Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scranton, PA
    Posts
    139

    Wheel Lock Issues, my poor CSL's...

    So a few weeks ago, I had ew tires mounted to my summer wheels. A set of VMR CSL reps. All went well, I gave the job to my usual shop, and they mounted and balanced the tires without issue. Zero scratches.

    Fast forward to a few days ago, and I decide to repaint my brake calipers back to silver to hide all of the rust from winter. I come to find out that my wheel locks look a bit worn, and to make matters worse, they're torqued to well beyond 87 ft/lbs. (I think they're torqued to somewhere around 200+ ft/lbs, my buddy's air tools were no use so they must be good and tight) It took my brother and I about twenty minutes to remove just one. He had to apply pressure into the wheel to keep the key in contact with the bolt while I tried to remove it with a 3ft breaker bar and iron cheater bar. Not fun, so I decide to give my shop a call and drop the car off to them the next morning so they can just remove them for me with the air gun. Bad idea

    While trying to get the remaining 3 wheel locks off, my shop ruined my key, and probably stripped all of the lock bolts. And to make matters worse, they nicked one of my CSL's with a deadblow hammer trying to squeeze a socket over it.




    It doesn't look that bad in the picture, but its a deep gouge, not a scratch that I could simply touch up. Needless to say I'm pissed. So after screaming at this guy who I watched hit my wheel with his hammer; I took the car to a local BMW dealer on my shop's dime to have them remove the remaining wheel locks.

    A short talk with the SA later, and my car was in the hands of some BMW techs. They quickly found the right key and had at it. 20min later, my SA walks up to me, and shows me the remains of their dealership key, that is now in 3 pieces in his hand. These bolts are so tight, that even a brand new key couldn't budge them. So I convinced them to order me just a key through the dealer, because apparently you can't just walk off the street and order one. There's no P/N and you have to be a dealer to get it. But my SA was nice, and offered to sell me a spare seeing as how he now had to order a replacement for the dealership.

    What the hell do I do now?

    At this point, I'm basically leaving it up to my local shop. They want to try again with a new key before resorting to more aggresive methods. Which is fine, until it turns out that it doesn't work. The shop already reimbursed me for the new key, and honestly they have been very professional about this whole fiasco. So I am thankful for that. But what are my options here?

    Here is what they did to my old key:


    And this is the one lock bolt I was able to remove. The other 3 are in waaay worse shape:


    I used to work at my buddy's sheet metal shop, so I took the car over there to get some ideas. They reccomended as a last ditch effort to use an EZ out bolt remover, but seeing as the bolts are hardened, and deeply recessed on the rear wheels, it could get hairy. I'm to the point where I'm basically washing my hands of this. It's the shop's fault, so it is now up to them to remedy it as far as I am concerned.

    What say you mafia?

    Sorry for the long post, work is slow, and I'm venting a bit...
    Last edited by niart906; 07-20-2013 at 05:31 PM. Reason: Edited for grammer
    2003 ///M3 6spd Jet Black/Cinnamon (I loan valve adjustment tools! PM me...)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    605
    Sorry to hear about your ordeal niart! Glad that your shop is taking good care of you and the wheel key. Let's hope for the best at this point. What brand are those wheel locks? They appear to look like McGards (correct me if I'm wrong). I like the OEM BMW wheel locks as an alternative if you aren't content with the current. I'd recommend using hand tools for the wheel lock removal and installations (imo).
    trancenation's Alpine Weiss ZHP

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scranton, PA
    Posts
    139
    ^They're actually OEM BMW wheel locks. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...32&hg=36&fg=25

    I normally only install and uninstall these by hand and with a torque wrench set at 87 ft/lbs. So I know this is not of my doing. I have had those off many times before without issue.
    I even mentioned to my shop about how I thought it was a bit crazy to torque the wheel locks down with air tools.
    2003 ///M3 6spd Jet Black/Cinnamon (I loan valve adjustment tools! PM me...)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    605
    Oh woops, I had no idea. We have these oem ones: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-...s/OEM/ES65870/ on our E46 M3 currently. A little different pattern.
    trancenation's Alpine Weiss ZHP

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    6,871
    What's with the mafia and wheels recently! Seriously.

    Hope it all gets worked out, buddy. Shops fault. I don't torque my wheels to any specific torque, just use the tool in the tool kit and go as far as my hands will take me. Never had issues.
    In the market for an E90 M3

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scranton, PA
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by trancenation View Post
    Oh woops, I had no idea. We have these oem ones: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-...s/OEM/ES65870/ on our E46 M3 currently. A little different pattern.
    When I get these off, I think these are the locks I will replace them with. I like the design of these alot more, they look alot harder to strip.
    2003 ///M3 6spd Jet Black/Cinnamon (I loan valve adjustment tools! PM me...)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,213
    Wow, for a sec I thought the bolts could have rusted and fused, but you said these were only installed a few weeks ago! Man, that shop should completely reimburse you for their screw up. Oh, did they try to remove the other non-keyed tire bolts (5/hub) as well? I would suspect they were all torqued to the same amount, or are only the keyed bolts affected???

    Good luck!
    Fuelly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    You could try to torque the piss out of the adjacent bolts to see if it will help relieve the torque on the keyed bolt.

    HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scranton, PA
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    139
    Quote Originally Posted by BavarianZHP View Post
    Wow, for a sec I thought the bolts could have rusted and fused, but you said these were only installed a few weeks ago! Man, that shop should completely reimburse you for their screw up. Oh, did they try to remove the other non-keyed tire bolts (5/hub) as well? I would suspect they were all torqued to the same amount, or are only the keyed bolts affected???

    Good luck!
    The other bolts will come out, but they're on there good and tight.

    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    You could try to torque the piss out of the adjacent bolts to see if it will help relieve the torque on the keyed bolt.

    HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA
    This sounds like a good idea, but the other bolts are already extremely tight. So I would be worried about damaging the hub or the alum. wheel.
    2003 ///M3 6spd Jet Black/Cinnamon (I loan valve adjustment tools! PM me...)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    the socket method is usually the best way. otherwise, you can get someone to weld a hex end to it, and then remove it that way. either way will work (went through the same ordeal on a customer's car). socket is cheaper, more work. but iono if you want the shop to do it and risk damaging the wheel again lol

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