Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1001
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,251
    Mileage: 84,16x

    Recently took two separate drives to the coast in three days and the car ran great as always. I'm busy studying for a licensing exam but have decided I should use the slight increase in free time while being off rotations to do a little maintenance/care for the car. I do not plan to do even a fraction of all of these things, but wanted to try and get it out on "paper" so to speak for my own reference. Questions I have for the forum are highlighted in red

    Maintenance:
    • Brake fluid: I've been flushing on an annual basis with ATE SL6-1. Is there any prescribed mileage that people replace brake fluid?
    • Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Is everyone still using Redline MTL or have they moved onto other brands/weights?
    • Differential fluid: same mileage consideration as transmission above, but using Redline 75W90.
    • Power steering fluid: My lower pressure hose is leaking, so I plan to have that replaced and fluid flushed at the same time using Redline D4 ATF. Also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. Can someone confirm the power steering feed line part number for our cars is 32416774215?
    • Replacement of idler and tensioner pulleys: At least one is dying already even though they were replaced 35k miles ago. Cheap to replace.
    • Replace windshield cowl: 51718232894. She's cracked.
    • Rebuild DISA: Already have the kit, just need to sit down and do it.
    • Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Any specific brands/suggestions for a Viton version?
    • Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide
    • Differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked and should be replaced. I don't want to use poly for NVH reasons, but are there good rubber alternatives to original bushings or should I just stick with originals, and are the part numbers 33176770788 (front) and 33176751808 (rear)?
    • Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17)
    • Replace/renew fading side markers
    • Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
    • Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor

    Modifications
    • Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and purchase/install correct bushings (31352229756). I was planning to pick up a larger 330Cic (33556751267) or Xi rear sway bar w/ correct bushings (33551096669) as well, but ZHPizza suggested just installing the front bar. Do y'all agree with ZHPizza's wild suggestions? I have never replaced the sway bar end links either (31356780847), should that be replaced as well?
    • Install ZHPizza's larger throttle body: Will also replace the upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759) and clean the ICV at the same time and reset accelerator adaptions
    • Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs: I assume this requires an alignment afterwards, correct?
    • Reset my Xtrons PB7646BAP to factory settings to see if that'll improve speed. Otherwise consider selling and getting an Avin Avant 4.
    • Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
    • Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
    • Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
    • Purchase/install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
    • Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
    • Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
    • Purchase/install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit
    • Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread
    • Purchase/install the euro tray (51167038323)
    • Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
    • Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 08-26-2021 at 10:18 PM.

  2. #1002
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Brakes: No mileage, I just do it once or twice a year... but I also track, so it's outside the norm.
    Trans fluid: I still use MTL and am fine with it. But I also don't winter my car
    OFHG: I use the BavAuto (now sold on ECS Tuning)
    Diff bushings: Yeah just use original. FWIW my ECS poly bushings didn't add any NVH but fitment was horrible, so don't get those
    Sway bar: Yeah, I'd say just only do the front bar. With the MacPherson strut, you can't make the assumption that larger front bar = more understeer. Because you are also reducing the camber loss, which means more grip. It's hard to say what has more of an effect, but generally with these cars just running a larger front bar will be fine
    Endlinks: If you have play in the joints then replace, if not then it's fine to reuse
    RTABs: Yes you need an alignment. The RTAB brackets set toe
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  3. #1003
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,251
    You are a mensch, my G.

  4. #1004

    William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

    Brake Fluid: you can do once a year but I think it’s not necessary. I once changed brake fluid after 3 years of use and didn’t notice any difference. I wouldn’t recommend changing them out only once every 3 years but once every year seems like overkill to me for a street driven car.

    Tran fluid: after using redline MTL,l twice, I think I’ll try getting bmw fluid from the dealership. The MTL is good for about 10000 miles or so, then it’s not very good.

    Diff fluid: been using redline stuff and don’t have issues

    Diff bushing: I would stick to OEM


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  5. #1005
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    7,620
    Brake fluid: I replace every 2 years regardless of the miles. I heard this time frame is recommended because moisture affects the fluid on the long term. Then the miles are not really important.

    Power steering: my mechanic replaced these 2 hoses on my sedan some years ago - 32416796390 and 32416750155.

    Differential bushings: I didn't replace yet. But I'm going with OEM when the time arrives.
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    157,000 miles

  6. #1006
    Brake Fluid: I try to change mine out every two years regardless of how many times I drive my cars... brake fluid absorbs moisture and in time would cause caliper pistons to seize in place so it is wise to change it out every two years.

    Suspension: do all your suspension upgrades and maintenance then plan on getting a full alignment done then you will be set.

    Differential bushings: Stick with OEM (+1 with regards to San's comment)

  7. #1007
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    brake fluid: every 2 years. doesn't matter miles.
    transmission fluid: i'm still using Redline MTL
    power steering: That's the part number that shows on realoem for my car.
    OFHG: the viton from BavAuto (ECS sells it)
    diff bushings: OE
    sway bar: yes large front bar is fine. when I did track/auto-x. I felt like large front bar with no rear bar at all was the way to go sometimes.
    endlinks: yeah just replace them too. it's probably bad by now if it's never been replaced. or maybe you'll break it while you're taking them off cause they old.
    rtab: yes. do all the suspension stuff at the same time and align once.

  8. #1008
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,251
    Great, thank you all kindly! It seems the consensus is as follows:
    • Brake fluid: Every two years. I'll update accordingly.
    • Transmission fluid: Sounds like people haven't been satisfied with Redline so I'll try either genuine BMW or this Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread
    • OFHG: I'll purchase the BavAuto Viton from ECS here, since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS
    • Differential bushings: I'll purchase OEM - 33176770788 (front) and 33176751808 (rear)
    • Sway bar: Sounds like the M3 front bar (31352229755) is sufficient. I'll purchase up the bushings as well (33551096669)
    • End links: I'll purchase them (31356780847) and replace them with the M3 sway bar. Question: Any preferred brand?
    • Power steering hoses: @fredo, I don't think those are the ones that are leaking but I'll ask my mechanic next time I see him. You listed (for my own reference) the power steering return hose (32416796390) and suction hose (32416750155)
    • RTAB: I'll install the RTABs and after everything else is done, get an alignment.

  9. #1009
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    879
    I had BMW trans fluid for about 50k miles, then replaced it with Redline MTL. HUGE MISTAKE. The BMW fluid was still brand spanking new after 50k miles. Not a hint of discoloration or particles. Literally could not be distinguished from the new MTL I had.

    Also you might find that you won't need a LSD anymore after doing spherical RTABs. The amount of grip they add is insane.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  10. #1010
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    I had BMW trans fluid for about 50k miles, then replaced it with Redline MTL. HUGE MISTAKE. The BMW fluid was still brand spanking new after 50k miles. Not a hint of discoloration or particles. Literally could not be distinguished from the new MTL I had.

    Also you might find that you won't need a LSD anymore after doing spherical RTABs. The amount of grip they add is insane.
    Sounds like I should swap to BMW fluid then, so long as FCP stocks it. I didn't even put that much mileage on mine (maybe 20k km?) and it was dark when I drained it.

    Sphericals are definitely the RTA to go with, but I found I was still spinning up the inside rear wheel on track. They're for sure better than OE or poly, but I think I just had too high of expectations given the reviews on this forum

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


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