Wow - can't believe it's been more than four years since I last updated this thread. :blink
Let's see - what have I done since the last post... Working backwards using my maintenance log;
...
Type: Posts; User: cornercarver
Wow - can't believe it's been more than four years since I last updated this thread. :blink
Let's see - what have I done since the last post... Working backwards using my maintenance log;
...
1. Wheel fitment is unchanged because I re-used the ZHP RTA’s, but I believe you are correct; the difference according to what I’ve read on other forums is in the M3 wheel offsets.
2. Yes, you have...
A quick update on driving impressions;
The 3.62 gearing is a great addition to the car and not that bad on the highway. It tachs 3000rpm at about 70 mph now, compared to 80 before. It’s only about...
I don't see how it's possible to get it out; There doesn't appear to be enough room for the two rear differential bolts to come all the way out. I'll admit, I haven't tried - maybe it's possible. If...
It's an older Eagle 7000 lb model - don't think they still sell it. If memory serves me, it's a SS7000. Their current lineup only has an 8000lb offering.
If you're looking at new options I'd...
Two ways;
1. I made a stand out of 2x10's which I put under the rear axle carrier while the lift is in the 'up' position, then lower the lift, letting the stand support the rear until the ramp...
Thanks Dave!
I’m trying to figure out where that vibration is coming from... I think you mentioned it when I came to look at it at your place. Feels like it could be the CSB, or the maybe the...
It was actually touching the axle flange and carrier. Even if there was a half inch of space I still would have cut it. That close to the CV joint would, at the very least, cause the boot to dry and...
I wanted a lift for the longest time, but could never justify the cost. Then a fellow car guy offered it up for $750 delivered - it was a no-brainer. It makes a huge difference in maintenance. My...
Installed an M3 rear end over the long weekend...Approximately 134,500 miles. Didn't take many photos besides this one;
35366
A few notes;
If you do this, plan on spending at least...
You mean RTAB? :cool
New RTAB’s installed today... 132,500 miles. Also put the summers back on and fixed an exhaust leak. It was a productive day.
34921
Updating this to note that the brakes feel considerably better, and the pads are sweeping the whole rotor face now. :applause2
They're still a tad spongy though, so I'm going to bleed them again...
It's important to point out that this method is not recommended for the Akebono pads. I've always felt the above method was intended for aggressive street/track pads only. The recommendations on...
I’m no expert on bedding, so I researched it online... This Tire Rack link seems to sum it up pretty well; https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
I think that's more likely to overheat the brakes.
Thanks for the offer! With my luck the old bleeder screw will snap off, and then it's not worth the effort to drill it out. I'd rather spend that time replacing the caliper. I'll probably get new...
Attempted to bleed the brakes this weekend... The LR bleeder screw was frozen so I'll have to replace it at some point. I skipped that caliper and did the other three. The fluid was definitely old...
Dont know, but I’ll check. I think the bedding recommendation is more geared towards the type of pad than rotor.
Yeah, the initial bite is definitely not as good, but the pedal is also really mushy and it worsens the problem.
Yep, except the bedding procedure for the Akebono pads according to the Tire Rack is simply to drive the car normally for 400-500 miles. :( It'll be a couple of months before I drive that far.
Thanks. Hoping it just needs a good bleed...
Another entry for maintenance;
I was so sick of cleaning my wheels every other day (and concerned that such frequent cleaning is going to dull the finish) that I installed new Akebono ceramic...
Red arrow in the pic below points to the spacer (no, it's not a washer; what you see is the flange of the spacer which takes up the gap between the stud and hole in the strut flange.) They would...
If they're the same end links I have, there should definitely be a small spacer because the stud is too small for the holes in the strut and anti-roll bar.