PA SOFT: How to reprogram our temp gauge

[terraphantm]

In other words, what's posted from e46 fanatics is for pre facelift cars?

Do you think I should grab your post and add it to the end of the first post? We want to be sure that ZHP people code their cars correctly, after all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

There are at least 3 variants that I know of

Prefacelift (99-01)
Early "facelift" (02-03? My ZHP was July 03 and had the later variant... also note that this can include preface coupes)
Late facelift (03ish+)

The first post applies to the early facelift variant. The post I linked to applies to late facelift. I'm not sure how to do it on the 99-01 models, but I can figure it out if I get a couple dumps (ideally one M3 and non non-M). Also keep in mind that old cars may have newer clusters if it was ever replaced. Also if I get a few late 02 and early 03 dumps, I (or anyone else I guess) can figure out when the cutoff was. I suspect it was March 2003 since a lot of stuff changed at that time

[NorCalZman]

Thanks for the clarification!

[derbo]

I bought my pasoft from newegg

sent from Moto X Dev edition

[johnrando]

Glad to hear it worked for you BP. Looking forward to this.

[ELCID86]

I tried it today after reading the link provided by Terra. This works like a charm!
It's going to take quite a while to get used to the coolant temp gauge staying on the cold side for such a long time while warming up as it is showing the correct temps now. When you shut the car off (in the winter), very shortly, the needle moves down quite a bit, where before it would stay in the middle after starting the car back up because of that wide temperature range it previously had.

It is most definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I just hope I won't freak out when it starts to rise towards the right-side when I'm on the track in the summer!

Nice. Want to start a To Do list for the Mafia Reunion?? I'm in!

[alexandre]

Nice. Want to start a To Do list for the Mafia Reunion?? I'm in!

I have all these cables too so I'll be able to do some coding at the meet


iP4S + TT2

[ELCID86]

I have all these cables too so I'll be able to do some coding at the meet


iP4S + TT2

Awesome. I need to get my seat belt beeper turned back on too (I hope this is the problem).

[Crickett]

Wow; with this and recoding the speedo, I have got to get myself a BMW Scanner!

Does anybody have good info on what temp (or temp range) is “too cold” and “overheated” for our cars/engine? I know the general wisdom is “don’t flog the engine until it’s warmed up”, but what temp is “warmed up”? And on the other end, how hot is too hot/overheated/causing damage? If the t’stat allows 75–113°, perhaps <75° is “warming up” and >115° is approaching damage/overheating?

Personally, I think I would want to program my temp gauge to stay in the blue until it’s “warmed up” and go into the red once it’s a few degrees (~5–10°) above “normal” and trip the light/warning a few degrees before “overheated”.

[NorCalZman]

I think the point of this change is so that for warm up people won't flog the car until the needle is in the middle of the gauge. And for overheating, if it moves to the right at all that would be a very early warning compared to how out gauges are programmed now

[Pip]

You have to be careful when stating "warmed up". The M water temp is warm well before the engine is ready to rock n roll (oil temp). I know part of this is due to a thicker oil and not wanting to stress the engine before it is at the appropriate temp so the 330i might reach the warm temp sooner than the M, but I imagine it is still after the water temp reaches "warm".