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View Full Version : Double DIY: Rear Window Shelf Refurbish & Rattle Solution doityourself



Hermes
09-14-2011, 11:28 PM
I'm gonna start this out by saying that I took a lot of pictures since I know some people will get stuck without them. This is probably an all day job as you might get distracted and start cleaning your car since you're gonna see parts of it you probably won't ever see again. There are other ways to fix the rattle (primarily the tennis ball technique) but that's not good enough for me. I want it done right the first time so there doesn't need to be a second time. If your rear shelf (as BMW apparently calls it, not a rear deck, parcel shelf, hat tray, etc.) has been sun-bleached a blue/purple color this is the time to fix that too since in order to do get that out it requires a lot of stuff to be removed, mainly the things that are rattling.

Oh, one last thing before I start. There might be a few steps that are coupe specific due to the way the rear windows open. It shouldn't be too different for a 4dr but I could be wrong (also some sedans don't have fold down rear seats).

With the exception of a few things, you're basically gonna make the back of your car look like this diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/u/b/115.png

Here is a list of what each part # on this diagram is called as I will be referring to them by that name:


No. Description
01 Rear Window Shelf
02 Grid
03 Hex head screw
04 Prestol Cage
05 Clip
06 Through-Loading Cross Member Trim
07 Cover, belt outlet
08 Head Rest Cover
09 Cover, loudspeaker top hi-fi Harman Kardon
10 Cover, child protection
11 Cover, loudspeaker left
12 Cover
For vehicles with Sun-blind, rear
13 Roller sun shield
14 Hex head screw
For vehicles with Sun-blind, rear
15 Drive Sun Blind
16 Covering left
17 Expanding Rivet


This is the list of tools/supplies you will need:
T-25 Torx driver for C-pillar
T-50 Torx driver for seat belt anchor
7mm socket for grid
8mm socket for speakers
13mm socket for tether points on the shelf
flathead screwdriver
Narrow punch (or screwdriver from eyeglass kit)
Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric color HVP106 (flat black)
some sort of batting/insulation/cotton (I used polyester batting from a quilt shop)
double sided indoor mounting tape


First, here's some before shots so you kinda see the faded shelf. You can't really tell but the silver part of the speaker cover where it says Harmon Kardon is like a concrete color gray, not shiny at all.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000316.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000317.jpg




STEP 1: REMOVE BACK SEAT
there are 2 points where its held in place, just use some muscle and yank it up

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000320.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000322.jpg
see the to red spots in the carpeting? That's where you grab

now you need to undo the seatbelts but the bolt that holds it in place is under the side bolsters

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000328.jpg
can you see it?

well since you're not gonna be able to get to it you need to remove whats in your way




STEP 2: REMOVE BOLSTERS
At the top under the seat belt is a clip that you need to remove first

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000330.jpg

using your narrow punch, push the center circle in just a little so it releases. you can then just pull the whole thing out. Should look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000331.jpg

You need to take off one last clip that's on the side where the pushrod for the window is, then it should just come out.

What it looks like when you take it off and the piece that I was talking about above:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000332.jpg

Now you can take off the bolsters, just start at the bottom and work your way to the top, lift up and out to get the top off.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000333.jpg

Next, we return to the seatbelt which is still attached. Using your T-50 torx remove the bolts.





STEP 3: REMOVE C-PILLAR
First you have to remove the lights, pry them out and unplug. Try to be careful and not break them.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000337.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000336.jpg

Behind the light is a screw you need to take out, use your T-25 torx driver.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000338.jpg

OK- be careful now, I broke a few clips and had to go pick up some more from the dealer on this part. The clips that hold it in place are at the top where the C-Pillar meets the headliner. You just have to pull it out to undo the clips, then up to pull out the cover.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000339.jpg

Your car should now look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000341.jpg

VERY IMPORTANT!!! Before you lay the rear seats down, put a pile of towels down about the same thickness as the seat bottom. If you don't remember to do this you're gonna have a huge dent if not a cut in your leather. Don't say I didn't warn you!
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000373.jpg





STEP 4: REMOVE SPEAKERS & SUB
We have now come to one of the sources of issue. Take out whichever you want first, it makes not difference.

