steering wheel shakes when braking after NEW OEM rotors are installed

[billyjack]

I would just like to add one thing... Personally, I would stop using any mechanic that tells you to reuse old brake pads on new rotors. If you're trying to save some nickels, then sure, I get it, but seriously... That's kind of like reusing an oil filter... Ok, maybe not THAT bad, but still...

Wear parts should always be replaced as a set...

But, get on those FCABs and you should be good!

I was thinking the same thing. I guess it saves money but I'd rather save more money and not replace the rotors either until the pads are ready. Which could have been viable if the diagnosis is worn FCAB's. Either way I'd take the above advice to jack the wheel up.

[tkundhi]

Was mentioned by others, start by checking the FCAB. If they are fine, you might have one other possibility other than worn rotors. Pad deposit on the rotors. Do you know what kind of pads are on the car? If the PO put an aggressive pad that requires a high operating temp and the brakes don;t get up to that temp, it could result in to much pad compound building up on the rotors.

The fact the vibration is going away when you are braking really hard leads me to think its your pads. I don't recall FCAB vibrations stopping with increased pedal pressure.

t.

[danewilson77]

I know Bruce is in the area. He could easily diagnose and repair in about an hour.

Kids play for him.

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[jakksfor20]

One thing that you mentioned is you took it easy on the pads for 200 miles. That's a good recommendation for ceramic pads........My guess is deposits on the rotors. Do a bed-in procedure on them and see if it goes away. Get up to 45-50 mph, brake quickly down to 5mph not locking them up then accelerate back to 45-50 mph at a decent acceleration. Do that 6-8 times.

Pads and rotors, pads and rotors, pads and rotors........ say it with me.

[Lanister]

I appreciate the input guys. I did some google searching and found a video of an e46 parked, and then someone using a wheel lugnut wrench to test for any play in the wheel while its parked. Movement in the wheel was a symptom of a bad FCAB. Is there an easy way to tell if one caliper is not activating at the same time as the other side? Perhaps one caliper doesnt retract all the way? The dealer said on the phone (they havent seen the car) that it could be one caliper is partially seizing and thus not hitting at the same time as the other side and creating a shaking. At all cruising speeds including highway speeds there isnt any shaking unless I need to brake. If I apply the brake softly, I get a lot of steering wheel shake until I either press the brake harder or come to a stop or let off the brake pedal.

Usually, the issue with a seized calipers is that it doesn't let go of the rotor completely so the pads are constantly rubbing, which causes for the rotor to be constantly very hot and eventually warp. It's a common problem in parts of the country where they used salt on roads.

[3ZHPGUY]

If you had a bad caliper, you would see uneven pad/rotor wear. Also the car would pull to the good side when braking. You haven't mentioned any of that and it's most likely the FCAB.

I have experienced that same vibration and replacing my FCAB and front control arms took care of the issue.


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[94jedi]

Glad I looked at this thread. I was going to replace my front rotors due to vibration when braking but considering that my FCAB's have never been replaced and my front rotors are less than 1 year old (and I drive it pretty easy), I'll replace my FCABs first.