To start the full Re-Build can be seen here if interested. Onto the story!
In September of 2009 I began my search for a car. I went back and forth a few times, but the E46 seemed to be calling to me. I also experienced some of my Uncle's driving in an M3 about a year prior which was and still is the most intense driving experience I have ever had. After finally settling on an E46 I laid out my ground rules. The car had to have less than 60k miles, and had to be a manual, beyond that price was my only constraint. I looked at a few E46's in September, October, and November but none of them worked out. While doing my usual round on Cars.com, Autotrader, and eBay I came across a wrecked and salvaged ZHP on eBay from a dealer in Pennsylvania. While I had previously concluded there was no way I could afford a ZHP with less than 60k miles I added it to my watch list, although not seriously considering it. With about two hours left in the auction I decided I wanted the car - impulsive...probably. I crunched the numbers and decided on a price. I waited until there was ten seconds left in the auction and bid $8000. I won it by hitting the reserve at $7900. Mind you with about a minute left in the auction I decided to up my number from $7750 to $8000. To be honest, I couldn't believe I had just won the car, it took a while to set in. Soon the paperwork was through and I was waiting for Thanksgiving weekend to pick the car up. Before I go further I would like to thank my Father for all the help he provided on re-building the car, my Grandfather for providing a place to do the rebuild at, and the BMW of Sudbury Staff for providing the parts I needed in a timely manner and being helpful throughout. My Father and I picked up the car the day after Thanksgiving - other than a few small mishaps everything went well.
The goal of this project was to bring the car back to what it was before the accident using all factory, new, BMW Parts. A nice positive to this particular car was that it was a very nice and clean car before the accident owned by people who cared. It has also had an Oil Change, Brakes, Rotors, and New Tires installed only 500 miles prior to the accident.
We began working on the car the next day. This is what we began with.
After taking off all broken pieces this is what we were left with.
Other than the obvious, the Windshield was cracked, both Airbags deployed, and, well, a lot more.
I began buying new parts for the car and soon it was down at the body shop for frame alignment and body work. Here are pictures prior to the work.
During the work:
And finally what it looked like before I got it back:
New Cooling System installed:
More parts installed, old windshield removed for replacing.
New glass installed:
Ready to go back to the body shop:
Finished at the body shop:
Coming together:
New Battery Safety Terminal installed:
It's done!
Nevermind...
Try 2?:
Overall, it took me three tries to finally pass the re-built inspection to get my reconstructed title and insure and register the car. The first try resulted in failure due to lack of paperwork. The second try resulted in failure due to the airbag light being on - the first passenger airbag replacement I ordered was for an older car and was not compatible. Finally got the airbag squared away with all paperwork and passed on March 24, 2010.
I've had many people inquire about the total cost - after finishing up the few defects left this Spring the final cost will be around $16k. I initially hoped I could get into the car for $12-13k but that was not possible.
Overall, I would NOT suggest people doing this as a way to get into a car "cheap". To begin with, you would need to buy it straight from the insurance company and probably use aftermarket parts to get into the car for at or lower than the realistic value of the car is after rebuilding it.
However, the experience I attained from doing this rebuild was priceless. Before the rebuild I could barely could use a ratchet in the proper fashion. Coolant was something you used to cool "stuff". Water pumps and thermostats were foreign objects. A valve cover gasket...? Since then I have installed all modifications listed below, changed the valve cover gasket, done the VANOS seals and rattle kit, wired my gauges and radar detector, and much more. While I wouldn't consider myself a mechanic or electrician, I at least now have the knowledge do nearly everything to my car by myself provided I have the proper tools. It was also a very fun and rewarding experience. I have formed a bond with this car that will be hard, if ever it comes, to break.
In Conclusion, I absolutely love the ZHP. Looking back on it, I'm very happy with what I ended up with. A 2001 Sport Package 330 can not compare, in my opinion, to what the ZHP has to offer. While it may have been cheaper and a lot less work, it wouldn't be like what I have.
