Are there issues with supercharging 2005 ZHP with 118k miles? Would it stress engine internals beyond the engines design?
Printable View
Are there issues with supercharging 2005 ZHP with 118k miles? Would it stress engine internals beyond the engines design?
Most supercharger kits “out of the box” are under 10psi. Additionally, the boost is more linear which is easier on the motor/drivetrain.
A few guys in here have the twin scroll charger kits and can probably attest better. I plan to go with a VF/Vortech engineering kit which is either 6 or 8psi. You can up the boost with a different tune, injectors, pulley.
I have 106k-ish on my motor (2nd owner) and don’t have any qualms about boosting it. Depending on how you drive the car will determine the lifespan of various parts of your car and components of your supercharging system
I have the AA setup it’s a procharger style at 111kmi. I actually purchased it like this, no issue but dang it’s so fun to drive!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2cb7f33e39.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As long as your maintenance is up to date, go for it. Anything not rectified before supercharging will most certainly manifest itself after boosting it.
I put mine on at 80K ish, no issues
Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
I'm dying to drive a SC ZHP to see if it's something I would consider doing. If not, I'm just going to do Dinan intake / throttle body / software
Does a Supercharger change the characteristics of the engine (besides power)?
How does an M54 + supercharger compare to an N54?
Depends on the style of supercharger. The following are super duper generalizations and depend on your tune, build, internals, ect.
Twin screw types tend to give power from lower in the rev range and provide power across the band.
Centrifugal tend to act like the stock powerplant in the lower rev range and provide more power on the higher end.
Most of the SC's for our platform are Centrifugal types (Active Autowerks as an example) and ESS providing a Twin Screw platform.
An SC kit really just changes where you make that power and of course you make more of it. The experiences I've seen and worked with tend to run like stock at idle and give the car a much needed oomph when you want it. But overall, the driving dynamics aren't drastically changed. They're amplified in some ways.
It may expose other areas of the car that need to be built for the power increase. Clutches, brakes, and other supporting modifications are all things to look at. You may get more suspension squat when applying power, for example.
It does change the way you drive lol.
Your second question depends on how much money you want to spend. There have been and are N54 blocks pushing north of 5-600hp on stock internals. That doesn't mean that stock internals are gonna hold 600hp forever. But they can do it.
The M54B30 is a rather tough nut to crack more HP out of without extensive tuning and modification. BMW tuned the block really well from the factory.
For perspective, I have forged internals, full exhaust/headers sans cats, a dyno tune from AA (Active Autowerks), full intake, pulleys, and the supporting bits for those modifications. All in, I'm few grand....more than that...into the car. I'm around 260ish crank if I wanna be really...reeeaally kind to the car. I don't even remember where I put my dyno sheets. So, I'ma under rate vs over rate my car. But that's close to what we had. So...cool.... I can outrun a 20yr old mustang in a straight line. An SC will make more power right out of the box than all of that. Cost about the same-ish and can be extremely reliable with low boost.
The M54 doesn't get the turbo time to spool feeling when running an SC. The N54 however has a rather high (considering it's boosted) ratio of 10:2:1. So it doesn't feel anemic when off boost. But to make more power, most tuners lower that compression ratio to prevent detonation.
An N54 requires far less, and yet more in some ways, work to make power. But the block, when built properly, is capable of 2JZ stupid levels of power. Something that no one with an M54B30 is making without spending far FAR more on without making a Theseus build on the engine anyways.
Long n short? A SC'd M54/ZHP is a freaking blast. But, the engine will still be making around 300-350ish on most builds. An N54 is going to make more power on a stout block. Stock N54 vs an SC M54 are comparable in my experience. But the N54 just needs a weekend and a tune to start walking on the M54.
Most of us who want more power or speed just buy a faster ride. SC'd ZHPs are phenomenal. But if a pocket powerhouse is what you're after, this chassis isn't it. Unless you're willing to open your pocketbook to obscene levels.
If any of our hardcore tuning guys wanna pitch in or add corrections, please do. My input isn't perfect and is based on personal experience with the platform.
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
Very good info. I’ll likely stick with the stock. I’m super hesitant to do any mods, as BMW made their decisions for a reason, and with a supreme obsession to detail. I expect an SC ZHP would require a rear subframe welding (something I might do regardless as I have to do rear suspension work). The M54 engine is more than adequate for city driving.
Still, thanks for the info!
If I wanted more power, I might go with an S54 swap.... I’ve been toying with that idea for a while now.
I love my twin screw SC! It's only a TS1 so 5 psi, not real extra burden on the car but definitely adds to the feel of the car, like it should have been from the factory in the 1st place. Fast, but not blazing fast. Got to 8 psi with a TS2 is a different ballgame.
Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk