Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
    Well, in my opinion....I didn't like the Z2s

    As well, my earlier posts regarding a rear bar...I have since added one to remove understeer
    On the 1?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Cleveland/Dayton
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    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    On the 1?
    Yes, on the 1

    The Z2s are hard,IMO to drive at the limit.

    The hard sidewall encourages quick responses, but when the tire reaches ultimate grip there is a very quick fall off and the tire cannot recover.

    I have 1 event on the new RS3s and they are much, much better


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  3. #23
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    Sep 2011
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    Thanks for the review Kyle. Will have to look into the RS3s when my tires go out. Have you tried the RE11A yet?

  4. #24
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    Jan 1970
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    Cleveland/Dayton
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    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    Thanks for the review Kyle. Will have to look into the RS3s when my tires go out. Have you tried the RE11A yet?
    I've driven on them with a Miata. Not really that impressed....not a top competitor of the go to tires IMO


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  5. #25
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    Sep 2011
    Location
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    I will have to try RS3s.


    My current sway bar setting:

    Full Stiff UUC front non-M sway bar

    stock M3 rear bar.


    The front feels planted and ultimately there isn't much understeer.

  6. #26
    I used to auto-x a lot with a 3.46 and 3.38 open diff and was always competitive. I ran both TC Kline DA's and AST 4100's on varying spring rates from 500-550F and 550-650 R. Once my spring rates were that high the number one mod that had me gaining real time on people I had always benchmarked around the same times was removing the rear swaybar. It goes like this, when your car is leaning hard the sway bar picks up the inside rear tire causing the one wheel peel. Without the rear sway and stiff rear springs the inside tire stays in contact more and helps get power down through turns, and a stiffer front sway will help too.

  7. #27
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    Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBlaze View Post
    I used to auto-x a lot with a 3.46 and 3.38 open diff and was always competitive. I ran both TC Kline DA's and AST 4100's on varying spring rates from 500-550F and 550-650 R. Once my spring rates were that high the number one mod that had me gaining real time on people I had always benchmarked around the same times was removing the rear swaybar. It goes like this, when your car is leaning hard the sway bar picks up the inside rear tire causing the one wheel peel. Without the rear sway and stiff rear springs the inside tire stays in contact more and helps get power down through turns, and a stiffer front sway will help too.
    This is pertaining to an open diff right? With an LSD, it seems like it wouldn't matter.



    I just bought Matt's Hotchkis front sway bar.


    its a 30mm front sway bar.. oh man..

  8. #28
    Btw I have hotchkis and eibach and h&r sway bars. :P

  9. #29
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    Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smilez View Post
    Btw I have hotchkis and eibach and h&r sway bars. :P
    LOL Ray.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Cleveland/Dayton
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    TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying
    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    This is pertaining to an open diff right? With an LSD, it seems like it wouldn't matter.



    I just bought Matt's Hotchkis front sway bar.


    its a 30mm front sway bar.. oh man..
    Yea with an open diff a rear bar would be quite intrusive


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

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