Pry of speaker covers
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000342.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000343.jpg

Take out the foam ring, put aside. Using a 8mm socket, undo the speaker itself.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000344.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000345.jpg

The speaker sits in a basket, make sure you just take the speaker out and not the basket yet.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000349.jpg

To take out the basket you have to undo 3 clips, then it just pops out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000355.jpg

At this point I also took out the plastic trim piece around the seatbelt, just pry it up and off. There's a slot on the bottom so you can take it off the belt.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000356.jpg


Now, onto the sub. It's held in by 4 screws, 2 clips and 2 hooks.

Take out 4 screws (mine only had 2 for some reason), 2 in 'front', 1 on each side.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000416.jpg

I'm assuming you're laying on your back in the trunk, your feet in the car. Pull 'up' on the sub toward the trunk, the hooks in the back should fall out of their slots and the sub should only be held in by 2 clips, right next to where the screws in the front were (they look green in the pic). Just pull and it should come out. There should only be the cable left, unhook and put aside.





STEP 5: REMOVE TETHER POINTS FROM REAR SHELF
Using the 13mm socket, undo and remove the 3 tether points (pull everything out but don't lose anything). Put aside.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000353.jpg





STEP 6: REMOVE THROUGH-LOADING CROSS MEMBER TRIM (that black plastic piece)

There are 4 expanding rivets you need to remove.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000359.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000358.jpg
Using your narrow punch, push them all the way through. They should fall all the way and end up on the trunk floor. Just pull the other part up through the top

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000364.jpg
You can see the other side of the rivet through this gap. All 4 should be placed near a gap like this.

It's clipped in so just pry it off, your car should now look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000366.jpg





STEP 7: REMOVE REAR SHELF
ok, so I got to this point and hadn't removed the sub yet and was sitting there cursing my car cause I couldn't find what was hold it in still. Right in the middle of where the sub was is 1 screw that needs to be removed. I think it was 8mm but I don't remember.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000369.jpg

In this picture you can see how much space there is between the trunk roof and the shelf and the lack of good padding, part of the reason for the rattle.

Now it should come out easily. Lift up from the front and pull towards you. You might have to twist to get it around stuff but it comes out easy.

Now its time to really see how discolored it is. This is what mine looked like:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

This is what you should have out of your car so far:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000372.jpg





STEP 8: REMOVE GRID

This one is held in by 4 screws. Use 7mm socket to remove.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000384.jpg

Before you can pull it out completely the nav antenna needs to be unclipped. Just leave it on the foam stuff since it's wired in.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000385.jpg






OK - so now everything is out. At this point you may want to clean your car up a little as the back window is completely available. I cleaned it and put some rainx anti-fog while I was at this point.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000405.jpg

What your back shelf should now look like:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000393.jpg

Ok, the thing with the tennis ball trick, stuffing t-shirts, etc., is they only try to solve one part of the rattle problem. Part of the problem is the grid that we just removed. If you see the point where it makes contact with my car, it has been there so long that it is actually rubbing the paint away, adding to the noise when I drive.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000401.jpg





Now, for the repairs:

You might want to start with the painting of the shelf as that will take the longest time.

I used 1 can for the rear shelf and the 2 C-Pillars. I think that should be more than enough, just put a lot of thin coats and you should be good.

BEFORE:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

AFTER:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000382.jpg

Earlier I mentioned the crappy state of my speaker covers, well I decided to use the leftover can of Rustoleum Black Enamel that I did my front bumper grid with to refinish them. I like how it turned out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000390.jpg

What it will look like in my car:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000396.jpg




Now, back to the rattle... to fix the grid part of I used the double sided mounting tape but only used 1 sticky side. Cut small pieces and laid them out over the contact points for the grid.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000403.jpg


there's 12 total strips you need to place
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000402.jpg

Now, reattach the grid (4 screws, 7mm socket). It's gonna be a little tough to wrestle in place now with the strips but you'll get it eventually.

