William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

[sillieidiot]

I like the sound of the Gruppe M, but on my car, it actually felt like it lost performance vs. stock. I forgot that I swapped it out with my buddy when he needed a stock intake for smog. I was wondering the whole time why my car felt a bit sluggish but sounded better lol

[cakM3]

I like the sound of the Gruppe M, but on my car, it actually felt like it lost performance vs. stock. I forgot that I swapped it out with my buddy when he needed a stock intake for smog. I was wondering the whole time why my car felt a bit sluggish but sounded better lol

That's funny Hieu because I experienced the opposite. Better intake growl yes but my car also feels peppier after installing my Gruppe M intake. I actually look forward to driving my car with this intake installed.... I don't have actual data but just feeling the car as I drive it tells me having the Gruppe M installed is better than stock. Just my observation... but then the air where I am is much cooler then it is where you're located....

[BMWCurves]

Updating my list for my own reference
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids

• Brake fluid: Flush every two years (previously every one year). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
• Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Currently Redline MTL, but will try Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread.
• Differential fluid: At 30k miles, should flush sometime soon. Continue to use Redline 75W90.
• Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*

Mechanical items

• Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced.*
• Track down source of significant coolant leak or replace the cooling system.
• Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Will purchase recommended BavAuto Viton version from ECS here, since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS.
• Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
• Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
• Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
• Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor
• Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here.

Exterior

• Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide
• Replace or renew fading side markers
• Replace the hood and trunk gas struts (51238202688 / 51248254281, respectively) with Stabilus units

Miscellaneous

• Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17)
• Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***

Modifications
Suspension

• Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and install correct bushings (31352229756).
• Install front sway bar end links (31356780847)
• Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs.***
• Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)

Engine/drivetrain:

• Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
• Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
• Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
• Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit
• Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide

Electronics

• Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
• Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
• Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit

Interior

• Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
• Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy
• Install the euro tray (51167038323)
• Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster

Exterior

• Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
• Install used OEM Shark Fin

[YoitsTmac]

If you are looking for a clutch based LSD that’s BTO let me know. I had an excellent experience with Performance Gearing. He has a race and street version. You can spec the final drive and ramp angles. I have been very happy. I chose to buy my own for the more acceptable final drive over an M3 read, and because I had concerns over the M3 clutches. I also heard the ramp angles are aggressive on the M3 differential to make the car feel edge and exciting rather than performance.

I personally chose him for the lack of core return and he has some adaptable mechanical clutch mechanism. More clutches for the money and adaptable locking depending on driving habit. I don’t want to attempt to explain it as the owner would do a better job. He oozes passion for what he does.


Looking forward to a review/feedback on the spherical RTAB’s.

[BMWCurves]

Nice, I'll tuck that info away!

Yeah, these are all not immediately being addressed, with the exception of finding the coolant leak. But am hoping to get that taken care of and then do the RTABs and the front sway bar.

[BMWCurves]

Current mileage: 86,777

Some maintenance:
My car has sat for the past couple of weeks because it has a significant coolant leak. Ostensibly the only fault point was the junction between the upper radiator hose and its connections to the expansion tank and the radiator. Whenever the engine was running, coolant would pool at below the filling neck and then slowly spill out, but it was so bad that basically every other trip I had to fill with coolant.

I tried to see if any other leak existed using some dye and seeing if it reflected under UV light. No additional leaks were identified. Another symptom was increasingly loud chirping from the engine compartment, which, by the state of things, could be any of the pulleys (including the idler and tensioner pulleys that were recently replaced) because of how much leaked coolant was being sloshed around during regular driving. I thought it was the alternator as it was covered in coolant and made me nervous, so I purchased one of those automotive stethoscopes, but by the time they arrived, the chirping had died down a bit and was tough to localize at idle (now only present when under acceleration).

So backing up a bit, I figured I had a coolant leak with likely culprits being the upper radiator hose (17127510952, Rein) or expansion tank (BMW, 17117573781). Since I was replacing those, I bought a new coolant level sensor (17137553919, BMW), some coolant (82141467704, BMW), and figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the return coolant return hose (11531436410, Rein). Unfortunately, I thought I had purchased a lower radiator hose (11531436408) as cheap maintenance while I was in there, but looking back through my receipts, I hadn't . To chase down the chirp I decided to again replace the idler (11287841228, INA) and tensioner pulleys (11281748131, INA) and return them using FCP Euro's warranty in the near future. I again thought I had purchased an additional pulley for the AC compressor, but realized I just foolishly purchased an additional idler pulley.

Yesterday I put those parts in without too much problem. I referenced a few videos and guides (see below), but for the most part remembered how things should go. The one thing that annoyed me is I could not get the engine block drain plug out. I think my mechanic must have torqued it like crazy, which is unlike him, but I couldn't get it off with a ratchet, a breaker bar, a bigger breaker bar, or an electric ratchet. Defeated and not wanting to strip the plug, I left it be for someone else to deal with. I put it all back together and couldn't find any leaks. I had to bleed the circuit twice but it finally blows hot when it's at 91F and high fan speed. Additionally, the chirping I had heard seemed to have been eliminated so I am left with trying to decide if the chirping was somehow the pulleys I replaced or magically the alternator stopped being sad. Any thoughts on if an alternator gets sprayed with coolant, it could damage it in some way that I should be concerned about?

Cooling system references:

• https://bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne1TYgnTCCg
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKFE919xuoA

While I had the car up on jack stands, I also installed a used 26mm front sway bar I purchased in 2019 from an M3 part out car (31352229755, BMW) and then some new sway bar bushings (31352229755, BMW). I used some copper anti-seize lubricant both inside the bushing and outside against the bracket. Unfortunately, when trying to install some new end links (31356780847, LEMFÖRDER), I couldn't find (or only imagined I had) my thin set of wrenches so I couldn't tighten them down. I removed them and I'll leave it either for my mechanic or I'll buy a set of thin wrenches.

Sway bar references:

• http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf
• http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_eibach_sway.shtml

Both my hood (51238202688, Stabilus) and trunk struts (51248254281, Stabilus) were quite weak - my hood has attempted to kill me several times by just "giving up" and falling on my head). I followed a couple of videos, but it seems pushing the connector clip forward rather than up is the better method to releasing the strut.

Hood / trunk strut reference:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvAOpcUtHAY

Finally, I rotated my tires because it was due.

I plan to have my mechanic give the car a once over for the power steering line, put in my Bimmerworld spherical RTABs, install the end links, and if I'm feeling lazy, have him install the oil filter housing gasket and replace my differential, transmission, and power steering fluids.

[Galapolis]

Unfortunately, when trying to install some new end links (31356780847, LEMFÖRDER), I couldn't find (or only imagined I had) my thin set of wrenches so I couldn't tighten them down. I removed them and I'll leave it either for my mechanic or I'll buy a set of thin wrenches.

I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

[BMWCurves]

I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

I was definitely doing damage to the rubber and I'd rather not pierce the rubber prematurely.

Also, what's the part number for the normal transmission oil? I found 83222339219 and 83222339221 but don't know which. I'll happily try it.

[san]

I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

+1 about end links and using genuine bmw tranny fluid


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[BMWCurves]

+1 about end links and using genuine bmw tranny fluid


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Interesting, just a normal ol' adjustable wrench?



And which BMW part no. did you use for the transmission fluid?