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Thread: William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

  1. #181
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,148
    I miss my Bimmian mount... I may have to try and put it back in over the winter. Mine got bent by someone's knee hitting it
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,258
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    I miss my Bimmian mount... I may have to try and put it back in over the winter. Mine got bent by someone's knee hitting it
    That's annoying. Originally the bracket felt very sturdy, but just cranking down the flange nut tightly on the mounting bolt made the mount bend around the flange nut quite a bit. You can probably bend it back with some pliers and body weight.

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Picton, ON
    Posts
    6,000
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    That's annoying. Originally the bracket felt very sturdy, but just cranking down the flange nut tightly on the mounting bolt made the mount bend around the flange nut quite a bit. You can probably bend it back with some pliers and body weight.
    unfortunately, with metal, once it's bent it will only get weaker. so it will get bent again with Knee Power.
    peter

    2018 Subaru BRZ RS 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,258
    I decided my car needed a new battery since my car still had the original battery in it and I've been experiencing an interment loud "POP" from the rear speakers when I start the car which some say may be a symptom of a dying battery. I ended up choosing AutoZone's Duralast 94R-DLG battery since it had more CA and CCA than the stock battery and is backed by a five year warranty (3 years parts, 2 years prorated). I ordered online yesterday to pick it up instore and expected it to be available same day, but I got a phone call that the store I selected wouldn't have the battery in stock until today. I went over there this morning and they had my battery ready but when I asked if they do complimentary installs, the employee said they only do it for "easy" installs (see: in the engine bay, no coding, no venting, etc). I had assumed this would be the case so I carried my new battery out to my car and got to work.

    I knew the basic process of replacing the battery, but I followed this guide to be sure: http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/battery.php

    It didn't take more than 15 minutes out in the rain to get it done. I did use the same plastic elbow tubing from the original battery since one wasn't supplied with the new battery, but other than that no issues. I put everything back together, turned the car on (which was faster and the starter motor stronger than before), and heard no "POP" sound. The sound has been intermittent up to this point but hopefully this will solve my issue

    New battery installed:


    Old OEM battery removed:


    Is this the OEM battery production and/or installation date (03/2005) stamped on the negative post? There weren't any other stickers to indicate that information.

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    551
    Looks good, I've never heard of that popping sound being caused by the battery but now I have. Hopefully you had some cover during the rain, that could be catastrophic.
    04 Imola Red / Alcantara / 6 MT
    Nashville, TN



    My Laptop/Desktop PC refurbishing thread: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...ffice-2013-Pro

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,258
    Thanks! And yes, I hope it fixes my popping sound, but I'll wait a few days to get a verdict. The rain wasn't bad, thankfully, just sort of spritzing. I did the install on my own right there in AutoZone's lot because I didn't want to have to drive home, swap the battery, then drive back out there to give them my original battery to get my core deposit back ($18).

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lebanon, OH
    Posts
    37,835
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post

    Is this the OEM battery production and/or installation date (03/2005) stamped on the negative post? There weren't any other stickers to indicate that information.
    Yes

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    17,021
    Good stuff

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, Ground Control Coilovers, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  9. #189
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,258
    Over the last week or so I've had a few things done.

    1. Replaced the brakes and rotors (12/04/2015 - 52,163 miles) - For rotors I used BMW Performance cross-drilled rotors I bought from Tippey764 here. The rotors are lighter, supposedly have improved wet weather and temperature dissipation, and look cooler than solid rotors. I should note that the rotors I received came in boxes with part numbers as follows:

    • 34210431907 - Rears (320x22mm) (2x)
    • 34110431905 - Left (325x25mm)
    • 34110431906 - Right (325x25mm)

    However, these parts have been discontinued and superseded by the following parts, which Tippey764 stated were the ones I would receive:

    • 34212282873 - Rears (320x22mm) (2x)
    • 34112282871 - Left (325x25mm)
    • 34112282872 - Right (325x25mm)

    It doesn't really matter to me they aren't the same as long as they work well, but if anyone has any insight with regard to the differences between the two sets of rotors, I am interested! I did notice that according to RealOEM.com, the current rear rotors weigh 0.15kg more than my superseded rotors, and 0.299kg more for the fronts. Who knows if that's correct or not.