Next, we need to lay down something as padding to solve the major rattle. This is basically what you're doing with the tennis ball fix but we're going way more crazy with it. I used polyester batting from a quilt shop as my padding. (Like an idiot I bought a 120in x 120in piece so if anybody in the SD area wants to do this hit me up and I have some for you)


The solutions to the rattle:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000399.jpg


Mine came in a huge yet thin sheet so I cut a stripe across the top and took it to the car so I could then cut what I needed for each spot.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000404.jpg


Make sure you don't cover up the holes for the speakers and the spot where the screw attaches to the shelf (the one that was hidden by the sub). I folded and placed some until I got it filled up as much as I thought I needed. Mine looked like this after I thought it was ready:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000406.jpg



Now it's time for the nice clean shelf to return.
Before:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

After:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000407.jpg



To put it back just do the opposite of how you took it out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000408.jpg


Now you put the black plastic piece back (Through-Loading Cross Member Trim from step 6)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000409.jpg


Reinsert speaker basket and tether points
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000410.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000411.jpg



Reinsert speakers and speaker covers
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000412.jpg



http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000418.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000420.jpg
It looks so much better in black...



Reattach Sub (I added a little padding inside the box. It might not make sense but this actually tricks the speakers into thinking they're in a bigger box)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000413.jpg


Replace C-Pillars & Lights, be careful how you put it in. It needs to slide in a certain way and also make sure you line up the clips at the top with the holes they go in before you push on them or you can crack them (even if you do they're only like $0.70 at the dealer but that means you need to go and get them).
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000421.jpg

I apparently didn't do it exactly correct at first as you can see in this pic, but you can just slide something in there to fix the other fabric. This pic also clearly shows the difference in color. I'm pretty sure the fabric is actually antracite but flat black works fine. Unless you're really looking you wouldn't even know.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000424.jpg

Reattach seat belt
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000333.jpg

Reattach seat bolsters & plastic thing on top where motor for the window/seatbelt are.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000422.jpg

**Two things with this last part, when you're taking out the bolsters you could crack the mounting point at the top and when you put it back you could crack the clip that holds it in at the bottom. Sorry I forgot to take a picture of the back of the bolster but you'll understand once you take yours out and look at it. As long as the top one wasn't broke you can probably just put the seat bottom in and that will hold it in place. I broke the bottom point on one of mine so I'm gonna have to make a trip to the salvage yard to see if I can find a donor car to get the plastic backing.

Put your seat bottom in the car and enjoy your rattle free stereo!

Final Results:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000423.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/09198031.jpg

kayger12
09-15-2011, 12:41 AM
Excellent, excellent write up.

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

static667
09-15-2011, 02:06 AM
Oh hell yeah! I'm subscribing to this awesome write up as I need to do this to mine. Very nice work, Hermes.

danewilson77
09-15-2011, 02:55 AM
Great contribution! You're a PTP baby!

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

cakM3
09-15-2011, 03:47 AM
Great thread Hermes :thumbsup

jreyes19
09-15-2011, 03:51 AM
wow thank you for making public records of this information pictorally lol

awesome work although i have the sedan, besides the non-foldable seats and the huge metal wall i have, i believe everything else would be the same
also what did the rattle sound like, or when would it happen

Im not sure what a PTP is but if it is good the yes you are one :)

thank you for taking the time to do this

webster
09-15-2011, 05:23 AM
Prime time player?

Great write-up!

WOLFN8TR
09-15-2011, 05:31 AM
That seriously is the most detailed DIY I have ever seen! Excellent bro. I need to do this and repair the felt that is coming off my side pillars.
One question thou, on a hot day with the windows up won't you smell that spray paint?

zj96sc
09-15-2011, 05:40 AM
Did the vinyl/fabric leave your rear deck feeling crusty? I did this on my E30 and I wasn't happy with the finished texture. I had read some people use a stiff bristle brush to loosen the pile back up after spraying, but that started to remove color when I tried it.

It was stiff and crusty but it looked good though so I just put it back in. Nobody is going to be touching it anyway.

mild hijack, just another example of the success you can have in restoring the appearance of a parcel shelf (22 years old here...)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/e30/IMG_3128.jpg

Hermes
09-15-2011, 07:15 AM
Thanks everybody.


Did the vinyl/fabric leave your rear deck feeling crusty? I did this on my E30 and I wasn't happy with the finished texture. I had read some people use a stiff bristle brush to loosen the pile back up after spraying, but that started to remove color when I tried it.

It was stiff and crusty but it looked good though so I just put it back in. Nobody is going to be touching it anyway.

mild hijack, just another example of the success you can have in restoring the appearance of a parcel shelf (22 years old here...)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/e30/IMG_3128.jpg

I agree, it is a little crusty. I really don't like the stupid fabric liner anyways. One day I think I'm gonna redo all the pillars, headliner and rear shelf in some alcantara à la the L6/7's but for now at least it looks good

jayjay_dee
09-15-2011, 07:36 AM
very and nice and detailed DIY...

someone can definetly make use of this DIY in the future...

