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Thread: William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,112
    So I finally finished most of everything. What I did get done over the last week:

    Cooling system overhaul using TMS' kit (link: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-19...328i-330i.aspx).

    The kit came with pretty much everything. I used an assortment of guides to help along the way, but these were the most relevant:
    - http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php
    - Several from Pelican Parts, but mostly this one on the radiator: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

    As I said earlier, I've never really wrenched beyond doing spark plugs, oil change, and installing the OEM aux input cable so I didn't have a whole lot of experience. I didn't think it was too bad overall, the biggest issue I had was the bracket attached to the radiator that attaches to the expansion tank. They really should include that part, personally. Otherwise the only other issue was fitting the upper hose to the expansion tank and radiator inlet, it required some serious force.

    Other maintenance:
    I used TMS' maintenance interval kit (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...e-package.aspx) and picked and chose which parts I needed. With that kit I did the following:
    - Pulleys (AC tensioner, idler, tensioner): Easy peasy. I used a breaker bar with the proper Torx bit and it was simple as can be. Used a couple of YouTube videos and DIYs to help me (some of said videos: 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sL9NLj5f8 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA1PQ6AyiNc)
    - Belts (serpentine, AC): Easy as well, pretty much supplemented the pulley replacements.
    - Transmission fluid: Decided to use Redline MTL instead of the suggested options from TMS since I had read a bunch of different DIYs/maintenance threads that suggested MTL, and it's what my father uses in his E39 540i and it is buttery smooth. The fluid change itself was easy enough although I was confused when the DIYs I was following called for a 17mm hex but I was confronted with a T50 Torx bit. Found out later than many ZHP owners have either Torx or 8mm hex bolts for the fill/drain plugs on their transmission. At any rate, followed a few DIYs, this one was good for pictures: http://www.impee.co.uk/transmission_fluid_change.htm
    - Differential fluid: Proved to be a bit of a pain in that I did not have the right tools for the job. It calls for a 14mm hex socket but buying a 14mm hex socket alone are pretty spendy so I opted to buy a 14mm bolt and two nuts and use a wrench on the nuts. Unfortunately, I managed to bend the bolt and the fill plug hadn't budged at all. I broke down and bought a bunch of 1/2" hex sockets through Amazon so that delayed the drain until today. When I finally did do it, I was surprised to find no crush washers. I had gotten some through my kit so I threw them on there, but surprised there weren't any to begin with. I used the prescribed Redline 75W90.
    - Spark plugs: I figured the spark plugs were an easy swap and since pretty much everything but the motor oil was 10+ years old, they were due as well. Swapped them out quick as mentioned earlier, no problems. I forgot how big the coil packs are!
    - Air filters: It was time. Simple enough to do, no DIY guides necessary. Both were dirty and needed replacing.
    - Oil and filter change: It was actually a bit early (oil had been changed about 3k miles ago) but it never hurts to start fresh. Pretty quick and painless, plus gave an excuse to swap out the oil pain drain plug for a magnetic one.

    This cold has really got me down, I felt pretty awful just getting the car off jack stands tonight and filling/bleeding the coolant. Even so, I think I bled it well enough. I drove it around for half an hour and the car warmed up and heat came out of the fans no problem. The more uplifting thing is that after all of this work there were no error codes, no visible leaks, the temperature gauge was pegged dead center when before it had trouble heating up. It felt good. As a result of a lack of definitive DIYs I'm leaving the power steering flush to the mechanic, which I have to go to anyways to get an alignment. While I'm there I plan to do a brake fluid flush and CDV delete, as well as see if they'll put in my BMW Performance grills. I know I could save money and do some of that myself but this cold is killing me and I'll save those things for a later learning experience (and I don't trust myself with the grills, I've broken tabs on 3 separate sets on my old car).

    So all in all not too shabby! I think I saved about $1,000-1,500 when looking back at what a similar job cost me on my previous car. Still many other things to do, but none are of an immediate concern like the items I got done. My apologies for the lack of pics, my illness made me just want to get the job done quicker and completely disregard photographic documentation.

    A few pics I did take:

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    In the process of removing the coil packs

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    All removed

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    All laid out, old spark plugs included

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    Out with the Bosch in with the NGK

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    Got it up on jack stands after

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    Draining coolant

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    In the process of replacing the belts and the pulleys

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    New AC tensioner pulley assembly in place

    Odds and ends:
    I received an OEM ZHP knob (part no. 25117896886) in the mail from ECS Tuning and swapped it out for my current one which had bubbling under the icon and part of the leather was ripped/scratched. I also attempted my E90 mirror retrofit using this guide (link: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/mirror/compass.htm, EDIT: that link is down, this guide seems thorough: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097788) and the clown nose will light up when the car is locked, but it doesn't have power for the compass, the autodim, or the HomeLink. I'm not sure where I went wrong or why it's not working . I'll have to figure it out soon, but does anyone have any insight?

