Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimalmo View Post
    BMW approved oil or forget it.

    I have a hard time believing that a local guy, even an extremely competent guy has even a fraction of the engineering experience, test equipment, data analysis, etc, etc as the BMW factory guys in Germany to make a decision that goes against what we already know.
    The BMW documentation doesn't recommend a specific weight, it's a chart.
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  2. #12
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    I never said it did.

    There's a list of approved oils. There's a reason those oils made the list and others didn't.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wsmeyer View Post
    No the higher the number the thicker. They are all rated at a specific starting temp because they all thin out as they heat up. In multi weight oil the second number is its thickness at 100 C. You want an oil to be thin at startup so the oil pump can generate sufficient pressure to properly lubricate. But it's all relative to the starting temp.
    I wrote thinner not thicker

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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Ultimately, it doesn't matter which oil you use, as long as you use the proper weight for your climate and driving conditions, the engines will look and operate identically at 200-300k miles.

    There is absolutely NOTHING you have to worry about regarding them switching to this oil, Wes.


    The BMW LL-01 spec only exists so you know which oil is approved for BMWs extended oil service schedule. If you change your oil more frequently than that, following the LL-01 spec is unnecessary.

    Disagree. There have been reports of lifter tick, sludge buildup, etc when using non-approved oils.

  5. #15
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    Dec 2012
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    My car used OEM oil only up to 69.5k miles. When I popped the valve cover off, there was buildup everywhere. It was bad. VANOS was caked, too. They also followed the BMW OCI that was set by the same guys that engineered the oil.

    Lifter tick happens when tracking all the time, so I don't think it's that big a deal, either.
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  6. #16
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    If your indie is using Mobil1 and changing it every 5k you are fine. If you're gonna run the 15k miles or whatever LL-01 is then no, get an approved oil

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
    My car used OEM oil only up to 69.5k miles. When I popped the valve cover off, there was buildup everywhere. It was bad. VANOS was caked, too. They also followed the BMW OCI that was set by the same guys that engineered the oil.

    Lifter tick happens when tracking all the time, so I don't think it's that big a deal, either.
    I'm pretty sure mine has been using the BMW oil as well....and I just bought some from the dealer! I'll lookout for this buildup when I get in there to do the plugs.

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  8. #18
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    indie shop put Mobil 10W-30 in my car. thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by mimalmo View Post
    Disagree. There have been reports of lifter tick, sludge buildup, etc when using non-approved oils.
    See below.

    Quote Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
    My car used OEM oil only up to 69.5k miles. When I popped the valve cover off, there was buildup everywhere. It was bad. VANOS was caked, too. They also followed the BMW OCI that was set by the same guys that engineered the oil.

    Lifter tick happens when tracking all the time, so I don't think it's that big a deal, either.
    Dario's is a perfect example of the oil not being the culprit. There is an approved oil being used, yet still has sludge buildup. That sludge buildup may or may not be the cause of mileage driven on the oil, or other maintenance habits that attributed to this. Who knows what the history of the car was before he got it.

    So, sludge, lifter tick, and whatever engine problems could easily be attributed to a number of other factors other than the type of engine oil used. Granted, you definitely have to make sure it's synthetic oil as that's what our engines are designed for, but other than these very few reports of miscellaneous oddities there are countless of cases of folks who don't use LL-01 approved oils that are just fine. Just ask anyone who uses a non-approved oil and has an engine that is fine *raises hand*. The ratio of folks that are fine greatly outweighs those who have problems when we talk about using non-approved oils. If this was a concern then this would be as widely known as failing window regulators or burnt ZKW bowls.

    In the case of something like lifter tick - well, you've got to think about how the car is used. Does it get autocrossed? BMWs are notorious for lifter tick after an autox event. Did that owner perhaps run the engine without oil for a little too long? That's been known to happen as well.

    In the end, your engine isn't going to magically give you all sorts of problems by switching to a different weight oil. The weight should be matched to the environment it's running in so as to get optimal protection, regardless of what BMW recommends.

    Just as a side example, Mobil1 0W-40 is a LL-01 oil. Mobil1 is a very reputable brand that's been proven to produce oils that protect engines. So going to a 10W-30 from the same brand isn't reliable anymore just because it's not approved? That doesn't make sense to me.



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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    See below.



    Dario's is a perfect example of the oil not being the culprit. There is an approved oil being used, yet still has sludge buildup. That sludge buildup may or may not be the cause of mileage driven on the oil, or other maintenance habits that attributed to this. Who knows what the history of the car was before he got it.

    So, sludge, lifter tick, and whatever engine problems could easily be attributed to a number of other factors other than the type of engine oil used. Granted, you definitely have to make sure it's synthetic oil as that's what our engines are designed for, but other than these very few reports of miscellaneous oddities there are countless of cases of folks who don't use LL-01 approved oils that are just fine. Just ask anyone who uses a non-approved oil and has an engine that is fine *raises hand*. The ratio of folks that are fine greatly outweighs those who have problems when we talk about using non-approved oils. If this was a concern then this would be as widely known as failing window regulators or burnt ZKW bowls.

    In the case of something like lifter tick - well, you've got to think about how the car is used. Does it get autocrossed? BMWs are notorious for lifter tick after an autox event. Did that owner perhaps run the engine without oil for a little too long? That's been known to happen as well.

    In the end, your engine isn't going to magically give you all sorts of problems by switching to a different weight oil. The weight should be matched to the environment it's running in so as to get optimal protection, regardless of what BMW recommends.

    Just as a side example, Mobil1 0W-40 is a LL-01 oil. Mobil1 is a very reputable brand that's been proven to produce oils that protect engines. So going to a 10W-30 from the same brand isn't reliable anymore just because it's not approved? That doesn't make sense to me.



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    Wow! Well said buddy! Just say +1 isn't enough, I gotta go +10

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  10. #20
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    Here's the cart from the Technical Service Manual

    2006 CiC 6MT
    ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
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