Hornung418
09-15-2011, 09:33 AM
Nice! A solid win for the coupe crowd.

Hermes
09-15-2011, 08:05 PM
rest of the photos posted...

Ryans323i
09-16-2011, 06:59 AM
Perfect write up. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

Great work too, it looks great!

I painted my headliner and pillars black (from tan) using the Duplicolor Vinyl/Fabric spray too. Took me 4 cans, and I used heavy coats. It's amazing how much they soak up the paint. They're a little "crusty" too but like zj96sc said, no one should be touching them anyways! That was over a year ago, and everything still looks the same. It's held up perfectly.

Hermes
09-16-2011, 09:29 AM
anytime. I thought by giving step by step w/pics people wouldnt get confused. I think there will be a point in the future that I change them all out for alcantara

tripod06
09-21-2011, 10:38 AM
this is the sexiest DIY thread i have ever read. god i need to go change myself now. Also, i may be hitting you up if you're ever available to help me out with this! ahaha

Hermes
09-21-2011, 10:50 AM
I got extra padding for you

tripod06
09-21-2011, 11:04 AM
Thats what she said! haha jk

cool man! works for me. i'll keep you informed!

Hermes
09-21-2011, 11:11 AM
That seriously is the most detailed DIY I have ever seen! Excellent bro. I need to do this and repair the felt that is coming off my side pillars.
One question thou, on a hot day with the windows up won't you smell that spray paint?

Luckily my c pillars are still in good shape, just were faded. As for smell, there is none. The stuff is more like a dye than paint.

CERF04ZHP
09-21-2011, 08:08 PM
Hermes, thanks for taking the time to write that up, big help. Now, to find the time to do it (modified for a saloooon)!

Gordo_GT
09-21-2011, 08:59 PM
10/10 on the write up. Very well done. I remember the rattle was killing me when I got car. I just dropped the rear speakers/subs like you did and filled that same foam just like you did and all my car has been rattle free for 1.5+ years now

Kudos
10-01-2011, 08:26 AM
If we are just removing the rattle and not painting the rear deck, can we go without removing the seats and just putting in padding?

Hermes
10-01-2011, 08:33 AM
I don't think so, you need the shelf out to pull the grid at the back which contributes to the rattle. I tried but couldnt find any directions to take the shelf out that didnt involve all these steps. Some steps might need to be adjusted for 4dr/non folding seats but if your car is set up like mine these are the directions

WOLFN8TR
10-01-2011, 10:22 AM
My car had the BMW plastic bracket installed but not bolted down. After installing the bolt I stuffed three tennis balls inside and "NO" more rattles. Maybe it's different if you don't already have the plastic bracket epoxied to the rear shelf up under the sub box.

Hermes
10-01-2011, 10:33 AM
True, the tennis balls do fix most of the rattle. You could do that way too, I just went all out on mine

WOLFN8TR
10-01-2011, 10:53 AM
True, the tennis balls do fix most of the rattle. You could do that way too, I just went all out on mine

Ya no doubt, excellent job by the way. I need to do this but not sure if I have the patience or time....:dunno

s!ke
01-19-2012, 01:12 AM
Nice write up. I am actually about to do this on my e36. But just a tip. if you tint your rear window you will never have this problem. :) My e46 has 100k miles and a tinted back window, and it still looks black as night. :) Plus tinting looks so much better.

Hermes
01-19-2012, 01:44 AM
Nice write up. I am actually about to do this on my e36. But just a tip. if you tint your rear window you will never have this problem. :) My e46 has 100k miles and a tinted back window, and it still looks black as night. :) Plus tinting looks so much better.

Thanks! True, tint does definitely solve the fading issue (and looks better) but mine was already faded when I bought the car three years ago. I will be eventually getting ceramic tint for my car but at least it's looking clean again. Also, now that I painted the speaker grills black there is no longer a silver square reflected in my rear window.

s!ke
01-19-2012, 02:23 AM
Thanks! True, tint does definitely solve the fading issue (and looks better) but mine was already faded when I bought the car three years ago. I will be eventually getting ceramic tint for my car but at least it's looking clean again. Also, now that I painted the speaker grills black there is no longer a silver square reflected in my rear window.

