, you'll find that they are generally quite good. That's why I bought it.I think the issue is that it's hard to find relevant reviews. A lot of the people who like this kit are also ones that don't mind a little noise or are willing to sacrifice a little something, so of course they're going to leave a good review and fail to mention those things. I'd be totally cool with everything if people were all inclusive of their reviews. You'll find a lot of "it's great!" reviews but not find reasons why it's great, and lots of people don't write about every aspect of it.

User reviews are tough because people aren't really following any kind of review standard. This is why I drove all the way up to Canada to drive Peter's car to see what it was like to actually drive. The fact that the behavior is different on different cars completely baffles me.



But anyway, Vas - since you already have it, you might as well install it and see how it behaves in your car. You're probably well past any return period.

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[05Imola]

I've had this installed for about two weeks now. I'm satisfied with the purchase. The kit does chatter. It was louder when I first installed the clutch but it seems to have quieted down a bit. Still pretty loud considering its not a LWF. There are no clunks or any other odd noises. It's smoother than the stock clutch for me and the car seems more eager to rev now. Clutch does grab pretty high now but that might have just been how the install was done.

[704sw]

I've had this installed for about two weeks now. I'm satisfied with the purchase. The kit does chatter. It was louder when I first installed the clutch but it seems to have quieted down a bit. Still pretty loud considering its not a LWF. There are no clunks or any other odd noises. It's smoother than the stock clutch for me and the car seems more eager to rev now. Clutch does grab pretty high now but that might have just been how the install was done.

Funny, mine grabs incredibly low (I admit my old DMF was engaging super high, so my perceptions could be a hair skewed). I agree it’s smoother to drive, but my car sounds like an old diesel at idle, which is a very big con for me.

This line of text will be replaced in about an hour with a link to a video I took today of the chatter.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/153940533@N04/Mb0ef5

You can hear me cycle through depressing and releasing the pedal in the video. Botond confirmed his sounds just like it—his was installed by a shop, mine was installed in my garage with a great deal of swearing. I’ve pointed out these install differences multiple times because I think it’s an important independent variable in an experiment with identical results.

[ZHPizza]

I think, if you more broadly research the reviews on it, you'll find that they are generally quite good. That's why I bought it.Fwiw my Eastern Bloc transmission guy said the same thing...

"Is just like stock. Install them all the time."
"But is there like a chatter or anything?"
"Is just like stock."

[holyc0w]

Funny, mine grabs incredibly low (I admit my old DMF was engaging super high, so my perceptions could be a hair skewed). I agree it’s smoother to drive, but my car sounds like an old diesel at idle, which is a very big con for me.

This line of text will be replaced in about an hour with a link to a video I took today of the chatter.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/153940533@N04/Mb0ef5

You can hear me cycle through depressing and releasing the pedal in the video. Botond confirmed his sounds just like it—his was installed by a shop, mine was installed in my garage with a great deal of swearing. I’ve pointed out these install differences multiple times because I think it’s an important independent variable in an experiment with identical results.

Oh fudgsicles

I think there would be more swearing after installation. :(

[Reasoned1]

I am tending to gather that there may be many variables (e.g., installation, drivetrain condition, suspension condition, etc.) that impact how a new clutch performs--hence all the different results.

[az3579]

Fwiw my Eastern Bloc transmission guy said the same thing...

"Is just like stock. Install them all the time."
"But is there like a chatter or anything?"
"Is just like stock."

Interestingly, the shop that installed mine said quite the opposite. I was told they install them all the time, and that they all chatter, in various model BMWs as well, not just in the E46. I was desperate as my throwout bearing wasn't even a bearing anymore so I had to proceed with the install anyway.



As far as the reasons go, I fail to see how installation could possibly affect this. It only goes together one way. Could somebody please explain?

[704sw]

I’m sorry but I’m just not buying it. I changed one thing and my drivetrain went from being completely silent to sounding like a tin can full of marbles. Scientific method. Independent variable.

Not to mention everything drives way too friggin’ smooth for me to have even an iota of doubt that something wasn’t put together correctly.


As far as the reasons go, I fail to see how installation could possibly affect this. It only goes together one way. Could somebody please explain?

Correct. There’s only one way it goes together. If you can drive it, it was assembled correctly.

