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Thread: The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

  1. #7391
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Socal
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    I've thought about that, I just wasn't sure if stacking pads was the best idea or if it would seat properly but I guess there isn't really much else I can do. I think I'll try two bottom pads and two upper pads. Should give me around 10mm more height.
    I have doubled stacked the upper pads before. Since the top of the spring is more flat (like the way the spring coils) there was no issues with seating. I think the bottom one might be a little bit harder to align, but should work.

  2. #7392
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
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    178
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    The stock bump stops can be cut down to whatever length you want. I don't know that you need to on this car though. We have a good amount of suspension travel with stock springs or your eibachs.

    I went with the Rogue RSMs and am happy that I did. They address a lot of the shortcomings of the stock RSMs while still providing good isolation. They're sleeved for 10mm shocks but can be used with 12mm without the sleeve, so you maintain some flexibility down the road.

    There's really only two good options for the RTABs and they both have their strengths/weaknesses: OE rubber with limiters (I prefer Vorshlag limiters because they're made of UHMW, which is naturally lubricating and will never squeak) or spherical bearings. There is a lot of good discussion on the two across this forum and e46f, but it boils down to the sphericals being amazing but you pay the price when you hit an edge that hits the tire with a rearward force, which gets directed into the body via the solid bearing connection. Think like the front edge of a bridge - that gives a loud clang through the whole chassis. It's awful but they're wonderful over up/down transitions (railroad tracks) and make the rear end super planted coming out of a corner.
    On my H&R sport springs, I was riding the bump stops for the longest time until I checked and realized that I had 0mm suspension travel, which explained why my ride was so trash. I cut off the first section front and back, checked again, and couldn't believe my eyes. I was STILL riding the bump stops. I cut them again so there's basically nothing left, but I knew in that moment that H&R was dead to me lol. Can't wait to get my Eibachs in. I just think I'm traumatized by the H&Rs, but I guess there isn't much choice again so I'll go ahead and order the bump stops from FCP.

    As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.

    That being said the German guys also say Bilstein is absolute trash so you gotta take their experience with a grain of salt.

    I'm just not stoked about OEM bushings because of both the installation and removal process. Do let me know about the Camry RTAB. A sharp clunk over a few bumps definitely beats the CREAK CREAK CREAK every 5 seconds.

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    I have doubled stacked the upper pads before. Since the top of the spring is more flat (like the way the spring coils) there was no issues with seating. I think the bottom one might be a little bit harder to align, but should work.
    That's great news, I'll go ahead and order another set of pads. Thanks!
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  3. #7393
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    275
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Oooooh thanks for linking that, I have about $70 credit from ordering the wrong short shift lever 3 years ago, then returning it. If shipping isn't too much then it might be a good buy along with my FCABs that I need, since the Meyle HDs over here are about $30 more expensive. Hmm, time to start thinking about what else to buy to make shipping cross-border worth it...

    EDIT: Ugh god, the one bad thing about living in Canada. Shipping for the caliper bushings, install tool, and Meyle HD FCABs is $42 USD. Did a quick online calc for taxes & duties and it's another $40 USD on top of that. Might have to hold off on the caliper bushings for now and just pay the extra $30 to get Meyle HD FCABs locally
    Ended up buying the Condor Speed Shop bushings all because of shipping cost. Only $11 USD for snail mail, I paid $20 USD for "2 day" shipping with DHL. Since it's made in USA import duties are only $12.

    The longer design with caps is certainly much better with grease retention than the short exposed ones. I don't mind re-greasing them once in a while, since I seem to swap tires every 2 or 3 weeks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.
    Hmm yeah I have poly RTABs, perhaps I should keep a close eye on the pockets. I haven't had any issues with them so far, with 7-8 autox and 1 hard track day. That being said I did see a video (that I cannot currently find) where an E46 had complete failure on track, the rear end jumped up in the air like a horse. At least on the English-speaking forums, I don't really see issues with E46s, just E36s as its a lot more common with those cars (as is rear shock towers cracks)
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  4. #7394
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,770
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Hmm yeah I have poly RTABs, perhaps I should keep a close eye on the pockets. I haven't had any issues with them so far, with 7-8 autox and 1 hard track day. That being said I did see a video (that I cannot currently find) where an E46 had complete failure on track, the rear end jumped up in the air like a horse. At least on the English-speaking forums, I don't really see issues with E46s, just E36s as its a lot more common with those cars (as is rear shock towers cracks)
    +1 This was a huge problem on the e36 but that video is the only failure that I've seen from the e46

    Bear in mind the car was built for track-only and had been heavily abused for 17 years at the time of failure

    Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zPECASIrs

    Discussion: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-failure-story

    With limiters you're still isolating the body with the rubber bushing so I can't imagine it having any effect on the e46. I could definitely see it with a spherical bearing for the reasons mentioned above, but there are hundreds if not thousands of e46's on the track with spherical bearing RTABs.

    I'm not gonna sweat it until my 15th track season lol

  5. #7395
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
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    178
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Hadn't seen that video yet, thanks for sharing. OE M3 bushings without limiters are sounding very attractive right now.

    EDIT: Actually I need some help with the rear bump stop. FCP says this is not for sport suspension: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ar-33531136395

    But it doesn't explicitly say sport suspension on the alternative: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...06757047-vaico

    Is that second one the correct part for sport or M package suspension?
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  6. #7396
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    You can get the kit which includes the bump stop and the plastic boot.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  7. #7397
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,770
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Hadn't seen that video yet, thanks for sharing. OE M3 bushings without limiters are sounding very attractive right now.

    EDIT: Actually I need some help with the rear bump stop. FCP says this is not for sport suspension: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ar-33531136395

    But it doesn't explicitly say sport suspension on the alternative: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...06757047-vaico

    Is that second one the correct part for sport or M package suspension?
    Fyi the FSD kit came with bump stops and bellows for the rear:



    Looks like I reused the front stuff though

  8. #7398
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    275
    Braking issues continue. Has anyone encountered these errors?

    ABS:
    - 5E1A CAM DME/DDE Signal Error
    - 5E1F PT-CAN chassis number wrong/ECU not initialized
    - 5E16 CAN Timeout instrument cluster
    - 5E5D Brake_fluid_level low/Switch faulty

    LEW:
    - 0B Wrong LWS-ID

    Some symptoms: Started noticing the red ABS light come on intermittently on track after using ABS. I didn't notice that before, but chalked that up as just a light that comes on when you use ABS a lot. No lights on the drive home, but today just driving around town I got the orange DSC light, and the red ABS light. Turned the car off, DSC light went away, but ABS light was still there. ABS still works. Got home and cleared all the codes, did a couple more ABS stops and the red ABS light came on again, but went away after a few seconds. Re-checked and still no codes.

    Did some searching but at this point it could be a number of things. I have been taking advantage of ABS pretty heavily throughout my autox'ing and track. Until recently I haven't had any issues, but I'm thinking that with my pad taper and resultant very squishy pedal, the ABS module thinks the brake fluid is low, perhaps the other codes come along with that fault. What's puzzling me is the last code, which is new, not sure how the LWS-ID can randomly change.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  9. #7399
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    275
    Those with brass brake caliper bushings, how much play was there between the bushing and the caliper? I installed mine today and you can easily slide the bushing back and forth axially between the shoulder and the circlip, as there is an extra 3-4 mm in length than the caliper itself (seen in pic below). Seems like that fitment is looser than the bushing to the pin itself, so I would think the caliper would slide on the bushing before the pin on the bushing.

    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  10. #7400
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    178
    There was no play on mine. I had to hammer mine in due to the tight tolerances. I used the BavAuto kit.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

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