Again, I would like to thank my Father for the help he provided with re-building the car, my Grandfather for providing the place to do the rebuild at, and the BMW of Sudbury Staff for providing the parts I needed in a timely manner and being helpful throughout. I couldn't have done it without any of them.
Feel free to ask any questions and make any comments you like. I'm sure I'll be modifying this post in the future.
Onto the Post-Rebuild Project!
1st Mod:
Second Mod (Radar Detector):
Next was "repairing" my Cube Trim which was pretty much murdered on the drivers side.
Before:
After:
Valve Cover Gasket:
AFE Intake:
Carbon Fiber Hood Painted (Came out Great!):
Meyle HD FCAB's (Old one's were shot due to accident):
VANOS + CCV (NOT recommended to do together...):
New Alcantara Wheel + Shift Knob:
Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, & Voltmeter Gauges:
Next was armrest delete:
2/04/2011:
Schroth Harness Installed
2/13/2011:
Already had the iPod Charger connected there. Re-routed the auxiliary wire to euro-tray. And last I put a super-stealth garage door opener switch button in
I need to paint the nut black, but it's pretty cool and a lot better than having the remote on the sun visor.
3/2/2011:
Saturday I did my Oil Change at 4k Miles and replaced the Mobil 1 0W-40 with Redline 5W-30.
The car
The tools
The fail
Onto relocating the temperature sender!
Accidentally turned sensor wrong way, making it tighter than distribution block. So I had to hold the distribution block in place while loosening the temp sensor. Took about an hour due to lack of space.
I claim victory.
Into the drain plug location you go
So, it took about 2 hours total but in the end everything worked out. Well, except now the oil pressure sensor is leaking because it got knocked around trying to get the temp sensor out.... At this point I will be replacing the entire distribution block and pressure sensor with a new pressure sensor that fits directly in the M12x1.5 hole! A lot less potential for leaks.
3/15/2011:
I am happy to report I now have accurate oil temperature readings! Here is the wiring I did. I'll get a picture of the gauge when I get a chance.
Starts at the oil drain plug (wrapped it with electrical tape to protect it):
Moves back to metal reinforcement plate:
Goes to oil level sensor wiring:
Follows oil level sensor wiring:
Follows it more:
Goes through a little hole and follows some other wiring and in the background you can see the oil distribution block where it connects to the wiring from before:
Oil Temp works!
Front & Rear BMW Performance Rotors & StopTech Pads
Did the Front & Rear Pads & Rotors yesterday. BMW Performance Rotors all around with Stoptech Street Performance Pads.
Pads:
Fronts Before:
Fronts After:
Rears Before:
Rears After:
My Car went on a diet today, here's what she lost:
Jackstand + Misc.: 7lbs
Trunk Panel: 6lbs
Trunk Mat: 4lbs
Spare: 28lbs
Lower Seat Belts: 1.5lbs
Smaller Seat Back: 12lbs
Larger Seat Back: 24lbs
Lower Seat: 13lbs
Side Bolsters: 3.5lbs
Total: 99lbs. Just couldn't hit 100. Looks like something else will need to come out haha. No pics for now - sorry.
That brings total (est.) weight to 3217.6.
CF Hood: -20lbs (12lbs compared to 32)
Center Armrest Delete: -7lbs
Performance Rotors: -12.4lbs
Today: -99lbs
I would love to get below 3200lbs; would also love to get some lighter front seats and wheels. We shall see what the future brings.
4.29.2011
Alright, so the first Autocross of the year is tomorrow. Here's some updates/info.