    For pads I settled on Hawk Performance High Performance Street (HPS) 5.0. After reading around on some reviews here and elsewhere on the internet, it seems the Hawk pads offered good performance, low dust, low noise, and good price point. Guy (3ZHPGUY) helped me find the proper part numbers (Fronts: HB464B.764, Rears: HB518B.642) and informed me that they were on sale from TireRack (plus free shipping!), so I bought a set back in September. For a little more info and photos you can go here.

    The job itself was relatively easy. I took my time and followed two guides:
    1. http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/brakes
    2. http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/brakes.php

    I did scrape my knuckles a few times trying to get the carrier bolts off, but thankfully I had on some padded mechanic's gloves that saved my hands from the worst damage. I had previously purchased four rotor hex bolts (34211161806) in anticipation of finding them already stripped or stripping them myself, but neither of those scenarios occurred. The other difficult point was the stubborn rotors that were seized onto the hub. The method that worked best for me was to take a small block of wood and place it on the rotor at the 12 o'clock position, bang on it with a hammer a couple of times, then repeat at the 6, 3 and 9 o'clock positions until the rotor came off. Not elegant, but effective. All in all, the whole job probably took about 6 hours with a couple breaks.

    I was planning on painting the calipers yellow using G2's caliper paint kit from TireRack. However, that required cleaning the brake assemblies of brake dust and dirt which was very difficult given I didn't want to detach the caliper from the brake line (requiring I bleed and/or flush the brake system which I did recently). Even then, applying brake cleaner, vigorous scrubbing with a wire brush, and even a drill with a wire wheel attachment did little to clean off the baked on dirt and grime. I decided I would hold off on painting my calipers until I can remove them fully and clean them by soaking them in some sort of solvent to make the cleaning process easier. If you're going to do something, you might as do it properly.

    I still need to bed the brakes, and I figured I would use Hawk's own instructions located on the box and are as follows:
    1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
    2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph
    3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
    4. Allow 15 minutes for brakes to cool down.
    5. After step 4 your new pads are ready to use

    A few pictures
    Front passenger brake assembly - before:


    Caliper (left, resting on the wheel chock) and carrier removed:


    Assorted parts of the caliper and carrier assembly:


    Rotor removed:


    All reassembled with new pads and rotors:


    2. Applied Bimmian ///M Color Stickers to the grille (12/05/2015 - 52,163 miles) - I purchased these during Bimmian's Black Friday sale (part no. GSTAA1YYY). They come in various widths but all the same length. Install was simple. I quickly scrubbed the grille with a damp soapy rag, washed it off with a wet rag, dried it, then did one last cleaning with an alcohol swab. Afterwards I carefully applied the stickers, starting at the top and working my way down to the bottom where I cut the bottom to the properly length. I actually like how it looks even though it's not OEM (it is a styling cue from newer BMWs). It adds some color and contrast to an otherwise dark car.

    Pics:




    3. Spray painted the lower mesh grille (12/05/2015 - 52,163 miles) - I wanted to refresh my lower grille but decided I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing the bumper, despite the fact that is what I had originally planned to do using ecrabb's excellent guide. Instead, I removed the license plate bracket (and managed to misplace the bottom screw behind the bracket in the process), taped off the bumper surrounding the grille using painter's tape, and stuffed newspaper behind the grille to prevent overspray by sliding it down through the engine bay in front of the radiator. I had cleaned the grille as best I could the day before so that it would be dry when I painted it. I used Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Semi-Gloss Protective Enamel spray paint. The lighting at the time was poor so I don't have any good pics from before or the process, but see below. I think it turned out well for $5 and some time!

