Check first post. It's done.
Check first post. It's done.
18x8 CSL Wheels / Trunk Lip Spoiler / Painted rear bumper trim / Painted reflectors / Clear corners / Black headlight trim / USA Spec / LED tails / 25% tint
LED license plate lights / Rockord Fosgate upgraded speakers / Kicker Hideaway 8" subwoofer
Wow. Nice job. Looks like it was made to fit there.
Would Velcro tape work? Some on the bottom of the amp and some on the grey trunk liner?
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
So this won't replace the factory subs?
Sent from my GS3.
Porsche 944 Turbo Build
One ride and you'll understand why most rocket scientists are German.
My ZHP Build 2004-2014 RIP
I don't see why that wouldn't work if you wanted to keep it on the floor without bolting it down. I want to use that tray though and be able to remove it in an instant. I think I am going to get 2 "L" brackets, bolt them to the tray, and cover them with soft material. I can use the female side of some velcro I think. Put a few strips on the side of the unit as well. I am going to try to get this done on Sunday.
18x8 CSL Wheels / Trunk Lip Spoiler / Painted rear bumper trim / Painted reflectors / Clear corners / Black headlight trim / USA Spec / LED tails / 25% tint
LED license plate lights / Rockord Fosgate upgraded speakers / Kicker Hideaway 8" subwoofer
18x8 CSL Wheels / Trunk Lip Spoiler / Painted rear bumper trim / Painted reflectors / Clear corners / Black headlight trim / USA Spec / LED tails / 25% tint
LED license plate lights / Rockord Fosgate upgraded speakers / Kicker Hideaway 8" subwoofer
My question is that if your speakers are blown...wouldnt you want to mount this unit in the stock location?
Sent from my GS3.
Porsche 944 Turbo Build
One ride and you'll understand why most rocket scientists are German.
My ZHP Build 2004-2014 RIP
I thought about that and still may do this in the future. The reason I did it this way is because I have that fixed circuit board and I needed a safe place to put it so it wouldn't break so I put it inside the factory sub box for the time being. Also, if you remove the factory sub box, you must relocate that little amp that is connected to the box. That would have to be placed up top somewhere as well. It was just much easier to put everything back to where it was and run the sub elsewhere. That was my situation. I don't see why you couldn't relocate the little factory amp thing up top with a bracket or 2 and put the sub up there. Like I said, if I buy another working amp box, I might relocate this to the top of the trunk. That little amp has to be there. It enables you to receive a speaker signal that has not yet been amplified. You splice in right before that unit.
18x8 CSL Wheels / Trunk Lip Spoiler / Painted rear bumper trim / Painted reflectors / Clear corners / Black headlight trim / USA Spec / LED tails / 25% tint
LED license plate lights / Rockord Fosgate upgraded speakers / Kicker Hideaway 8" subwoofer
Didn't take you long to go for further upgrades....
19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.
18x8 CSL Wheels / Trunk Lip Spoiler / Painted rear bumper trim / Painted reflectors / Clear corners / Black headlight trim / USA Spec / LED tails / 25% tint
LED license plate lights / Rockord Fosgate upgraded speakers / Kicker Hideaway 8" subwoofer
So to recap, you spliced subwoofer output wires (from our stock amp) to the input of the kicker amp? Essentially cut the wires to the original subwoofers and directed them to kicker input. Easy!
325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump
328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet