Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    2,099
    I've got mine half stiff for DD driving. I don't think full stiff would be bad though. I am going to try different settings when I have time.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    2005 IR ZHP Alcantara 6MT l Bimmian phone mount l Khoalty Angel Eye's l Khoalty Fog's l AFE Stage 1 Intake l AFE Dynamic Air Scoop's l CDV Delete
    Besian Sealed VANOS l Flat black Kidney Grills l Magnaflow Cat-Back

  2. #22
    On both my cars I have them set at 15 (half-way) and the ride is comfortable....stiff when need be

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    2,099
    Sent my friend a message about a group buy for you guys.

    Will let you all know when I hear back.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    2005 IR ZHP Alcantara 6MT l Bimmian phone mount l Khoalty Angel Eye's l Khoalty Fog's l AFE Stage 1 Intake l AFE Dynamic Air Scoop's l CDV Delete
    Besian Sealed VANOS l Flat black Kidney Grills l Magnaflow Cat-Back

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    123
    I may be interested in a GB as well.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    197
    Half stiff felt too soft for me personally. It felt like the car wanted to float around over dips on the highway. My rear spring is really short so I have the strut adjusted all the way to its shortest and I still can't set preload.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    5,877
    Quote Originally Posted by 328ioc View Post
    Sent my friend a message about a group buy for you guys.

    Will let you all know when I hear back.
    Sounds good keep us posted!

    Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming.
    BAV Stage 1 - BlueBus - UltraGauge - V1 - Orion V4's - ARC-8's - Brembo 996
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    VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser - OE CSL Trunk - BWS 500S 9k/11k

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    825
    In for a group buy but a couple questions first.

    1. Does the lower spring rate contribute to or make the car have that "ricer" bounce? I don't know exactly what causes that bouncy look on some lowered cars. I do have it and I can't figure out if it is my springs or my settings on my coils. I have that ricer bounce and it pisses me the hell off, especially at night

    2. Are the rear struts threaded and adjustable? Meaning, can I completely thread the strut down into the housing to drop the rear independent of the spring? I can do that now with the set of coils I have but my rears just won't go down any further and I still have a raked look to the car where I want to just sit level front to rear. See the picture of the rear struts on the link below to see what I mean. I can thread the strut down into the strut housing but only "so much", where as I really want to thread it down even more.

    I am running this setup (for non-M3) F2 (Function and Form) http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=271370


    I really have no idea what I am doing

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by bullfrogs_M3 View Post
    In for a group buy but a couple questions first.

    1. Does the lower spring rate contribute to or make the car have that "ricer" bounce? I don't know exactly what causes that bouncy look on some lowered cars. I do have it and I can't figure out if it is my springs or my settings on my coils. I have that ricer bounce and it pisses me the hell off, especially at night
    Good question....not sure but I would guess the lower spring rate will contribute to a more bouncy ride. On my daily commute there's a bridge I have to drive on that is long and bumpy and I feel every bump but my ZHP doesn't bounce. The car is steady as I drive over that bridge and my ZHP is lowered...




    Quote Originally Posted by bullfrogs_M3 View Post
    2. Are the rear struts threaded and adjustable? Meaning, can I completely thread the strut down into the housing to drop the rear independent of the spring? I can do that now with the set of coils I have but my rears just won't go down any further and I still have a raked look to the car where I want to just sit level front to rear. See the picture of the rear struts on the link below to see what I mean. I can thread the strut down into the strut housing but only "so much", where as I really want to thread it down even more.

    I am running this setup (for non-M3) F2 (Function and Form) http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=271370
    There is a lot of adjustment for the rear struts (top strut pictured). I haven't had any issues and had a level setup on my ZHP initially but lowered it and decided to have just a little rake...




    Hope this helps

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    197
    Quote Originally Posted by bullfrogs_M3 View Post
    In for a group buy but a couple questions first.

    1. Does the lower spring rate contribute to or make the car have that "ricer" bounce? I don't know exactly what causes that bouncy look on some lowered cars. I do have it and I can't figure out if it is my springs or my settings on my coils. I have that ricer bounce and it pisses me the hell off, especially at night

    2. Are the rear struts threaded and adjustable? Meaning, can I completely thread the strut down into the housing to drop the rear independent of the spring? I can do that now with the set of coils I have but my rears just won't go down any further and I still have a raked look to the car where I want to just sit level front to rear. See the picture of the rear struts on the link below to see what I mean. I can thread the strut down into the strut housing but only "so much", where as I really want to thread it down even more.

    I am running this setup (for non-M3) F2 (Function and Form) http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=271370
    I miiiiiight have that ricer bounce, and I don't really know what causes it. Then again this is my first coilover setup so your definition of "ricer bounce" may be different than what my car feels like.

    Also for me, the rear strut doesn't adjust down far enough. I have a ton of room on the spring adjuster to lower the car and my lack of adjustment on the strut isn't limiting me from going lower.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    47
    If you're struggling with the ricebounce you are underdamped, turn the socks stiffer until it goes away. It takes some trial and error. Go by one click at a time, it might not need much. Structural dynamics are tricky lol

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