Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #5501
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    613
    Quote Originally Posted by papa_g View Post
    if akebonos fade easily, would running drilled rotors help to reduce the fade?
    I would say slotted before drilled. But if you're saying that because of what I said, I can't recommend the PFC-Z pad enough (bimmerworld only). Lot of modulation when cold, but one hard stop and it bites at the top for the rest of your life. The dust is comparable to OEM but its the pad that never gives up. I know I am in a 328 but I am running 330 brakes. Just my two cents on pads if you're in the market. I did a CCA drive and was hustling behind an 11 ZCP M3 and experienced no fade. It can start to squeal a bit after lots of aggressive stopping but it goes away when they cool back down.

  2. #5502
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    Ok good to know. I actually have akebono ceramics and zimmermann drilled coming, so kinda stuck with them now. But I am not an aggressive braker, and I think anything will be better than my current situation. Previous owner "pad slapped" the brakes, so i running original rotors on new pads; braking power is there, but only when pressing hard. Also the squealing is driving me crazy
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  3. #5503
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by papa_g View Post
    if akebonos fade easily, would running drilled rotors help to reduce the fade?
    My understanding, from everything I’ve seen, read, and heard, is drilled rotors are really about aesthetics, and slotted rotors are for performance (drilled discs crack). Admittedly that’s more about extreme-stress driving, but I’ve never been able to look past that fact.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  4. #5504
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I would say slotted before drilled.
    There have been endless debates on this, but one thing is for sure; Slotted rotors do not reduce brake fade. If anything - they worsen the condition.

    Plain rotors, with respect to heat dissipation, are better than slotted. Slotted rotors increase the coefficient of friction, thereby adding heat. Sure, they're 'better' because they improve braking power, but at the cost of increased heat. (There's also some benefit from slotted/drilled rotors because they remove any gas buildup between the rotor and pad when the pad material off-gasses at high temps.)

    Best way to reduce brake fade: Bigger, thicker rotors (more mass) and cooling ducts. The performance benefit of drilled rotors is debatable, and if you buy a cheap product you're likely to experience cracking/failure. Porsche has been putting drilled rotors on their cars for decades... They serve more than one purpose, and I guarantee you the original intent was not for 'looks,' but they're a much higher quality product than all the crap that makes its way over here from China.

    (ps: if you've ever seen F1 rotors (prior to the advent of carbon-ceramics) they have never used drilled or slotted rotors.)
    Last edited by cornercarver; 03-22-2018 at 07:38 AM. Reason: added post script

  5. #5505
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Portland, Maine, USA area
    Posts
    840
    I ran drilled Zimmermans on my previous car (Porsche fwiw) with no difficulty except that the holes would sometimes cause freezing/filling problems in winter. I wasn't driving the car on the track so fade wasn't something I had experience with. The biggest benefit I saw was in wet driving, and the improvement there was substantial. I never encountered cracking or warping. I think some members of the online group warned about warping, whether from direct experience or hearsay I can't recall.
    2006 6MT Coupe, Alpine White • Premium, Cold Weather and Xenon packages
    MFactory 3.38 LSD • 27mm M3 bar • ECS strut brace • Koni FSD's


    Other tweaks: see my profile




  6. #5506
    Yay or Nay?

    https://www.apexraceparts.com/access...nter-caps.html

    Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  7. #5507
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    Yeah, I read that drilled rotors can help with the water issue.

    Anyway, I ordered Zimmermann blanks and Stoptech Sport pads. Meanwhile, I'm taking it easy on my brakes.

  8. #5508
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    Yay or Nay?

    https://www.apexraceparts.com/access...nter-caps.html

    Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm not really feeling those red ones. You want red vs the BMW std ones?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  9. #5509
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    2,202
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    Yay or Nay?

    https://www.apexraceparts.com/access...nter-caps.html

    Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I can't seem to find any good pictures of those caps on a set of apex wheels. I'm leaning towards no, but if I actually saw a good photo of them it might change my mind.

    I love red caps on red cards and more specifically, white cars with silver wheels just like Derbos M3. That tiny red accent really pops off the car, like Dimples of Venus on a woman's lower back.
    2005 Jet Black 6MT ZHP "Family First"
    ~Rob~

  10. #5510
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    I'm not really feeling those red ones. You want red vs the BMW std ones?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I think I’ll stick with the bmw ones I have. Just thought il see what you guys thought...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

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