AKG Diff Bushing install - need help ASAP!

[az3579]

Does anyone know what orientation the bushings are supposed to be installed in? The kit came with no instructions and AKG doesn't have this info on their site from what I can see.

This is a pic of the bushing. What direction is the ridged side supposed to be facing? The OEM bushings don't have this ridge so I've got no reference...





Thanks in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LivesNearCostco]

BP,
I recently installed similar AKG bushings and emailed them that same question. Their answer was that the little ones are installed from front-to-rear, with the lip towards to the front of the car. The big rear bushing is installed from left to right (driver's side to passenger's side), with the lip on the left (driver's) side. I installed them with a rubber mallet. The instructions were not on their web site that I could find.

[az3579]

BP,
I recently installed similar AKG bushings and emailed them that same question. Their answer was that the little ones are installed from front-to-rear, with the lip towards to the front of the car. The big rear bushing is installed from left to right (driver's side to passenger's side), with the lip on the left (driver's) side. I installed them with a rubber mallet. The instructions were not on their web site that I could find.

Thank you so much for your fast response! We got the two smaller ones in and broke the (makeshift) tool trying to get the big one out. [sigh] Another day without the car I guess...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LivesNearCostco]

If you're using threaded rod or 1/2" bolt, be sure to grease the threads. If using 7/16" bolt, upgrade to 1/2" for the big rear diff bushing! I heard heating up the shell with a heat gun or even hair dryer will make it easier to extract. At least yours isn't welded to the subframe as mine was in two spots...

[az3579]

If you're using threaded rod or 1/2" bolt, be sure to grease the threads. If using 7/16" bolt, upgrade to 1/2" for the big rear diff bushing! I heard heating up the shell with a heat gun or even hair dryer will make it easier to extract. At least yours isn't welded to the subframe as mine was in two spots...

The problem we're having is that the threaded rod wasn't long enough. We were able to thread on the nut maybe 1 turn but of course the nut popped off while trying to extract it and now the nut is nowhere to be found, probably broken.

This means a trip to Home Depot, and of course another day driving someone else's car.

We even tried to torch the bushing out and attempt to cut the races but that would've taken way too long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Damn....and this is what I have to look forward to???

[slater]

The problem we're having is that the threaded rod wasn't long enough. We were able to thread on the nut maybe 1 turn but of course the nut popped off while trying to extract it and now the nut is nowhere to be found, probably broken.

This means a trip to Home Depot, and of course another day driving someone else's car.

We even tried to torch the bushing out and attempt to cut the races but that would've taken way too long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

honestly, cutting the races is not hard/all that bad with the proper tool. a good sawzall (i have a milwaukee with a swivel head) with a long, metal-specific blade will make it into a lot of tight spots. then you just pound it out.

peter

[LivesNearCostco]

If you can't get longer threaded rod or a long 1/2" bolt, then use a shorter receiver cup temporarily that will let you get the bushing started. Be sure to buy at least 2 nuts when you go back to Home Depot! I bought a 3' piece of 7/16" threaded rod and cut it into 3 different lengths for rear control arm bushings and the front diff bushings, but am pretty sure I used a larger 1/2" bolt for the big diff bushing... then a chisel and die grinder, but you probably won't need to resort to those.

In my case, getting the rubber out of the shell wasn't that hard. I just used a pusher on the bolt that was smaller than the shell and a large receiver cup (some old bearing shell the garage loaned me) and the rubber and central metal sleeve pushed out fairly easily without any torching. Unfortunately then I discovered the shell was spot welded to the carrier in 2 spots, and I broke my one sawzall blade while trying to cut the shell from the inside (left a pack of 8 additional sawzall blades at home that day).

[az3579]

We've got a pretty good system set up, a good size receiver and tool to push with, just need the longer threaded rod and another nut or two to try again.
We'll see...

I should probably edit the title and take out "need help ASAP" since the car didn't get finished yesterday anyway.

[Tnhl1989]

Overall verdict on the bushings?