[Reasoned1]

Your shop is wrong, because mine doesn't chatter whatsoever--thank goodness, because nothing irritates me more than chatter and rattles. As far as causes, a quick google search yielded the following:

- oil contamination of the disk
- heat build-up due to excessive slippage
- bent diaphragm spring
- missing or damaged pilot bearing
- bent flywheel (possibly related to aforementioned heat build-up)
- damaged or worn out release bearing

Of course, "clunking" of the drivetrain can be caused by a bunch of other issues.

[az3579]

- oil contamination of the disk
- heat build-up due to excessive slippage
- bent diaphragm spring
- missing or damaged pilot bearing
- bent flywheel (possibly related to aforementioned heat build-up)
- damaged or worn out release bearing
.

I don't believe these are reasons it may cause such issues in a brand new installation as all of the mention parts (clutch disk, pilot bearing, flywheel, release bearing) are brand new parts included in the kit. Things like oil contamination, heat build up/slippage are also unlikely for the same reason. I don't know what you mean by "diaphragm spring".

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[Sreten]

Funny, mine grabs incredibly low (I admit my old DMF was engaging super high, so my perceptions could be a hair skewed). I agree it’s smoother to drive, but my car sounds like an old diesel at idle, which is a very big con for me.

This line of text will be replaced in about an hour with a link to a video I took today of the chatter.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/153940533@N04/Mb0ef5

You can hear me cycle through depressing and releasing the pedal in the video. Botond confirmed his sounds just like it—his was installed by a shop, mine was installed in my garage with a great deal of swearing. I’ve pointed out these install differences multiple times because I think it’s an important independent variable in an experiment with identical results.

Two manual ZHP's that I had and few others that I test drove, all around 100k miles had chatter at idle with original flywheels, but not as loud as your current one. I can see how annoying this is for you, it would drive me mad.

[Reasoned1]

Isolating a single variable is often very difficult. There are obviously many interdependent variables in play and, to make matters more complicated, multiple, marginally functional causes can stack minor defects together to create big issues. This is especially true with older, worn machines (which is part of what makes preventive maintenance so important). We'll never know the cause(s) of your particular problem until you get it fixed. Even then, you may only have addressed a sufficient number of the contributing factors involved.

[704sw]

Two manual ZHP's that I had and few others that I test drove, all around 100k miles had chatter at idle with original flywheels, but not as loud as your current one. I can see how annoying this is for you, it would drive me mad.

Luckily between the AC at full blast, and the windows up I can’t hear much outside. But come fall when I return to driving with the windows down all the time I’m going to be irked to no end.

[05Imola]

I'll be honest I changed mine because my throwout bearing was driving me crazy and whenever I engaged reverse it felt like my clutch would explode. I had a shop install it because my starter died and I didn't have time midweek to do anything. I am irked by the noise but its nowhere near as bad as your video ^^. I can't hear it with the windows up at all. Sometimes it's completely silent as well. I really can't see why there are so many different cases with chatter. Only thing I can think of is alignment (I included the tool, not sure if they used it) and torquing sequence of the flywheel. I can't imagine quality control of the actual items to vary so much.

[Reasoned1]

Alignment tool wasn't provided or needed for mine (835101). I even called Valeo to confirm.

[704sw]

I used an alignment tool but it definitely played no role. Everything would have slipped together with ease whether I used it or not.

I followed all torquing instructions from the kit’s paperwork (8 bolt star pattern, increasing torque in steps, using a quality torque wrench). This was supplemented with the BavAuto videos, which were all consistent in the information provided.

[cornercarver]

FWIW - as a data point - my OEM clutch (or maybe it's the gearbox) chatters a little when starting off in 1st. The car has 127,000 miles, and to the best of my knowledge it's the original clutch, so I'm not at all surprised there is some chatter. I'd like to do the SMF flywheel at some point so I'll be following this thread.

[Sockethead]

My theory is that the dual mass flywheel's rubber dampens the harmonics of the spinning parts of the engine in the same way the harmonic balancer does on the other end. In addition, it provides the "give" needed when starting out from a stop or shifting hard.
A sprung hub clutch with a single mass flywheel will provide the give needed but will not dampen any harmonics because the springs are metal and in the end, it's still metal to metal contact and any harmonics are transferred to the transmission.
Why some do and some don't?
Could be the front harmonic balancer has failed or other anomaly in the engine causing excessive harmonics.

I'll definitely be sticking with the dual mass flywheel after reading this thread...

