Yes. In pimpology.
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Yes. In pimpology.
:rofl
You bet you a doctorate in BMW DIY. Respect man.
Good idea Spence!
Did you ever check the IBS graduate school program at the U of Kentucky?
You're much too kind (well most)......I still have a lot to learn about these cars....but as Spencer mentioned.....PO probably had some indy work done. I can support that theory.
Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!
Taking the car back to the Indy tomorrow because I am hearing the beginning of the appearance of the start of the birth of a small "tiiiiiiink" when I hit the brakes....
Indy guy admitted that the Bentley does recommend for a new bushing (can't reuse the bushing once you took control arm out - just like you professional DIYer were saying). But he also said that as long as the removal is well made and bushing is intact (he has a huge 2 Ton press for that, we BMW-sized inserts, etc...), that you can reuse, at least he does.
He double checked all his work and stood by it. The wheel, which used to move a bit backward on hitting the brakes, no longer budges. According to him, the CA is doing it's job. I also saw the old control arm, and the inner and outer ball joint were indeed loose. So the job had to be done I agree.
So what's the brake-related clunk? The brake pads that are very worn and could be rattling a bit (I have know the brakes were pretty far used in the front since buying the car).
I have put it off for long enough now. So I contacted our buddy Ray at brakeyourself.com and he got me a great deal on Centric cross-drilled rotors (4) and Stoptech pads, 2 sensors and liter of the blue brake fluid. $380 shipped
I'll be doing those suckers next week. In the meantime, I think I need some deepcreep to remove that retaining bolt (agreed?). I'll bleed while pushing (slowly) the calipers out, so the dirty stuff comes out the bottom (agree?). What is the brake grease called I need to put on the pins and on the back of the pads?
Should I start with the back right first?
Pointers from the best of the best are appreciated.
I used this for my anti-squeal http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...All/ES2145142/
You might not need the penetrating lubricant for the rotor retaining bolts, but I would have four new bolts on hand in case you have to drill them out (they're cheap).
In the case of the last brake job I did on my friend's E36, the two rears came out no problem, driver's front needed a 5 minute oil soak, and the passenger front rotor retaining bolt was so tight that I actually snapped my 6mm hex-head socket on it trying to get it out.
As for bleeding while pushing the caliper, I've never heard of that method. I would just bleed prior to doing the job if you're worried about pushing garbage up the lines. Someone smarter than I might have a different and better opinion, though.
And as for the bleed, you are correct-- furthest point from the reservoir to closest point. So for us, passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, driver front.
Thanks Keith, will do and report back with pics of the rotors and perhaps, the hand of the clunk.
But man, just came back from Louisville, 1 hour away, our cars are so smooth on the highway, just adapts to the road and the wind...pleasure. hmhmhm
I use CRC anti squeal. It's a red paste that you apply between the backside of the brake pads and the caliper. Works well!