I bought SSR Comp-H's w/ Goodyear F1 Asymmetric tires. Here's data comparing weights to my old track wheels (ZHP's w/ Michelin Pilot Sports):
ZHP Front Wheel: 28lbs
ZHP Rear Wheel: 28.25lbs
Michelin PS 225/40/18: 21.25lbs
Michelin PS 255/35/18: 22.5lbs
SSR Wheel: 18.5lbs
Goodyear F1 245/40/18: 23.25lbs
ZHP Front + Michelin PS 225: 49.25lbs each
ZHP Rear + Michelin PS 255: 50.75lbs each
SSR + Goodyear F1 245/40/18's: 41.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 225: 39.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 255: 41lbs each
Current Weight Savings: 33lbs total
Weight Savings w/ Michelin PS over Goodyear F1's: 38.5lbs total
Anyway, I dismounted my ZHP Wheels w/ Continental All Seasons and put on the SSR's with the Goodyear F1's. Saves me 33lbs over stock and probably more because I'm pretty sure the Continental's weigh more than the Michelins. Eventually will save 38.5lbs when I swap the Michelin's over the Goodyear's.
So 3217.6 - 33 = 3184.6lbs. On top of this I removed both front floor mats (2 lbs) and 2 rear headrests (2 lbs). This brings total current weight to (est.) 3180.6lbs.
I topped off my oil, washed the car, cleaned the interior, and taped it up for Autocross. Unfortunately, I didn't have time last week to do most of what I wanted to and so I still have a bunch of things to do to the car, but we're slowly getting there.
In terms of the wheels, the Goodyear's are much, much better over the Continentals, then again the Goodyear's are a Summer tire and the Conti's an all-season tire but still, it was a very noticeable difference. The wheels seems more connected to the road and more responsive. I will comment more on the wheels tomorrow.
In other terms, the wheels sit flush with the fenders and look
Here's some pictures as the car stands:
5.30.2011
Today I replaced the Water Pump (Stewart), Thermostat (Zionsville 88C), Pulley (Factory), Condenser (Factory), Receiver Drier (Behr), Coolant Flush (50/50 BMW/Distilled), Passengers Fender Liner (Factory BMW), New Clear Bumper Reflectors (Khoalty), fixed passengers Fog Light (temporarily), and fixed small portion of bumper.
Note: Haven't driven it, but just sitting the car is at about 88-89 Celcius (190-192f) compared to stock 96-97 (204-206f). Total drop of about 8C/15f. I am happy with the results.
Tear-Down Complete:
Zionsville Thermostat, BMW Pulley, & Stewart Water Pump Installed:
Behr Receiver Drier:
BMW Condenser Installed & Radiator Assembly Re-Installed:
Assembly Complete:
Oh no...
Extended
Shortened
Oh yes! An adjustable brake-duct to air filter hose, not exactly factory looking but pretty much impossible to spot anyway.
6.9.2011
3180.6lbs -9.5lbs, -4lbs (steering column under-panel, passenger upper handle, misc metal) = 3167.1. Installed passenger harness (Schroth Quick-Fit) and installed the LED for something special.
What could this be?
How she sits:
Next is to strip front door panels, maybe remove H/K Amp, maybe some other things too. The problem I am starting to face is offsetting the balance of the car. Looks like some coil-overs may be needed, now I just need the money for them
Fun Facts:
Every part replaced was Factory BMW except:
AFE Intake
Behr Receiver Drier
Euro-Spec/DDM-Spec Carbon Fiber Hood
Khoalty Blackout Grills
Khoalty Clear Reflectors
Meyle HD FCAB's
Every part replaced was Brand New except:
Passenger Headlight
Headlight Filler Cover
Driver's Airbag
Passenger Airbag
AFE Intake
1 M3 Hood Shock
I have over 30 receipts from the dealer.
It took over 200 parts to replace everything.
Stock 330Ci w/ ZHP, H/K, Sunroof & Heated/Power Seats: 3191 lbs (wet) & 235 HP @ The Crank
Current: 3001 lbs (wet) & 238 HP @ The Crank
2013 Goal: 2600 lbs (wet) & 305HP @ The Crank
My definition of (wet): All fluids topped off (including gas) with no driver.
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Originally Posted by Marcus-SanDiego