LOL I totally agree, I only sometimes noticed the silver square. Bottom line: GET TINTED!

spencers
03-17-2012, 05:10 PM
Just finished. Man, I've put this off for so long! Glad to finally cross it off the list.

Before... You can see the area that was covered by the speaker grill is still black!
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2620/img0688lo.jpg

After
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7766/img0690l.jpg

danewilson77
03-17-2012, 06:09 PM
Looks great!

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

WOLFN8TR
03-17-2012, 06:31 PM
Wow it sure was faded. Looks Good!

danewilson77
03-18-2012, 06:39 PM
Just finished. Man, I've put this off for so long! Glad to finally cross it off the list.

Before... You can see the area that was covered by the speaker grill is still black!
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2620/img0688lo.jpg

After
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7766/img0690l.jpg

Spence... What paint did you use?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

spencers
03-18-2012, 08:00 PM
Rustoleum vinyl and carpet. Flat black. 5 coats, IIRC

Hornung418
03-18-2012, 08:22 PM
Is it rough after drying?

danewilson77
03-19-2012, 05:48 AM
Is it rough after drying?

Yes......I assume it is.....but who ever touches that sheet back there?

09mageec
02-20-2013, 05:46 PM
This is great! SOOOOO glad I came across this!

HokieZHP
04-03-2013, 01:01 AM
So I'm thinking I'm going to do this on my car this weekend as the rattle is driving me absolutely insane. Are there any major differences doing this on a sedan compared to a coupe?

Any other tips you all have for me from doing this yourselves.

static667
04-03-2013, 02:07 AM
So I'm thinking I'm going to do this on my car this weekend as the rattle is driving me absolutely insane. Are there any major differences doing this on a sedan compared to a coupe?

Any other tips you all have for me from doing this yourselves.

Its all pretty straight forward. Just make sure you get the plastic trim piece good and snug cause mine started rattling again.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

Tnhl1989
04-03-2013, 02:57 AM
I already did it however never had a rattle. Pretty straight forward overall though.

HokieZHP
04-03-2013, 03:59 AM
Thanks for the info guys!

WOLFN8TR
02-20-2014, 06:40 PM
Bump...

feytr
03-12-2014, 08:58 PM
I was going to ask today before research in forum, thank you very much my friend.

How long did it take ?



I'm gonna start this out by saying that I took a lot of pictures since I know some people will get stuck without them. This is probably an all day job as you might get distracted and start cleaning your car since you're gonna see parts of it you probably won't ever see again. There are other ways to fix the rattle (primarily the tennis ball technique) but that's not good enough for me. I want it done right the first time so there doesn't need to be a second time. If your rear shelf (as BMW apparently calls it, not a rear deck, parcel shelf, hat tray, etc.) has been sun-bleached a blue/purple color this is the time to fix that too since in order to do get that out it requires a lot of stuff to be removed, mainly the things that are rattling.

Oh, one last thing before I start. There might be a few steps that are coupe specific due to the way the rear windows open. It shouldn't be too different for a 4dr but I could be wrong (also some sedans don't have fold down rear seats).

With the exception of a few things, you're basically gonna make the back of your car look like this diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/u/b/115.png

Here is a list of what each part # on this diagram is called as I will be referring to them by that name:




This is the list of tools/supplies you will need:
T-25 Torx driver for C-pillar
T-50 Torx driver for seat belt anchor
7mm socket for grid
8mm socket for speakers
13mm socket for tether points on the shelf
flathead screwdriver
Narrow punch (or screwdriver from eyeglass kit)
Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric color HVP106 (flat black)
some sort of batting/insulation/cotton (I used polyester batting from a quilt shop)
double sided indoor mounting tape


First, here's some before shots so you kinda see the faded shelf. You can't really tell but the silver part of the speaker cover where it says Harmon Kardon is like a concrete color gray, not shiny at all.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000316.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000317.jpg




STEP 1: REMOVE BACK SEAT
there are 2 points where its held in place, just use some muscle and yank it up

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000320.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000322.jpg
see the to red spots in the carpeting? That's where you grab

now you need to undo the seatbelts but the bolt that holds it in place is under the side bolsters

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000328.jpg
can you see it?

well since you're not gonna be able to get to it you need to remove whats in your way




STEP 2: REMOVE BOLSTERS
At the top under the seat belt is a clip that you need to remove first

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000330.jpg

using your narrow punch, push the center circle in just a little so it releases. you can then just pull the whole thing out. Should look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000331.jpg

You need to take off one last clip that's on the side where the pushrod for the window is, then it should just come out.

