Window regulator finally went out..

[BimmerWill]

I've been waiting for it over the years and this morning on my way to work the drivers side window made a very loud cracking and popping noise going both up and down.

Its given me trouble about being slow over the years when rolling back up but it still worked so I left it be until it did finally decide to go completely out.

It seems like now I'm going to have to take the door panel off and see whats going on in there. One reason ive been hesitant to take the panel off is according to some of the DIY's ive read in passing stating that I have to cut the moisture barrier free in order to access the interior of the window mechanism which has made me a little nervous about doing it but at this point its got to happen.

Can anyone give any tips in regards to replacing and or simply doing the zip tie mod? From what I've heard the zip tie is a quick fix but isn't long term so I was thinking about rigging up something more permanent. Prices on these new regulators are a little more than I was wanting to spend so I'd hoped on just fixing the one I have somehow.

The sound it is making now almost sounds like something is grinding against the window itself, its difficult to describe but is definitely not making the same noise it was before. Hope to tackle this within the next day or so.

Thanks guys!

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[danewilson77]

You don't need to remove the panel to know what's going one.

99% sure the cable jumped the track and got wedge and ruined in the pulley's (hence the crunching sound).

I believe you're beyond the zip tie fix. I've never been able to fix one that's all together failed.

IMO, zip tie fix is a preventative measure when window first shows symptoms.

[BimmerWill]

You don't need to remove the panel to know what's going one.

99% sure the cable jumped the track and got wedge and ruined in the pulley's (hence the crunching sound).

I believe you're beyond the zip tie fix. I've never been able to fix one that's all together failed.

IMO, zip tie fix is a preventative measure when window first shows symptoms.

So definite gonna need a new regulator then I'm assuming?

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[danewilson77]

I wouldn't want you to buy the part then not need it. I also wouldn't want you to get into the job without parts and then need the regulator.

In my opinion once that cable comes off the track, the cabled gets kinked/pinched (will never straighten again), and becomes wedged.

In my experience it is impossible to re-route to affect the zie tie fix and have the window work once this happens.

Wait for others to chime in if you want.

[BimmerWill]

I've heard you'd advice enough to know to take it with more than just a grain of salt so I'm leaning towards ordering the past before I tackle it. I'll try to upload a video sometime today or tonight and see if you all can confirm that's what it is.

I'm just hoping that the gears aren't sheared off the motor :/

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[danewilson77]

I've heard you'd advice enough to know to take it with more than just a grain of salt so I'm leaning towards ordering the past before I tackle it. I'll try to upload a video sometime today or tonight and see if you all can confirm that's what it is.

I'm just hoping that the gears aren't sheared off the motor :/

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Never seen the motor issue you describe.

HTC DNA ON TT4 BETA, WILLIAMSBURG, VA

[BimmerWill]

I saw a video this morning where regulator went out and when the cable got unwound around the pulley became bound up into the gears of the motor and chewed the teeth up.

I'm thinking I won't have the same problem as the window still goes up and down just is not liking it at all. Seems like the cable has come off track and wreaking havoc inside.

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[328ioc]

I have done 4 window regs now and my suggestion is based on the sounds you describe, stop using your window immediately and order a new regulator.

Your motor will be fine and the reg is about 160 to 180 at the dealer.

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[Crickett]

My $0.02 (after sifting through many posts on E46F on the subject):

Order a $30 regulator off eBay (like this one here): these parts, even the $$$ Genuine BMW ones, will fail – the bracket design just isn't up to normal, long-term usage – so you might as well go with the cheapest option. Even if the eBay ones only last a year (guys on E46F using them have reported multiple years of good operation, though), you can replace it around four times before you've spent the amount of the Genuine BMW part.

That's my plan for my failed & failing regulators. YMMV.

(Disclaimer: I know the attitude of "so you might as well go with the cheapest option" isn't common among us enthusiasts, & I generally 100% agree that it's a BS attitude, but in this instance, I have no problem going the cheapest route. It's a very simple DIY &, assuming the eBay part will work at least as good & anywhere close to as long as the OE part (& isn't made of tin foil), it should be economical in the long-run.)

[BimmerWill]

I'm debating on getting one from oembimmerparts or another site. Prices seem to be between 50-100 bucks for a new aftermarket one and will do the zip tie mod while I have the new assembly out just as further preventative maintenance.

Does anyone know if Uro is the original supplier for these or not?

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