Are those CHROME 135's like Johnrandos?
Are those CHROME 135's like Johnrandos?
BAV Stage 1 - BlueBus - UltraGauge - V1 - Orion V4's - ARC-8's - Brembo 996
TTFS Engine/SMG Tune/CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA - Evolve Eventuri
VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser - OE CSL Trunk - BWS 500S 9k/11k
AMP
2006 330cic ZHP, BSM w/ NB, AT, ECS CF Strut Bar, BMW Performance Intake, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, PosiQuiet Pads
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, 5.7L Hemi, 37" Goodyear MTR's on TWF Double Beadlocks, tons of other mods
1965 VW Beetle, Competition Yellow, working on a 2056cc RAT Type IV transplant, full body - off resto about 10 years ago
Very nice!
Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
"ZHP or not, I still like you"
ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture
Thanks for the kind words, fellas. I know that I haven't tackled anything major with the ZHP yet, but I enjoy tweaking things here and there to make a vehicle more "mine".
I also noticed on the reverse light housing, there is a spot that looks like it could have been made to hold another bulb to illuminate the red area surrounding the reverse light, but is blocked off. Possibly for Euro models? Thinking about adding a small LED or two, to light with the brake lights.
Here is the bulb area, to the left of the reverse bulb in the first pic and below the reverse bulb in the second :
AMP
2006 330cic ZHP, BSM w/ NB, AT, ECS CF Strut Bar, BMW Performance Intake, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, PosiQuiet Pads
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, 5.7L Hemi, 37" Goodyear MTR's on TWF Double Beadlocks, tons of other mods
1965 VW Beetle, Competition Yellow, working on a 2056cc RAT Type IV transplant, full body - off resto about 10 years ago
2005 IR ZHP Alcantara 6MT l Bimmian phone mount l Khoalty Angel Eye's l Khoalty Fog's l AFE Stage 1 Intake l AFE Dynamic Air Scoop's l CDV Delete
Besian Sealed VANOS l Flat black Kidney Grills l Magnaflow Cat-Back
AMP
2006 330cic ZHP, BSM w/ NB, AT, ECS CF Strut Bar, BMW Performance Intake, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, PosiQuiet Pads
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, 5.7L Hemi, 37" Goodyear MTR's on TWF Double Beadlocks, tons of other mods
1965 VW Beetle, Competition Yellow, working on a 2056cc RAT Type IV transplant, full body - off resto about 10 years ago
2005 IR ZHP Alcantara 6MT l Bimmian phone mount l Khoalty Angel Eye's l Khoalty Fog's l AFE Stage 1 Intake l AFE Dynamic Air Scoop's l CDV Delete
Besian Sealed VANOS l Flat black Kidney Grills l Magnaflow Cat-Back
I would agree with this. There are only 2 wires running to the light assembly, and they are the + & - for the reverse light.
But, from the looks of things inside the assembly, they use a common ground. The middle "tab" coming out of the connector runs to both sockets. Then the left and right outermost "tabs" run to the reverse and fog/tail light sockets, respectively.
AMP
2006 330cic ZHP, BSM w/ NB, AT, ECS CF Strut Bar, BMW Performance Intake, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, PosiQuiet Pads
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, 5.7L Hemi, 37" Goodyear MTR's on TWF Double Beadlocks, tons of other mods
1965 VW Beetle, Competition Yellow, working on a 2056cc RAT Type IV transplant, full body - off resto about 10 years ago
So, one of the ZHP's tires developed a slow leak. I break out the trusty air compressor, and as I am airing up I hear the sound of air escaping as I got near 35 PSI.
Off comes the rim/tire, and I find this:
The chalk I used to pinpoint the sound of the air leak, as it was on the back side. So, off to the local Wheel Fix It shop. 3 days and $150 (including repair, mount and balance) I get a straightened and cleaned rim. They had 5 or 6 chalk marks on the tire, showing the multiple places where the rim needed attention.
Well, I couldn't just put one clean rim on the car, so the other three had to come off and be cleaned as well. 9 years of brake dust and road grime is a PITA to remove. And chrome doesn't like brake dust, so the insides of the rims are somewhat pitted. But, after about 3 hours, at least they are relatively clean now.
Here is a before and after pic (or I guess technically it is after and before?)
As a side note, I don't think the spare has ever seen the light of day since being installed in the trunk. It still has the bar-code label on it.
AMP
2006 330cic ZHP, BSM w/ NB, AT, ECS CF Strut Bar, BMW Performance Intake, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, PosiQuiet Pads
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, 5.7L Hemi, 37" Goodyear MTR's on TWF Double Beadlocks, tons of other mods
1965 VW Beetle, Competition Yellow, working on a 2056cc RAT Type IV transplant, full body - off resto about 10 years ago