What it looks like when you take it off and the piece that I was talking about above:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000332.jpg

Now you can take off the bolsters, just start at the bottom and work your way to the top, lift up and out to get the top off.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000333.jpg

Next, we return to the seatbelt which is still attached. Using your T-50 torx remove the bolts.





STEP 3: REMOVE C-PILLAR
First you have to remove the lights, pry them out and unplug. Try to be careful and not break them.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000337.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000336.jpg

Behind the light is a screw you need to take out, use your T-25 torx driver.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000338.jpg

OK- be careful now, I broke a few clips and had to go pick up some more from the dealer on this part. The clips that hold it in place are at the top where the C-Pillar meets the headliner. You just have to pull it out to undo the clips, then up to pull out the cover.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000339.jpg

Your car should now look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000341.jpg

VERY IMPORTANT!!! Before you lay the rear seats down, put a pile of towels down about the same thickness as the seat bottom. If you don't remember to do this you're gonna have a huge dent if not a cut in your leather. Don't say I didn't warn you!
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000373.jpg





STEP 4: REMOVE SPEAKERS & SUB
We have now come to one of the sources of issue. Take out whichever you want first, it makes not difference.

Pry of speaker covers
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000342.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000343.jpg

Take out the foam ring, put aside. Using a 8mm socket, undo the speaker itself.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000344.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000345.jpg

The speaker sits in a basket, make sure you just take the speaker out and not the basket yet.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000349.jpg

To take out the basket you have to undo 3 clips, then it just pops out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000355.jpg

At this point I also took out the plastic trim piece around the seatbelt, just pry it up and off. There's a slot on the bottom so you can take it off the belt.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000356.jpg


Now, onto the sub. It's held in by 4 screws, 2 clips and 2 hooks.

Take out 4 screws (mine only had 2 for some reason), 2 in 'front', 1 on each side.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000416.jpg

I'm assuming you're laying on your back in the trunk, your feet in the car. Pull 'up' on the sub toward the trunk, the hooks in the back should fall out of their slots and the sub should only be held in by 2 clips, right next to where the screws in the front were (they look green in the pic). Just pull and it should come out. There should only be the cable left, unhook and put aside.





STEP 5: REMOVE TETHER POINTS FROM REAR SHELF
Using the 13mm socket, undo and remove the 3 tether points (pull everything out but don't lose anything). Put aside.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000353.jpg





STEP 6: REMOVE THROUGH-LOADING CROSS MEMBER TRIM (that black plastic piece)

There are 4 expanding rivets you need to remove.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000359.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000358.jpg
Using your narrow punch, push them all the way through. They should fall all the way and end up on the trunk floor. Just pull the other part up through the top

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000364.jpg
You can see the other side of the rivet through this gap. All 4 should be placed near a gap like this.

It's clipped in so just pry it off, your car should now look like this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000366.jpg





STEP 7: REMOVE REAR SHELF
ok, so I got to this point and hadn't removed the sub yet and was sitting there cursing my car cause I couldn't find what was hold it in still. Right in the middle of where the sub was is 1 screw that needs to be removed. I think it was 8mm but I don't remember.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000369.jpg

In this picture you can see how much space there is between the trunk roof and the shelf and the lack of good padding, part of the reason for the rattle.

Now it should come out easily. Lift up from the front and pull towards you. You might have to twist to get it around stuff but it comes out easy.

Now its time to really see how discolored it is. This is what mine looked like:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

This is what you should have out of your car so far:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000372.jpg





STEP 8: REMOVE GRID

This one is held in by 4 screws. Use 7mm socket to remove.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000384.jpg

Before you can pull it out completely the nav antenna needs to be unclipped. Just leave it on the foam stuff since it's wired in.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000385.jpg






OK - so now everything is out. At this point you may want to clean your car up a little as the back window is completely available. I cleaned it and put some rainx anti-fog while I was at this point.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000405.jpg

What your back shelf should now look like:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000393.jpg

Ok, the thing with the tennis ball trick, stuffing t-shirts, etc., is they only try to solve one part of the rattle problem. Part of the problem is the grid that we just removed. If you see the point where it makes contact with my car, it has been there so long that it is actually rubbing the paint away, adding to the noise when I drive.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000401.jpg





Now, for the repairs:

You might want to start with the painting of the shelf as that will take the longest time.

