I don't think you'd find that.
I think it's difficult to ever prove, but the concern for me would be reduced longevity.
Maybe with the wrong oil the motor gives up at 200k instead of 270k.
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Type: Posts; User: kayger12
I don't think you'd find that.
I think it's difficult to ever prove, but the concern for me would be reduced longevity.
Maybe with the wrong oil the motor gives up at 200k instead of 270k.
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Great info. Thanks, Wash.
Take a look at the BMW oil change kit that Tischer sells. getbmwparts.com
Free shipping.
I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3
I do the same and have multiple good Blackstone reports with the BMW 5w30.
Don't think there's any reason to change, imo.
Oil analysis will tell the tale, though.
I wish this was sent with...
I think your Jiffy Lube theory is right on. Not sure about the additives.
I'd consider switching up the oil choice regardless-- you should not be getting that kind of wear from 8k miles.
I've always read that Total Quartz was a good choice. Read about it on BITOG, iirc.
Ok-- can't find it in anything definitive, but it is repeated throughout numerous posts of fanatics, bimmer forums, bimmerfest... that a 5 second yellow oil light at start up is a faulty sensor.
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I have always read that a yellow oil light at start up means a faulty sensor.
I will dig and see if I can find something to back that up.
Faulty level sensor is *supposed* to be a 30 second yellow light at start up. Not sure that's always the case, though.
My 325 wouldn't trigger the light until it was below the minimum line.
My ZHP triggers the light if it gets below the middle of the center section between max and min.
Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.
Pretty much. I run it more towards -20 on the initial set up.
Sometimes I'll give her 10 or so extra pumps after 5 minutes or so, but that's only if I'm standing there waiting.
I crimp and build up the vacuum first.
Slide the tube down until you feel it hit the bottom of the oil pan, open the little crimper clip, and go have a beer.
About 10 minutes later, you'll have...
Great purchase. You'll love it.
Hmm. Don't think so. I would think it would be too heavy.
Sure thing.
Not trying to scare anyone-- just throwing the info out there.
My understanding:
LL-04 is not approved and is no good for US cars due to the fuel we have here (as mentioned above).
LL-01 and LL-04 lubrication properties are essentially the same, but LL-04...
Yes. This.
Negative. Cap off.
Going to merge this with the oil thread.
I said this in the other thread, but with the oil filter being on top of the motor, Motive Extractor is a great option.
Not only do I not get dirty changing my oil, I can stay standing up the...
Info I cut and pasted into my maintenance files:
The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k...
You won't be disappointed. Also great for sucking the residual oil out of the bottom of the oil filter housing.
It also beats the turkey baster for power steering fluid swaps.
Motive Extractor here. No need. :)
I wouldn't think so. There are a lot of places where these things are known for losing oil: vcg, oil filter housing gasket, ccv, just to name a few.
I would start snooping around for a small leak.
Good plan. I like.