Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 37

Thread: melonz's ZHP

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Mountain View, CA
    Posts
    159
    Today I was vaccuuming the car and when I slammed the trunk closed a puff (more like a small fistful) of green dust came out of the trunk and this fell out lol

    Name:  t0kwtFll.jpg
Views: 220
Size:  74.1 KB

    Checking out the trunk I see this.

    Lol, I guess I need to buy a new part.

    Name:  BvCRm1gl.jpg
Views: 210
Size:  39.9 KB

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,903
    That's major corrosion. Take a volt meter and make sure you can get 12V across the 2 posts. Looks like you'll need some heavy grit sand paper to clean the green stuff off. You may not need a new part.
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,847
    Also double check the trunk latch seal gasket. Mine was leaking from there and was the root cause of the corrosion.

    This is the part number:
    51-13-8-236-267

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    If you are lucky there wires and connectors are still all in good order. Mine were mostly shot and I had to run new wires. I hope to score a replacement handle from the IR part-out car here.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,921
    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    Also double check the trunk latch seal gasket. Mine was leaking from there and was the root cause of the corrosion.

    This is the part number:
    51-13-8-236-267
    Easy to replace?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,847
    Quote Originally Posted by Vas View Post
    Easy to replace?
    i think its like 4 t20 torx bolts to remove. Difficulty 1/10 provided you have torx bits (you should if you own a bmw..lol)

    the gasket cost me $8.04

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    i think its like 4 t20 torx bolts to remove. Difficulty 1/10 provided you have torx bits (you should if you own a bmw..lol)

    the gasket cost me $8.04
    Yeah, that part isn't bad. Taking the handle apart (to rewire, etc) was a tad more difficult.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Mountain View, CA
    Posts
    159
    The connector on the right is basically non-existent. It appears that the green powder that fell on the ground was the contact lol.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Mountain View, CA
    Posts
    159
    So yesterday night I was driving home when I heard a plop plop plop and thank goodness I was just about home. My tires in the passenger rear had a screw in it and was losing air. This morning I took out the donut spare and I was like wow this thing is nice and firm with a smile on my face but when I dropped the car down the donut tire started to really deflate and the rush to get to a tire store that was open began.

    1) I was pretty nervous using the BMW jack as I've never used one before and the fact that the joint was made of plastic. However I'm no longer worried. As long as you have those jack pads you're good (I keep 1 spare in my trunk). It was even at a slight angle and it held its ground.

    2) Check your donut wheel's air pressure!!!! When it got hot it would tighten up a little but definitely not enough. These are ~10 years old so go check em.

    The previous tires on the rear of the car were Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star spec tires 255/35R-18's. In addition to the screw I was down to the wear bar for the rears. Keep in mind these tires were bought in 5/2010 @ 72,745 - it's been nearly 5 years and around ~ 36,000 miles. The fronts are still good.

    I opted for the Bridgestone RE760, mainly since I was just replacing the rears and I would get all 4 changed later when the fronts wore. I wanted to try Yokohama S drive tires but unfortunately wheel works does not carry them anymore and the only other option for the tire size was the Pole Position RE970AS. On the drive home I sort of wished I got the 970's... compared to the Dunlops it was painfully obvious that I was slower off the line as well as braking distance increased - of course expected of tires that cost nearly 2x more than what I got.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Mountain View, CA
    Posts
    159
    Replaced my windshield cowl a few days ago. No need to remove the cabin air filter housing as some DIY's say.

    Lots of leaves found. Second photo was gross.

    Name:  mIbALDxl.jpg
Views: 154
Size:  52.3 KB

    Name:  ik3gIi5l.jpg
Views: 185
Size:  71.8 KB

    Also made sure the arms were in the right place - I searched online prior to consulting the bentley manual and saw that the E90 folks have to angle the blades as well. Didn't find anything about that in the manual so I assume we don't have to.

    Name:  3V2VlAkl.jpg
Views: 186
Size:  40.8 KB

    lol



    Finished
    Name:  pB3oW98l.jpg
Views: 177
Size:  56.2 KB

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •