Yes, I experience trouble shifting into 2nd at higher RPMs. I've believed it was just me being a bit rusty at shifting a manual again, but would be interested to learn if there is a reason beyond pilot-error at play here ;-)
Do you still have the clutch delay valve in there? That could cause that...
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
It'll happen to me if I'm shifting really quickly. Not sure if it's from the slop in my shifter, but I'm probably going to follow Peter's "bulletproof" shifter refurb to see what difference it makes.
Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual
Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots
Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors
I thought it just took some time for the revs to drop enough.
2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
The clutch delay valve (CDV) connects the hard line to the soft line of the clutch line. I believe it's designed to help reduce clutch wear by slowing the movement of the clutch hydraulic fluid (brake fluid in our cars) and thus the engagement of the clutch. It makes the clutch grab point mushy. Removing it is pretty easy and makes clutch pedal feel much better.
Below is one DIY. He uses a replacement CDV that is modified with a larger bore. You don't have to do that, you can simply remove the factory CDV and directly connect the soft line to the hard line.
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/cdv.php
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers