Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,588

    Thumbs up Is it too loud?? **Sound Deadening Project**

    I mean your road noise...

    I decided to take up an offer from my friend help my car with his sound deadening skills as he has done multiple BMWs with success on each of them. He'll go all out on every panel while keeping weight down.

    My goal was to control the exhaust resonance that my Eisenmann Race muffler gives off at 2,500RPM to 3,000RPM under load.

    What I did:
    First, we started with the door panels. They are somewhat easy to access panels which are large and not broken up by folds and creases. When you tap on the exterior door panel you will hear a slight echo after like hitting an empty tin can. That slight "post tap" echo will happen whenever the panel receives a vibration.



    Since it's a place you don't access all the time my friend said we want to give dynamat a surface that it can hold onto without falling off because the last you want is a piece of loose dynamat rattling on the bottom of the door. We used a simple degreaser to clean the inside surface.



    After letting it hang out for a couple minutes we agitated it with a rough sponge and rinsed it all out which also helped in clearing all the dirt collected at the bottom of the door thus cleaning out the gutters and opening for water to evacuate in wet conditions.



    We towel dried the panels as much as we can and let it air dry while the dynamat cutting happened.



    My friend has had good success in using 3" squares which are NOT exact. He said not to worry about it being exact as different sizes will reduce different frequencies so you'll end up targeting a higher dynamic of sounds with uneven sizes.



    On the panel, you pick around the middle of it and place a square there. You then tap with your fingernail on the outside he head how solid that tap sounds and you work your way away from that zone until the sound changes back to the tinny echo. That seemed to be 3" so we put another square after 3" and so on until you got as much as you can go with the limited space your hands can reach in. We used a tennis ball to press the dynamat onto the panel by either rubbing or rolling it around on it for a solid adhesion.



    After dynamat was done my friend measured out strips of foam dynaliner to put over the panel and dynamat. This stuff is really light.



    You can see we just covered the panel taller strips. My friend cut them longer lengthwise so we didn't need as many pieces to fit it in the panel but small enough to manage so it doesn't flop around and stick everywhere else. The method to attach without the sticky side controlling our peace was to fold the non sticky side over and pull it off after we get the piece mounted right.



    Once that's done, put everything back together!



    We attacked the rear fenders and trunk in the same way as the door panels. A lot less dynamat was used in the trunk because there are so many creases that minimize vibration already. The rear fenders are smooth and large so you'll need more dynamat to reduce the vibrations since there are few creases to minimize those sounds.



    My results:
    More of "other" things I wanted by in a positive way

    When I tap on the panels that were dynamatted/lined it was just met with a solid THUD rather than a ping. Opening and closing the doors are followed with a deep bass with no post vibration so it sounds more like a safe but not quite like a bulletproof vehicle which I get to travel in when I'm on my Central America mission trips.

    High frequency road noise is minimized. Running over small rocks, sand kicked up into the fender liners, sharp shock absorbed impacts are reduced and met with a solid feel. You may think your car is solid sounding already since there are no squeaks but this just damps it even more without losing any connection to the road that we love so much.

    Low frequency exhaust drone is still there (maybe reduced a tiny amount) but anything high frequency on my setup, S54 rasp...is dramatically reduced so inside the car I hear mostly mid to low tones. WOT past 4,000RPM sounds even better because the engine induction sound has been greatly defined inside the cabin.

    What I learned:
    Sound deadening panels with dynamat and dynaliner seems to work best for minimizing mostly high frequency vibrations. Resonance (my exhaust tone) is more of a low to mid tone which is birthed and builds up over a larger areas of metal so it's much more difficult to localize compared to getting rid of a rattle or a quick high frequency "ping".

    How much weight did I add?
    I think I might have used one to two pounds at most. Heavy dynamat is used sparingly but enough to damp vibrations. Dynaliner is much lighter so is is used in larger sized pieces. I'm not sure exactly how much was used currently because my friend has loads of it in bulk at his place to do many cars.

    How to improve?
    I am going to work on the trunk and rear fenders a bit more. The rear passenger seating surface hasn't been touched and I haven't tried pulling off the interior rear side panels to access the middle of the car which I want to do. Hope some of my new found experience and knowledge helps. I can say for sure that everyone will get different results. Not everyone's car setup is the same and not everyone's geographical location and road conditions are the same.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,922
    Coo idea! It's already pretty muffled and buttery in there for me.

    Wonder if the greater intake sound is there because you may have muffled the sound of the engine more?
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,588
    The engine is more low and mid frequency. I still hear all the mechanical sounds of the engine. Because nothing extra is deadening the sound of my engine bay and front firewall. The S54 makes a lot of high frequency rasp which can get loud and overwhelm mid tones versus an M54 which is smooth all the way. I feel S54 induction is louder than M54 intake induction probably from the individual throttle bodies.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Nice write up. Adding a link to a product I've been using on most of my cars for the last 6-8 years.
    Here is their how-to guide.

    http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html

    I tend to be a bit more heavy on the mat material and get as much on the surface (inside of door, etc. as I can). This does add more weight.

    I all just did under my rear seat.
    The OE dampening material is pretty thin in the doors and under the rear seat. And by this point the under seat stuff is pretty brittle. I did not cover over the two fuel tank access ports with the mat, but left the OE rubber. I did however cover them with the liner but cut a circle out in case I need to access it later.






  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,588
    I want to for sure do that with my car when I have more time. When I had to do fuel pump and jet pump diagnosing, my car's OEM rubber liner crumbled like dried up chewing gum!! So most of it is in the garbage.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Rovert View Post
    I want to for sure do that with my car when I have more time. When I had to do fuel pump and jet pump diagnosing, my car's OEM rubber liner crumbled like dried up chewing gum!! So most of it is in the garbage.
    Same here. I left the crumbs there until today.... I wish I'd thought to do my rear deck while I had it out to paint it a few months ago. I saw a guy on the FB page did his (but didn't paint it)...

    I need to do my trunk next.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    Thanks for posting this, Trevor!

    Definitely will do this when I finally commit to either keeping my ZHP interior or swapping over to my M3 interior.

    When you pulled back the foam liner on the doors to access the sheet metal itself, did you reseal it with anything or did you just use the same stuff that was already there? Also, what's up with the tennis ball?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    419
    Thanks for this! when I added dynamat I just applied it to the door cards, I think I'm going to get some more and apply it to the actually doors like you did, as well as under the rear seats like Shawn did.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Shawn, 801

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,588
    Just used the razor blade to cut it free so there is some black stuff on the door and the vapor barrier. Then just press it all back down when closing it back up! My passenger size was not even sealed up at the bottom but no water leaked in so I just duct taped it back along with whatever black sealant that stuck. In hindsight you should have new sealant ready to go to replace if the existing sealant if dry and can't stick anymore.

    Tennis ball was to massage the dynamat onto the panel!
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

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