    Pics
    You can see how faded and gray the grille looks here:


    All together:


    Up close, although not a very good shot:


    4. Sunroof sunshade repaired (12/07/2015 to 12/09/2015 - 52,169 miles) - I'm not sure how, but my sunshade for the sunroof hopped off the rail on the rear passenger bracket. I'm guessing that it happened when I drove five of my friends in my car a short distance across town, meaning that two sat in front, one with their head against the roof. That probably provided enough flex for the sunshade to hop its rail. At any rate, the sunshade was stuck forward and could only be manually pulled back about two inches. Everything else functioned properly and there weren't any crunching noises. I tried forcing the sunshade's bracket back onto the rail by raising the sunroof but I couldn't apply enough force for that to work. Since the sunshade was stuck closed I couldn't access the screws that hold in the sunroof to remove the glass so that I could access the brackets. While futzing with it I managed to hop another bracket off its rail and really messed it up, so I left it to my mechanic. Some new brackets and a day later I had it fixed.

    I also heard some slight clunking sound from the rear passenger wheel well that I assumed was a loose bolt from my brake job so I had the mechanic inspect that. Sure enough, when he inspected all the bolts he found one loose at that location. He went ahead and torqued them all down to spec free of charge (only two needed adjustment).

    5. Coded some things with PA Soft (12/09/2015 - 52,172 miles) - There were two things I didn't like: 1. the auto-lock feature and the warning beep when exterior temperature was less than or equal to 37F. My original ZKE5 settings were as follows:



    At first I was hoping there was a solution where the car would automatically unlock its doors when the ignition was turned off, but sadly it doesn't appear that option exists. So instead I decided to turn off the auto-lock feature. To do so, I deselected "After starting" of lock, key 1, and key 2 under "Automatic Locking." Then under "Locking condition" I selected "Terminal R" so that if the first thing I did didn't deactivate the auto-lock feature, it would at least only engage in reverse, or at least that was my understanding. (EDIT: Drove my car the following morning, the doors never locked while driving!) Finally, I decided I did want my car to auto-lock if I don't open the door for two minutes after unlocking the car, so I selected "2 min after unlocking w/o opening." I'm not sure it all worked since I haven't driven it yet, but I did test the relock feature by locking the car, then unlocking it and waiting two minutes. The car locked itself after about two minutes. However, the clown nose wouldn't blink leading me to assume that while it physically locks the doors, it will not arm the alarm system. Anyone know anything about this? The final settings were:



    To turn off the exterior temperature warning I went into the IKE, which was as follows before:



    Under "Check/control, warnings" I deselected "C/C outside temperature. I also deselected "Out. temperature warning" under "Acoustic warnings." I'm not sure if only doing one would turn off the warning, but I decided to do both to make sure. Again, I haven't verified that it works since I haven't driven it nor have temps been below 40 this week. Sadly, I forgot to take a screencap of the IKE when I was finished, but you get the idea.

    Overall I am pleased with the work done recently. I also sourced a gently used black leather parking brake boot (34408227928) and new black leather shift boot (25111434426) that I will swap with the alcantara ones currently installed. I like the alcantara since it separates the ZHP from non-ZHP E46s, but it seems out of place now that I have had a leather steering wheel installed since April or May. Also, sitting in my father's 2006 330Ci ZHP I think the all-leather boot option looks good.

    Near future modification/maintenance plans:
    • Apex ARC8 17x8.5" ET40 wheels in Anthracite when the group buy goes live. Wrap them in 245/40R17 Continental ExtremeContact DW.
    • E46 M3 engine mounts (11812283798) and transmission mounts (22322282340).
    • Install ProClip onto the Bimmian cell phone bracket.
    • Wash and detail the car (inside and out). Includes simple green spray down of the engine bay, leatherique of the interior, and deep clean of the exterior.
    • Source E46 M3 heated seats with power lumbar and bolster adjustment
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 12-10-2015 at 09:18 AM.

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,404
    Good job.

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

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