bullfrogs_M3
01-04-2012, 03:09 PM
I did a quick search and didn't see anything about this but I know all of us at sometime may face this on ours or another's car. Hopefully this thread will show/discuss that there is hope out there if you experience oxidation.
Here is my experience so far on my own car and what I did as a process to fix the problem. I had some oxidation occurring on the roof and trunk of my car. This showed up a while back (possibly about 6-9 months ago) and with the brutal AZ sun we get it, seemed to get noticeable pretty quick. At that point, I had a local professional detailer work with me and teach me the proper way to use an orbital. This is evident when I had him work on part of the oxidation area (shown by the clear tape line on the pics below). After he left I dug into the detailing project myself. Completing (what I thought was) color/paint correction over 3-4 days. At that time I only had a very VERY safe Porter Cable that was slow, heavy and old. It looked like I had cleaned all the oxidation up and it looked 100x times better. But that only lasted about 2 or 3 months before it seemed to spring back and show its face again.
Recently I secured a great deal on a Porter Cable 7424xp that was practically new and only used once, along with a large set of pads and additional "product", from a member on E46fanatics. I got it in the mail last week and finally got around to hitting the oxidation on the roof. The difference between the old Porter Cable orbital I had and the new 7424xp, man I tell you what.......I can't even compare it, it is so pitch black night and brightest day!!! The right tools for the right job is all I have to say about that. The process I used is thus:
Hardware:
Porter Cable 7424xp (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Porter-Cable-M17/7424XP-Random-Orbital-Buffer-P331/)
LED light (30 LED light thing I got cheap at Harbor Freight)
Foamaster II Foam Gun (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Gilmour-M33/Foamaster-II-Foam-Gun-P210/12-Gallon-Tank-S1/)
Product:
Meguiar's M105 Ultra-Cut (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/)
Meguiar's Super Intensive Polish(SIP) (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Menzerna-M10/Super-Intensive-Polish-PO83-P124/32-oz-S1/)
Meguiar's Super Finish(SF) (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Menzerna-M10/PO106FA-Nano-Polish-Super-Finish-P228/32-oz-S2/)
Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Jet-Seal-109-P184/16-oz-S1/)
Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/HoneyDew-Snow-Foam-P593/)
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Citrus-Wash-Gloss-P178/16-oz-S1/)
Pads:
Lake Country Purple Wool Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Purple-Foamed-Wool-Pad-P207/55-inch-S2/)
Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Orange-Light-Cutting-Pad-P58/65-S1/)
Lake Country White Polishing Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/White-Polishing-Pad-P57/55-inch-S2/)
BEFORE PICS:
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/oxidation1/web.jpg
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/oxidation2/web.jpg
Steps:
1. Use M105 on Purple pad. Start on setting 2 on orbital and progressively move up to setting 6 before backing down to 4
2. Repeat step 1.
3. Use SIP on Orange pad. Start on setting 2 and progressively move up to setting 4 or 5
4. Use SF on White pad. Again, start on setting 2 and progressively move up to setting 4 or 5
5. Foam it up with the HoneyDew Snow Foam and foam gun
6. Wash with the Citrus Wash
7. Hit the entire car by hand with the JetSeal 109 and let sit overnight
PROCESS PIC (yup thats a LOT of dust):
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/dust/web.jpg
AFTER PIC (before I washed and sealed the car):
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/pass1_2_3/web.jpg
Results:
I really can't show you or tell you just how incredible it looks. I mean, it looks like glass to start off with and I can't even see any of the oxidation any more. It looks completely gone, i mean COMPLETELY GONE. I can't even find the line that is in the first two pics from my original detail with the pro. So there is hope if you have oxidation like I did. A good color correction with the right tools and product can make it all go away and bring your car back!!!
Here is my experience so far on my own car and what I did as a process to fix the problem. I had some oxidation occurring on the roof and trunk of my car. This showed up a while back (possibly about 6-9 months ago) and with the brutal AZ sun we get it, seemed to get noticeable pretty quick. At that point, I had a local professional detailer work with me and teach me the proper way to use an orbital. This is evident when I had him work on part of the oxidation area (shown by the clear tape line on the pics below). After he left I dug into the detailing project myself. Completing (what I thought was) color/paint correction over 3-4 days. At that time I only had a very VERY safe Porter Cable that was slow, heavy and old. It looked like I had cleaned all the oxidation up and it looked 100x times better. But that only lasted about 2 or 3 months before it seemed to spring back and show its face again.
Recently I secured a great deal on a Porter Cable 7424xp that was practically new and only used once, along with a large set of pads and additional "product", from a member on E46fanatics. I got it in the mail last week and finally got around to hitting the oxidation on the roof. The difference between the old Porter Cable orbital I had and the new 7424xp, man I tell you what.......I can't even compare it, it is so pitch black night and brightest day!!! The right tools for the right job is all I have to say about that. The process I used is thus:
Hardware:
Porter Cable 7424xp (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Porter-Cable-M17/7424XP-Random-Orbital-Buffer-P331/)
LED light (30 LED light thing I got cheap at Harbor Freight)
Foamaster II Foam Gun (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Gilmour-M33/Foamaster-II-Foam-Gun-P210/12-Gallon-Tank-S1/)
Product:
Meguiar's M105 Ultra-Cut (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/)
Meguiar's Super Intensive Polish(SIP) (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Menzerna-M10/Super-Intensive-Polish-PO83-P124/32-oz-S1/)
Meguiar's Super Finish(SF) (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Menzerna-M10/PO106FA-Nano-Polish-Super-Finish-P228/32-oz-S2/)
Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Jet-Seal-109-P184/16-oz-S1/)
Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/HoneyDew-Snow-Foam-P593/)
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Citrus-Wash-Gloss-P178/16-oz-S1/)
Pads:
Lake Country Purple Wool Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Purple-Foamed-Wool-Pad-P207/55-inch-S2/)
Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Orange-Light-Cutting-Pad-P58/65-S1/)
Lake Country White Polishing Pad (http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php?id=13407&url=detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/White-Polishing-Pad-P57/55-inch-S2/)
BEFORE PICS:
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/oxidation1/web.jpg
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/oxidation2/web.jpg
Steps:
1. Use M105 on Purple pad. Start on setting 2 on orbital and progressively move up to setting 6 before backing down to 4
2. Repeat step 1.
3. Use SIP on Orange pad. Start on setting 2 and progressively move up to setting 4 or 5
4. Use SF on White pad. Again, start on setting 2 and progressively move up to setting 4 or 5
5. Foam it up with the HoneyDew Snow Foam and foam gun
6. Wash with the Citrus Wash
7. Hit the entire car by hand with the JetSeal 109 and let sit overnight
PROCESS PIC (yup thats a LOT of dust):
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/dust/web.jpg
AFTER PIC (before I washed and sealed the car):
http://gallery.me.com/jeremiahconnelly/100066/pass1_2_3/web.jpg
Results:
I really can't show you or tell you just how incredible it looks. I mean, it looks like glass to start off with and I can't even see any of the oxidation any more. It looks completely gone, i mean COMPLETELY GONE. I can't even find the line that is in the first two pics from my original detail with the pro. So there is hope if you have oxidation like I did. A good color correction with the right tools and product can make it all go away and bring your car back!!!