I used 1 can for the rear shelf and the 2 C-Pillars. I think that should be more than enough, just put a lot of thin coats and you should be good.

BEFORE:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

AFTER:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000382.jpg

Earlier I mentioned the crappy state of my speaker covers, well I decided to use the leftover can of Rustoleum Black Enamel that I did my front bumper grid with to refinish them. I like how it turned out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000390.jpg

What it will look like in my car:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000396.jpg




Now, back to the rattle... to fix the grid part of I used the double sided mounting tape but only used 1 sticky side. Cut small pieces and laid them out over the contact points for the grid.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000403.jpg


there's 12 total strips you need to place
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000402.jpg

Now, reattach the grid (4 screws, 7mm socket). It's gonna be a little tough to wrestle in place now with the strips but you'll get it eventually.

Next, we need to lay down something as padding to solve the major rattle. This is basically what you're doing with the tennis ball fix but we're going way more crazy with it. I used polyester batting from a quilt shop as my padding. (Like an idiot I bought a 120in x 120in piece so if anybody in the SD area wants to do this hit me up and I have some for you)


The solutions to the rattle:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000399.jpg


Mine came in a huge yet thin sheet so I cut a stripe across the top and took it to the car so I could then cut what I needed for each spot.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000404.jpg


Make sure you don't cover up the holes for the speakers and the spot where the screw attaches to the shelf (the one that was hidden by the sub). I folded and placed some until I got it filled up as much as I thought I needed. Mine looked like this after I thought it was ready:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000406.jpg



Now it's time for the nice clean shelf to return.
Before:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000371.jpg

After:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000407.jpg



To put it back just do the opposite of how you took it out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000408.jpg


Now you put the black plastic piece back (Through-Loading Cross Member Trim from step 6)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000409.jpg


Reinsert speaker basket and tether points
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000410.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000411.jpg



Reinsert speakers and speaker covers
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000412.jpg



http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000418.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000420.jpg
It looks so much better in black...



Reattach Sub (I added a little padding inside the box. It might not make sense but this actually tricks the speakers into thinking they're in a bigger box)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000413.jpg


Replace C-Pillars & Lights, be careful how you put it in. It needs to slide in a certain way and also make sure you line up the clips at the top with the holes they go in before you push on them or you can crack them (even if you do they're only like $0.70 at the dealer but that means you need to go and get them).
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000421.jpg

I apparently didn't do it exactly correct at first as you can see in this pic, but you can just slide something in there to fix the other fabric. This pic also clearly shows the difference in color. I'm pretty sure the fabric is actually antracite but flat black works fine. Unless you're really looking you wouldn't even know.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000424.jpg

Reattach seat belt
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000333.jpg

Reattach seat bolsters & plastic thing on top where motor for the window/seatbelt are.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000422.jpg

**Two things with this last part, when you're taking out the bolsters you could crack the mounting point at the top and when you put it back you could crack the clip that holds it in at the bottom. Sorry I forgot to take a picture of the back of the bolster but you'll understand once you take yours out and look at it. As long as the top one wasn't broke you can probably just put the seat bottom in and that will hold it in place. I broke the bottom point on one of mine so I'm gonna have to make a trip to the salvage yard to see if I can find a donor car to get the plastic backing.

Put your seat bottom in the car and enjoy your rattle free stereo!

Final Results:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/P1000423.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/09198031.jpg

Hermes
03-12-2014, 09:02 PM
I was going to ask today before research in forum, thank you very much my friend.

How long did it take ?

I think it can be done in a day, but budget a weekend to be safe

feytr
03-12-2014, 09:08 PM
+1

Gotcha, as soon as possible I will start doing this, probably I need better weather. It's cold in MD :) I do not have garage :/




I think it can be done in a day, but budget a weekend to be safe

Hornung418
03-13-2014, 10:16 AM
Just bought some adhesive backed felt from JoAnn's. Should be an improvement over the 3M double sided tape. Just need the time to figure out non-folding seat removal.