[05Imola]

Small update. Installed m3 Motor and transmission mounts. Made everything a bit worse :applause I now hear the chatter when pulling off from a stop just like some others have mentioned. C'est la vie

[Vas]

I began with the tear-down and install of this kit. Will report back with my results.

[Sockethead]

I would always use an alignment tool. I've tried to install transmissions without it and it was bitch. Also, there is a good chance of damaging the pilot bearing if it's not lined up correctly

[Vas]

Kit is installed. Will report back when more miles are put on it.

Did use the clutch tool btw

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[JohnnyGraphic]

Kit is installed. Will report back when more miles are put on it.

Did use the clutch tool btw

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Looking forward to the results! Keep us posted.

[704sw]

Update: I replaced the D4 ATF with MT90, and the chatter has improved slightly. Enough for me to say it’s noticeable, but not enough to say it’s as quiet as the OEM DMF/SAC.

I do not think it’s enough of an improvement to recommend you guys/gals up north do it and then have to suffer through winter.

[az3579]

Update: I replaced the D4 ATF with MT90, and the chatter has improved slightly. Enough for me to say it’s noticeable, but not enough to say it’s as quiet as the OEM DMF/SAC.

I do not think it’s enough of an improvement to recommend you guys/gals up north do it and then have to suffer through winter.

I recently switched from AKG 95A poly diff bushings to OE Lemförder ones when I put in the LSD. All the extra drivetrain noise that was introduced to the car when I put the SMF kit in is now gone. The chatter remains, but at least all the sounds that made my car sound like a loose POS is gone. It's amazing how much the SMF kit aggravated the drivetrain's NVH levels; I had the poly bushings with my DMF setup and was perfectly content...

[704sw]

I recently switched from AKG 95A poly diff bushings to OE Lemförder ones when I put in the LSD. All the extra drivetrain noise that was introduced to the car when I put the SMF kit in is now gone. The chatter remains, but at least all the sounds that made my car sound like a loose POS is gone. It's amazing how much the SMF kit aggravated the drivetrain's NVH levels; I had the poly bushings with my DMF setup and was perfectly content...

Well shit, the only poly in my car are the rear shifter bushing and (I think, I can’t remember what all Peterman did offhand) the RTABs. All the other rubber components are fresh.

[Vas]

I have 2 bottles of MT90 but did not get a chance to do a drain/and refill yet on the car. Sketchi is still on rubber bushings ( engine/trans )but from the E46 M3

The car did develop a new sound recently that sounds like a baseball card in the spokes of a bicycle.

Soo far the kit grabs nice and is easy to drive. However some days the noise from the gearbox is annoying and makes me miss the stock set-up

[704sw]

I have 2 bottles of MT90 but did not get a chance to do a drain/and refill yet on the car. Sketchi is still on rubber bushings ( engine/trans )but from the E46 M3

The car did develop a new sound recently that sounds like a baseball card in the spokes of a bicycle.

Soo far the kit grabs nice and is easy to drive. However some days the noise from the gearbox is annoying and makes me miss the stock set-up

I have the exact same issue. It doesn’t start ticking until 2k RPM on the nose in every gear. I’ve also noticed if I apply even the slightest of pressure (as if I was merely resting my foot on the clutch pedal) the sound disappears. I’m thinking it’s either (a) the fork rattling against the metal pivot pin, or an issue with my clutch master cylinder possibly creating some kind of rattle against the fork. The reason I don’t suspect it’s the throwout bearing is because it’s absent below 2k RPM, but I’ve been wrong before.

[Vas]

I have the exact same issue. It doesn’t start ticking until 2k RPM on the nose in every gear. I’ve also noticed if I apply even the slightest of pressure (as if I was merely resting my foot on the clutch pedal) the sound disappears. I’m thinking it’s either (a) the fork rattling against the metal pivot pin, or an issue with my clutch master cylinder possibly creating some kind of rattle against the fork. The reason I don’t suspect it’s the throwout bearing is because it’s absent below 2k RPM, but I’ve been wrong before.

Well then glad to hear I am not the only one. That noise to me is more annoying then what is transmitted from the transmission.

I am also using the metal pin and the slave cylinder has 178k on it. And honestly the valeo throwout bearing looked kinda cheap so I would not toss it out of the question.

[704sw]

Well then glad to hear I am not the only one. That noise to me is more annoying then what is transmitted from the transmission.

I am also using the metal pin and the slave cylinder has 178k on it. And honestly the valeo throwout bearing looked kinda cheap so I would not toss it out of the question.

