Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #3911
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    2,973
    I've z4m bushings and noticed a bit better turn in.

    I got them mostly because they say the solid rubber lasts longer than fluid filled ones.

    I told my shop about the bushings when I got an alignment. No problems.


    His: 05 330 ZHP Imola Red - 07 Z4 M Coupe Imola Red
    Hers: 04 330i ZSP
    2004 325 M56 Steel Blue Metallic - Sold
    Stephen's DD & AutoX/HPDE Build Thread
    Stewart WP - Z4M LCAB - M3 trans/motor mounts - DICE MediageBridge Duo - ARC-8 17x8.5"
    DrVANOS - Mason Engineering Race Strut Bar - E30 Exp. Cap - Custom Black+Beige Interior - M3 Seats
    Bilstein PSS10 - Turner Sway Bars 27/21 - ECST RTAB Limiters - R.E. RSM


  2. #3912
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Sterling, VA 20165
    Posts
    431
    I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

    1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
    2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
    3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

    Two questions:

    1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
    2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

    Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.

    2004 ZHP Acquired: February 5, 2017
    Lorenzo's Project Thread

  3. #3913
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    95% sure Sachs and BMW are one and the same for the ZHP.

    I'd say get the Koni Yellows, I really like mine. They're supposed to last longer (50k vs. 100k miles), they are adjustable, and they come with a factory warranty that is basically lifetime. However, you could get a lifetime warranty if you purchased the BMW shocks through FCP Euro, so Sachs might be a perfectly good option.

    That said, at 150k+ miles on the original shocks means they're surely shot, and either option will make it feel like a new car. I'd also suggest bushings if you haven't replaced those already (I recall you've done some maintenance stuff already).

    EDIT: Forgot to add how I feel about my Konis in terms of actual performance and comfort. The ride quality is definitely improved compared to my worn factory shocks, and the performance is better as well, the car feels much more planted. It was initially stiff at 3/4 from soft setting, but it has settled a bit and is more supple now. I really like the balance I currently have between ride comfort and performance; it makes for a great daily driver that can still be caned in the twisty back roads. It is on stock springs so ride height is factory. One of my favorite "upgrades" to my car. You can read about it more here in my suspension refresh thread that I always post here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...miles-10-years
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 02-28-2017 at 08:02 AM.

  4. #3914
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    95% sure Sachs and BMW are one and the same for the ZHP.
    Yup, Sachs is OEM.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  5. #3915
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,921
    Quote Originally Posted by Lorenzo View Post
    I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

    1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
    2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
    3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

    Two questions:

    1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
    2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

    Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.
    Don't bother with the Genuine BMW or Sachs. Both are the same.

    Koni yellow if you plan on adjusting the dampening. If not Koni FSD.

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  6. #3916
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    I'd go for the Koni yellows. They're less expensive and they are adjustable. Koni makes a damn good shock and they've been around forever. I used them on my 1967 cougar that I had setup for road racing back in the late 70's. They were adjustable then too,
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  7. #3917
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by Lorenzo View Post
    I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

    1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
    2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
    3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

    Two questions:

    1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
    2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

    Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.
    Did you mean to leave off Koni FSD's?

    $614 from Race Consulting Agency

    Might want Yellows if the car is just used for play, though.

  8. #3918
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,847
    Question:

    Does the DC outlet by the ashtray turn off when the car is parked? I have a bluetooth Reciever plugged into it but it seems to never turn off.

    I left it plugged it when I got to work, and when I came out to go get lunch the other day, it was still blinking before I even hit the unlock on the car.

  9. #3919
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    Question:

    Does the DC outlet by the ashtray turn off when the car is parked? I have a bluetooth Reciever plugged into it but it seems to never turn off.

    I left it plugged it when I got to work, and when I came out to go get lunch the other day, it was still blinking before I even hit the unlock on the car.
    Nope -- it's always hot.

  10. #3920
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Nope -- it's always hot.
    +1 - its always hot. If you want a switched supply, you can tap into the homelink connector tucked away within the sunroof motor area. That ways your bluetooth receiver would be out of sight as well as only powered while your car is on.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


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