Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    If the car doesn't reach operating temperature than moisture and condensation builds up in the CCV system, this includes small amounts of oil as well which can then burn off or cause more serious issues (hydrolocking, etc) if left to collect. Hence, the recommendations for "Italian tune ups" in various threads on CCV issues.
    What is an "Italian tune up"?
    Hi, I'm John, and I miss my 6MT Alcantara baby! | 2003 Orient Blue 330i ZHP
    Had: ARC8's | Poly Bushings | Koni Yellows | Perf Brakes | TMS Subframe | Hotchkiss | LOVE!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Alexandria, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by OtterEffect View Post
    What is an "Italian tune up"?
    Basically just drive the car hard. Making sure to get up to redline a few times.

    [ http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_tuneup

    Current:
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  3. #33
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    Basically just drive the car hard. Making sure to get up to redline a few times.
    sounds like almost every drive for me!

    peter
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    I mean, the oil light is not a good indicator with these older cars. It really is a dummy light and the actual sensor can start to fail sending false-positives as it dies. Drive your car normally and when you get home, check your dipstick (be thankful we actually have one!) after about 5 min. Take a picture of where it is (should be at LEAST midway between the two notches) and then check it weekly to confirm any changes. My light was going off every so often until I shifted my commute a bit and switched oils (BMW 5W-30 to Mobil 1 OW-40). Haven't seen it since and with manual checks every week my level has stayed the same.
    Just did what u said... Level seems to be in between the 2 notches... But the light does come on occasionally...

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    When you let the engine sit and idle, it is wearing faster than if you drive it to warm it up. While it's sitting, it isn't warming up as quickly as it should, so the oil doesn't get up to temp fast enough. If you start driving, the amount of time the engine is cold is significantly reduced. So, instead of spending 15 minutes idling with a cold engine, putting extra wear on it, you're only wearing it for maybe 5 minutes while you drive it and warm it up.

    Obviously when you drive it, you really should keep the rpm's low. Personally I shift no later than 1500 when it's cold, but that's not a hard and fast rule.


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    Yup, I am also doing the same...

  6. #36
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    Feb 2014
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    Alexandria, VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    Just did what u said... Level seems to be in between the 2 notches... But the light does come on occasionally...
    Gotcha, well, add a little oil and then check it again in a few days. If it stays the same and the light keeps coming on it's possible the sensor is on its way out.

    Current:
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    Sold:
    "Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
    2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread

  7. #37
    Autozone.com
    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    Gotcha, well, add a little oil and then check it again in a few days. If it stays the same and the light keeps coming on it's possible the sensor is on its way out.
    Will do... Thanks a lot...

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