The sound is absolutely more annoying, because it’s quite loud. But the bellhousing is essentially an acoustic chamber full of nothing but air and metal pieces.

I’ll try the cylinder eventually and test it out, but I suspect it’s nothing serious because of how smoothly everything actually drives.

[Vas]

What about raising the idle to help with the noise ?


The sound is absolutely more annoying, because it’s quite loud. But the bellhousing is essentially an acoustic chamber full of nothing but air and metal pieces.

I’ll try the cylinder eventually and test it out, but I suspect it’s nothing serious because of how smoothly everything actually drives.

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[az3579]

And honestly the valeo throwout bearing looked kinda cheap so I would not toss it out of the question.

Eh? The one I got looked beefy as hell... looked like an all metal housing.

This one:
https://dyw03owr7vs3n.cloudfront.net/public/assets/products/270796/large/open-uri20170427-24935-12f5icr.?1496505735

[704sw]

Can the slave’s dowel thingy (technical term, I know) be adjusted/does it not press out as far as it ages? It almost seems like it’s not making contact with the fork when my foot is off the clutch, and the lack of pressure allows the rattling. Idk, but for $60 I’m willing to try it out—I’m tried of people looking at me weird when I’m going through the neighborhood or a parking lot.

[Thatguy_JZ]

Bumping an old thread but are those of you running this setup still satisfied with it? Any solutions to the noise or 'it is what it is'.

Also I read this flywheel isn't marketed as lightweight in any way, but is there any weight advantage to it over stock? Anyone notice quicker revs, ect.

Thanks

[Reasoned1]

I've run with mine now for about 30,000 miles... same as it was--no chatter but clunks if I release too abruptly in lower gears.

[704sw]

Bumping an old thread but are those of you running this setup still satisfied with it? Any solutions to the noise or 'it is what it is'.

Also I read this flywheel isn't marketed as lightweight in any way, but is there any weight advantage to it over stock? Anyone notice quicker revs, ect.

Thanks

Exact same weight as stock. The only reason it might feel quicker to rev is because of the rubberband feeling of a worn DMF.


I've run with mine now for about 30,000 miles... same as it was--no chatter but clunks if I release too abruptly in lower gears.

I’m only about 10k on mine and 4 track days but my opinion hasn’t changed either. I changed from D4 ATF to a heavier MT90 and it helped the chatter a little bit, but I realize that’s not an option for you guys up north.

It drives great, but really wish I’d stuck with the nylon pivot pin because I think the metal pin is the source of some of my non-idle rattling. Gonna replace the slave cylinder once it warms up to see if it helps keep better pressure on the fork.

[Thatguy_JZ]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna run MTL in my trans so I'll see how that does. Hopefully I don't need to go here yet but if it turns out my rear main is the source of my leak I'm gonna tackle it all while I'm in there. I'm at 140k on believed stock clutch. I already have some light chatter at idle that goes away when I push the clutch but it doesn't really bother me.


704sw I saw your car at the Jzilla event back in July. My friends were running a Green CRX and Marlboro livery Alfa. Your car caught my eye man, looks good!

[Reasoned1]

I'm running MTL... probably should've switched to D4. It's a little stiff when cold but loosens up in a matter of minutes. Have you tried ST205 in hopes of stopping your rear main leak?

[704sw]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna run MTL in my trans so I'll see how that does. Hopefully I don't need to go here yet but if it turns out my rear main is the source of my leak I'm gonna tackle it all while I'm in there. I'm at 140k on believed stock clutch. I already have some light chatter at idle that goes away when I push the clutch but it doesn't really bother me.


704sw I saw your car at the Jzilla event back in July. My friends were running a Green CRX and Marlboro livery Alfa. Your car caught my eye man, looks good!

Thanks! And yea definitely do it all while you’re in there. I’m still mad at myself for not replacing my starter when I did my clutch (it died a few weeks later).

The Jzilla group seems really great. I’m hoping to get to a few events with them soonish, but most of the places they run (Road Atlanta, AMP, etc.) are places I don’t think I’ll drive until I have a dedicated track car—too many concrete walls for my comfort in the Unicorn.

I’ll have to go back through my pictures from that day, I probably have some of your friends’ cars. The Marlboro livery was awesome.

[Vas]

Exact same weight as stock. The only reason it might feel quicker to rev is because of the rubberband feeling of a worn DMF.



