The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[Galapolis]

I may have some used ones in the garage if you want to try them

Was actually gonna ask if I could borrow your non-deadly spring compressors. I feel like I've pushed my luck as far as it goes with my cheapo compressors. Still need to save up for Koni Special Actives though. And I guess that Vincebar is waiting for me too. So much to do...

[ZHPizza]

Was actually gonna ask if I could borrow your non-deadly spring compressors. I feel like I've pushed my luck as far as it goes with my cheapo compressors. Still need to save up for Koni Special Actives though. And I guess that Vincebar is waiting for me too. So much to do...

Absolutely please use my compressor.

I'm about to pull off my FSD's to install yellows if you want to try those. They're too soft for me so probably will be for you too though.

[t.er]

So I’ve run into this before, and it’s a multi piece puzzle. You have floating calipers, which aren’t as rigid as a fixed caliper, your guide bushings are shot, and your guide pins are stripped.

Your calipers are definitely in need of a rebuild, and I strongly recommend you do them yourself. I rebuilt the 330i calipers I put on my sedan, and you can source the pistons and and piston seal from Rockauto, you want the centric brand for the seal. For the guide pins and bushings, you want to go to the brass guides. Bimmerworld and FCPEuro offer these, here’s a link: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/C...-Calipers.html

The beauty of the brass guides is that they deflect much less under heavy constant load, such as a track environment, preventing your tapered brake pads. It’s about as close as you can get our floating calipers to fixed calipers.

I wouldn’t do another track event with your current brakes, and I strongly suggest you keep a dedicated set of brake pads for only the track.

If you have any questions on rebuilding them, let me know, I’ve done it a couple of times now so I’ve gotten pretty good at it.


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Too late, I've already pre-paid for another lapping session this Friday

To mitigate potential issues I've helicoiled the carriers. The guide pins do tighten up, but not to spec - it feels like it'll strip again if too much torque is applied. Regardless, it's much better than before, where the threads were a clearance hole around the pins, so you could pull them out by hand. I'm also going to cut down stint length from 15-20 minutes, to 5-7 minutes at a time just so I don't get the calipers too hot.



I was thinking of picking up regular ATE rubber bushings, as I've heard mixed reviews on brass ones. How do you like them, and how often do you grease them?

Also when rebuilding calipers, do you happen to know if a tire pump will remove the piston? I do not have a compressor at home.

[Galapolis]

Absolutely please use my compressor.

I'm about to pull off my FSD's to install yellows if you want to try those. They're too soft for me so probably will be for you too though.

If you are willing to sell the FSD's I'll take them. I really liked the ride when I drove your car. Honestly I'd do anything to get away from my current setup. I have stiff Eibach sway bars, so I'm actually specifically looking for a really soft spring/shock combo. I'd encourage you to do a quick test drive in my car. You'll feel how bad it is almost immediately.

Also do you happen to have the Camry RTABS left over?

I was thinking of picking up regular ATE rubber bushings, as I've heard mixed reviews on brass ones. How do you like them, and how often do you grease them?

So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

[t.er]

So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

Hmmm, these street brass guide pins look pretty good since they're sealed - thinking about getting those

[ZHPizza]

If you are willing to sell the FSD's I'll take them. I really liked the ride when I drove your car. Honestly I'd do anything to get away from my current setup. I have stiff Eibach sway bars, so I'm actually specifically looking for a really soft spring/shock combo. I'd encourage you to do a quick test drive in my car. You'll feel how bad it is almost immediately.

Also do you happen to have the Camry RTABS left over?



So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

Yep, the ride is great but I'm chasing better steering response and hoping I can get that by cranking down the yellows. I'll try to get them installed soon and confirm that they're what I'm after so I can send the FSD's your way.

I promised the Camry RTABs to someone else but I may actually have 3 and another one is like $25 so we can figure it out.

Hmmm, these street brass guide pins look pretty good since they're sealed - thinking about getting those

I looked at those too, but liked the ECS version better since it has internal o-rings to keep the grease inside the bushing. Just another part that's sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...067#post593067

[t.er]

I looked at those too, but liked the ECS version better since it has internal o-rings to keep the grease inside the bushing. Just another part that's sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...067#post593067

Oooooh thanks for linking that, I have about $70 credit from ordering the wrong short shift lever 3 years ago, then returning it. If shipping isn't too much then it might be a good buy along with my FCABs that I need, since the Meyle HDs over here are about $30 more expensive. Hmm, time to start thinking about what else to buy to make shipping cross-border worth it...

EDIT: Ugh god, the one bad thing about living in Canada. Shipping for the caliper bushings, install tool, and Meyle HD FCABs is $42 USD. Did a quick online calc for taxes & duties and it's another $40 USD on top of that. Might have to hold off on the caliper bushings for now and just pay the extra $30 to get Meyle HD FCABs locally

[Galapolis]

Yep, the ride is great but I'm chasing better steering response and hoping I can get that by cranking down the yellows. I'll try to get them installed soon and confirm that they're what I'm after so I can send the FSD's your way.

I promised the Camry RTABs to someone else but I may actually have 3 and another one is like $25 so we can figure it out.

Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

The RTABs aren't a priority, I just figured since I need to get an alignment again, I might as well fix my current RTABs, especially since you have the right tool. What would your recommendation be? I just need the squeaking to stop before I become crazy.

[t.er]

Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

FWIW I have Meyle RSMs, no complaints from me so far. But I only have 20,000 km on them, along with 7 or 8 autox, and ~180 km of hard track driving

[ZHPizza]

Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

The RTABs aren't a priority, I just figured since I need to get an alignment again, I might as well fix my current RTABs, especially since you have the right tool. What would your recommendation be? I just need the squeaking to stop before I become crazy.

The stock bump stops can be cut down to whatever length you want. I don't know that you need to on this car though. We have a good amount of suspension travel with stock springs or your eibachs.

I went with the Rogue RSMs and am happy that I did. They address a lot of the shortcomings of the stock RSMs while still providing good isolation. They're sleeved for 10mm shocks but can be used with 12mm without the sleeve, so you maintain some flexibility down the road.

There's really only two good options for the RTABs and they both have their strengths/weaknesses: OE rubber with limiters (I prefer Vorshlag limiters because they're made of UHMW, which is naturally lubricating and will never squeak) or spherical bearings. There is a lot of good discussion on the two across this forum and e46f, but it boils down to the sphericals being amazing but you pay the price when you hit an edge that hits the tire with a rearward force, which gets directed into the body via the solid bearing connection. Think like the front edge of a bridge - that gives a loud clang through the whole chassis. It's awful but they're wonderful over up/down transitions (railroad tracks) and make the rear end super planted coming out of a corner.