The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[ZHPizza]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...view-analysis/

[BMWCurves]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...view-analysis/

You need beers to do this? I admire mine every couple of hours.

[ZHPizza]

You need beers to do this? I admire mine every couple of hours.

do u use mirrors?

[BMWCurves]

do u use mirrors?

wut r those

[danewilson77]

You don't need an oil pan baffle unless you are experience sustained high g cornering, such as a track or autocross course. Save your money.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Because racecar

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[papa_g]

I just got finished cleaning my oil pan for the gasket job. Looks like it has a mild version of a baffle; deep depression and thin metal sleeve thing for the oil suction thing. Also I learned that a good 1/2 quart of oil stays in the pan even after draining for an hour.

[az3579]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...view-analysis/

Stock brake pads are extremely inadequate for track use. You need a proper set of "streetable" track pads OR full blown track pads to withstand track usage.

The heat buildup starts in the pads, which then transfers to the rotors. Stock rotors are fine for track use, so your bottleneck appears to be the pads. Also make sure you have brake fluid that can withstand the higher temps the brake pads and rotors are putting out. I would recommend ATF Typ 200 (the gold stuff) if you're just starting out. This fluid is perfectly fine for street use too, but make sure to bleed this stuff more regularly than regular brake fluid. I think regular fluid can go 2 years. I would change this fluid out at least yearly. Personally I change it out before every event...

I would say a decent pad to upgrade to is something like EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+, IF you are still a beginner. If you are a more advanced student carrying a lot more speed, you'll need something more durable. I use PFC11's on my car, which is a full blown track pad, and swap them out just for the track.

[3LiterStraightSix]

Does anyone else find that stock pads make a ridiculous amount of brake dust?

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[holyc0w]

Does anyone else find that stock pads make a ridiculous amount of brake dust?

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Yes, they do.

[Newjack]

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.