Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #8011
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,160
    I am planning to do my OFHG along with an oil change and was wondering what else I should consider doing while I'm in there?

    I'm using a few resources to do it, but FCP Euro has this OFHG replacement kit with a lot of parts, a lot of which seem overkill: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...s-line-bmw-e46

    Thoughts?

  2. #8012
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    I am planning to do my OFHG along with an oil change and was wondering what else I should consider doing while I'm in there?

    I'm using a few resources to do it, but FCP Euro has this OFHG replacement kit with a lot of parts, a lot of which seem overkill: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...s-line-bmw-e46

    Thoughts?
    The obvious items are belts and pulleys and tensioners. If you want to replace the bolts, make sure they’re genuine BMW. The bolts I got with my replacement tensioner snapped while I was torquing it, so I reused the old one.
    The fcp kit doesn’t seem too overkill to me. The coolant sensor gasket I think does start to leak at some point (I could be wrong) and the oil line they recommended changing does leak slightly on my car and I probably should’ve replaced it. But I think you’re fine reusing the bolts which is what I did.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  3. #8013
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,160
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    The obvious items are belts and pulleys and tensioners. If you want to replace the bolts, make sure they’re genuine BMW. The bolts I got with my replacement tensioner snapped while I was torquing it, so I reused the old one.
    The fcp kit doesn’t seem too overkill to me. The coolant sensor gasket I think does start to leak at some point (I could be wrong) and the oil line they recommended changing does leak slightly on my car and I probably should’ve replaced it. But I think you’re fine reusing the bolts which is what I did.
    Okay, good to know. I'll pass on the pulleys/tensioners and belts as those are up to date, and I replaced the VANOS oil line previously. So it sounds like I should maybe grab the bolts and the sensors? Any preferences/suggestions on brands for the sensors?

  4. #8014
    Bolts if you want to replace, I’d go genuine BMW for sure. Not worth the hassle of snapping a bolt.

    Sensors I might go with OE supplier but haven’t replaced those on my car, so just stating what I would do.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  5. #8015
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    722
    Don't forget the crush washers for that VANOS hose, even if you're reusing the hose.

  6. #8016
    Check the upper/lower intake boots for cracking, and the fuel pressure reg vacuum line on the F connector in the intake boot. Also worth inspecting the DISA while you're in there for a loose flap or failed vacuum bladder.

    Might also want to consider replacing the CCV while you're in there since you'll have about half the parts you need to remove already taken off. If you go that route, it's a good time to do the VCG as well since you'll have that CCV line disconnected from the valve cover.

    I am down a similar rabbit hole right now replacing all the same parts on my daily driver 325i sedan. Most of it I've already replaced at least once before so the parts are free with FCP's warranty.

  7. #8017
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,160
    Quote Originally Posted by ///Mark_D View Post
    Check the upper/lower intake boots for cracking, and the fuel pressure reg vacuum line on the F connector in the intake boot. Also worth inspecting the DISA while you're in there for a loose flap or failed vacuum bladder.

    Might also want to consider replacing the CCV while you're in there since you'll have about half the parts you need to remove already taken off. If you go that route, it's a good time to do the VCG as well since you'll have that CCV line disconnected from the valve cover.

    I am down a similar rabbit hole right now replacing all the same parts on my daily driver 325i sedan. Most of it I've already replaced at least once before so the parts are free with FCP's warranty.
    All good suggestions - thankfully I've replaced the upper and lower intake boots already, rebuilt the DISA valve recently, and same with the VCG. Haven't touched my CCV but I don't think I'll have time this weekend to do that.

    Good luck on your repairs/maintenance!

  8. #8018
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    639
    Question for anyone who has done a heated seat retrofit: do I need to do my own wiring, or can I use the wires from the donor vehicle?

    Context: I am looking at some new seats for my zhp. They have lumbar support and heated function. My zhp currently has none of these options. I am wondering how simple it will be to transfer the the seats over to my car and integrate heated seat functionality.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  9. #8019
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    536
    It would be easier to wire your own in my opinion, assuming you have wires and buy some terminals. On a donor car, the heated seat bits will be intertwined with the main harness.

    One fat one thin from each seat to center console. Then thick ground to a ground terminal under the seat.

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