I’m only about 10k on mine and 4 track days but my opinion hasn’t changed either. I changed from D4 ATF to a heavier MT90 and it helped the chatter a little bit, but I realize that’s not an option for you guys up north.

It drives great, but really wish I’d stuck with the nylon pivot pin because I think the metal pin is the source of some of my non-idle rattling. Gonna replace the slave cylinder once it warms up to see if it helps keep better pressure on the fork.What noise do you think the metal pin is responsible for ?

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[704sw]

What noise do you think the metal pin is responsible for ?

A metal on metal rattle that appears at exactly 2000rpm in every gear. It hasn’t gotten any worse with more miles, the pedal feels fine, and it doesn’t change in pitch/speed as the revs go up, which is why I don’t think it’s the throwout bearing.

If I put a very slight amount of pressure on the clutch pedal it goes away (basically holding the fork tightly against the pivot pin), which is why I’m going to try changing the slave cylinder. My very unscientific guess (I’m literally spitballing here) is the part circled in green below is retracting too far into the unit when the pedal is released:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190303/57b9c844fce70c4e8192715b65048502.jpg

[az3579]

I doubt the pivot pin is causing you any noise, Spenser.


Bumping an old thread but are those of you running this setup still satisfied with it?

My answer is a firm 'no'. Never was, never will be. If I was ballin', I'd pay to have it replaced with a dual-mass setup, but it's 'fine'. Gets the job done, even if I don't like the feel as much.

[704sw]

I doubt the pivot pin is causing you any noise, Spenser.

Any thoughts on what it might be?

[Vas]

Any thoughts on what it might be?I don't have that noise but more of a card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Happens around 2000rpm.

Spring time I'll be pulling the kit and going back to OE.

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[ELCID86]

I don't have that noise but more of a card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Happens around 2000rpm.

Spring time I'll be pulling the kit and going back to OE.

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[emoji33][emoji106]

[704sw]

I don't have that noise but more of a card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Happens around 2000rpm.

Spring time I'll be pulling the kit and going back to OE.

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Okay so that’s exactly what I’m experiencing, you’ve just described it better.

If you apply slight pressure to the clutch pedal does the noise disappear?

[az3579]

Hmm, I never noticed this sound before. I'll have to take the ZHP for a drive and have a listen.

Can you hear it with the windows up? It's mighty cold out....... [emoji6]

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[704sw]

Hmm, I never noticed this sound before. I'll have to take the ZHP for a drive and have a listen.

Can you hear it with the windows up? It's mighty cold out....... [emoji6]

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You might not be able to hear it with the windows up with your Corsa exhaust. If you can drive by some kind of acoustic barrier (a wall, even tightly spaced shrubbery) it’ll be easier to hear from my experience.

[Vas]

I hear it with the windows up or down but more noticeable if the sound bounce off a flat surface like a wall.

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[az3579]

(a wall, even tightly spaced shrubbery) it’ll be easier to hear from my experience.

34825



I have a Jersey barrier on the onramp to the highway, so I'll listen to it tomorrow morning. I'm genuinely curious now, since I have heard noises that I didn't recognize occasionally. I just can't remember what they sound like because it happens so seldomly.

[704sw]

34825



I have a Jersey barrier on the onramp to the highway, so I'll listen to it tomorrow morning. I'm genuinely curious now, since I have heard noises that I didn't recognize occasionally. I just can't remember what they sound like because it happens so seldomly.

Dammit now I need to watch that.

Jersey barrier should do it. Mine comes on at exactly 2k.

1999? Quiet.
2001? TICKTICKTICKTICKTICKTICK

[az3579]

Dammit now I need to watch that.

Jersey barrier should do it. Mine comes on at exactly 2k.

1999? Quiet.
2001? TICKTICKTICKTICKTICKTICK


Are you sure it's not the infamous VANOS ring rattle? Harmless, but is known to start around 2k and sound similar to that sound you describe.

[704sw]

Are you sure it's not the infamous VANOS ring rattle? Harmless, but is known to start around 2k and sound similar to that sound you describe.

I can’t be 100% sure, but I’m fairly confident it isn’t the Vanos rattle because it doesn’t occur if I’m just revving. It only happens if the car is in motion. Plus it didn’t start until after the clutch was replaced.

However, I’ll admit I didn’t buy the anti-rattle pieces when we replaced my Vanos seals.