Hermes
03-13-2014, 10:22 AM
I'm actually thinking that 1/8" Dynaliner is a better solution over the double sided tape. I'll use that when I do the blue car

cakM3
03-13-2014, 10:35 AM
I'll be doing this part of my ///M interior retrofit using this DIY soon as the weather starts warming up...then the interior will be 100% complete :)

Hermes
03-13-2014, 10:48 AM
2.5 years later, SoCal sun, no tint

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/rear%20deck/59742E46-439A-4E40-878D-282AEF4839EC.jpg

ELCID86
03-13-2014, 01:27 PM
^ impressive.

feytr
03-26-2014, 02:04 PM
Cool

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

webster
05-09-2014, 11:26 AM
bump cause i desperately need to do this. some days i want to drive my car off a cliff cause of the rattling.

kayger12
05-09-2014, 12:28 PM
bump cause i desperately need to do this. some days i want to drive my car off a cliff cause of the rattling.

My cheap easy fix is still working perfectly after a couple of years.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

webster
05-12-2014, 07:48 AM
i tried that :( didn't work, actually made it worse! sorry for being a debbie downer, the rattle is just infuriating as all hell.

thanks for putting up with my venting.

Hornung418
05-12-2014, 08:02 AM
Need to figure out how to remove the fixed rear seat back. Planning on doing the fuel pump and replacing the grid and rattle proofing the whole thing shortly. Also looking into speaker upgrades...since they will be out of the car too.

Sent from my GS3.

HokieZHP
05-12-2014, 08:20 AM
i tried that :( didn't work, actually made it worse! sorry for being a debbie downer, the rattle is just infuriating as all hell.

thanks for putting up with my venting.

Well my rattle didn't actually come from the rear deck. I did the fix and didn't help. Had my dad ride in the backseat and we found out it was the rear light at the top of the rear window. I took it off and used some double sided tape where the plastic met the glass. And viola, no more rattle! May wanna check that on yours if you've already "fixed" the rear deck

WOLFN8TR
05-12-2014, 11:44 AM
Fixed my rear deck rattle using 3 tennis balls.
-Remove the rear subwoofer.
-Install 3 tennis balls.
-Reinstall rear subwoofer.

Also my antenna cable BNC connection was rattling behind my C pillar. I found this when doing the felt on my C pillars. It was so loose it almost fell off.

webster
05-12-2014, 04:05 PM
^ tried that, had no effect. I think my rattle originates in a different spot than you guys'. The only fix I can think would work is jp's solution to put double sided tape on the plastic grid piece and put the batting between the rear shelf and the frame.

Hornung418
05-12-2014, 04:11 PM
Are your door panel clips lined with the foam ring? Check those for creaks and rattles.

Sent from my GS3.

webster
05-12-2014, 04:16 PM
The rattle is coming from the plastic grid piece at the far edge of where the back window glass meets the rear shelf

Avetiso
05-12-2014, 04:24 PM
Need to figure out how to remove the fixed rear seat back. Planning on doing the fuel pump and replacing the grid and rattle proofing the whole thing shortly. Also looking into speaker upgrades...since they will be out of the car too.

Sent from my GS3.
Fixed seats pull away from the back at the top, and slide out of locking mechanisms on the bottom. When you remove the seat bottom you'll be able to see said mechanisms.

Hornung418
05-12-2014, 04:27 PM
I had to remove my rear headrest...it was hold in it in place. Will experiment tomorrow evening :)

Sent from my GS3.

Vas
05-12-2014, 05:07 PM
As far as rear headrests go, which is the proper way to have them ? I'm talking about the pole which holds them in place since it had a bend in it.

Hornung418
05-12-2014, 05:28 PM
I only had to remove the center head rest. Haven't touched others...

Sent from my GS3.

Avetiso
05-12-2014, 05:32 PM
I only had to remove the center head rest. Haven't touched others...

Sent from my GS3.
Only center needs removal to remove the seat. To remove the shelf, you'll have to pull out the other two as well. It's a bit hard to get leverage, though. They are usually in there tight.

Hermes
05-12-2014, 06:04 PM
I would just like to state that my original intent with this mod was to deal with my faded deck. I installed the 'rattle solution' as a preventative measure