    Pic of new ZHP knob. Old one (left) has bubbling underneath the gate diagram (hard to see in the pic), new one (right)

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    Last edited by BMWCurves; 04-11-2017 at 09:39 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    16,633
    Wow, lots of stuff.
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, Ground Control Coilovers, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,400
    Nice William. And nothing like having the right tool on hand. And you WILL use it again.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    738
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post

    Odds and ends:
    I received an OEM ZHP knob in the mail from ECS Tuning and swapped it out for my current one which had bubbling under the icon and part of the leather was ripped/scratched. I also attempted my E90 mirror retrofit using this guide (link: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/mirror/compass.htm) and the clown nose will light up when the car is locked, but it doesn't have power for the compass, the autodim, or the HomeLink. I'm not sure where I went wrong or why it's not working . I'll have to figure it out soon, but does anyone have any insight?
    I think you will need to add a wire:
    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...852&highlight=

    See this thread. In order to add a home link mirror, this is what I had to do.
    -Jeff

    '16 Outback 3.6R | Sold: '03 ZHP

    "There is a straight six engine at the front, a manual gear box in the middle, and drive goes to the back. That's page one, chapter one from the petrolsexual handbook." - Jeremy Clarkson

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,112
    Jeff,

    Reading through your post I'm still not sure what my issue is. I have a wire that is properly slotted into slot 3 (I figured out I have to pop open that latch on the harness). I *think* that wire is properly spliced into the green/blue wire for power pictured here:

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    My harness already had a ground wire in slot 10 from the factory so I didn't mess with that. Is that your set up? Maybe my issue is that it's not properly spliced to the blue/green wire?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    738
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Jeff,

    Reading through your post I'm still not sure what my issue is. I have a wire that is properly slotted into slot 3 (I figured out I have to pop open that latch on the harness). I *think* that wire is properly spliced into the green/blue wire for power pictured here:

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    My harness already had a ground wire in slot 10 from the factory so I didn't mess with that. Is that your set up? Maybe my issue is that it's not properly spliced to the blue/green wire?
    Yes, I would double check the splice as well as the wire you added in slot #3 of the mirror harness. Ensure the wire is all the way in. IIRC, the wire only goes in the harness in one direction. Make sure it is secure. I had issues with this originally when I first did this.
    -Jeff

    '16 Outback 3.6R | Sold: '03 ZHP

    "There is a straight six engine at the front, a manual gear box in the middle, and drive goes to the back. That's page one, chapter one from the petrolsexual handbook." - Jeremy Clarkson

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,112
    Thanks for the clarification. I'm pretty sure I got the wire seated all the way into the harness but it is possible it isn't in there fully. I may just go out and buy a different tap splice, I'm not sure the one I used is really the proper type. They were the ones supplied in the harness kit I bought (OEM part no: 51160001231, link: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES79472/).

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,112
    So I went to a hardware store and bought a packet of 18-22 gauge tap splices hoping that was the source of my E90 retrofit issue. I get home and pop open the upper console, get ready to remove the old tap splice I used and realize that I had snapped down three of the splice's corners, but hadn't closed the fourth . I squeeze that last corner down with some pliers, turn the ignition and what do you know, the mirror works! So that solved my problem! I spent the next 20 minutes driving to a lot and calibrating it, but it works perfectly and I'm glad it wasn't a larger issue!

    To recap, I'd recommend the guide I followed for anyone who has a fully manual mirror that wants to retrofit an E90 auto-dim/compass/HomeLink rearview mirror (link: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/mirror/compass.htm). The only gripe I really have with that DIY is I didn't think the removal of the mirror from the glass was clear (you rotate 45 degrees CCW in the plane of the windshield), and my wiring harness was different from his so I had to futz around with it a bit to figure out how to open it up so it would accept a new wire. Other than my own ineptitude getting in the way, it was pretty easy. Total cost for the mirror (eBay), the harness (ECS), and the 18-22 gauge tap splices (local hardware store) was about $160.

    Pics:

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    Next up: sourced an unused UUC Evo3 SSK with DSSR for a decent price that I hope to install soon. And to decide whether or not I want to take the risk of trying to swap out the grills with my aforementioned terrible history/butterfingers.
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 04-20-2015 at 09:38 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    738
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    So I went to a hardware store and bought a packet of 18-22 gauge tap splices hoping that was the source of my E90 retrofit issue. I get home and pop open the upper console, get ready to remove the old tap splice I used and realize that I had snapped down three of the splice's corners, but hadn't closed the fourth . I squeeze that last corner down with some pliers, turn the ignition and what do you know, the mirror works! So that solved my problem! I spent the next 20 minutes driving to a lot and calibrating it, but it works perfectly and I'm glad it wasn't a larger issue!

    To recap, I'd recommend the guide I followed for anyone who has a fully manual mirror that wants to retrofit an E90 auto-dim/compass/HomeLink rearview mirror (link: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/mirror/compass.htm). The only gripe I really have with that DIY is I didn't think the removal of the mirror from the glass was clear (you rotate 45 degrees CCW in the plane of the mirror's mount/neck), and my wiring harness was different from his so I had to futz around with it a bit to figure out how to open it up so it would accept a new wire. Other than my own ineptitude getting in the way, it was pretty easy. Total cost for the mirror (eBay), the harness (ECS), and the 18-22 gauge tap splices (local hardware store) was about $160.

    Next up: sourced an unused UUC Evo3 SSK with DSSR for a decent price that I hope to install soon. And to decide whether or not I want to take the risk of trying to swap out the grills with my aforementioned terrible history/butterfingers.
    Woohooooo! Glad you were ablr to get it to work!
    -Jeff

    '16 Outback 3.6R | Sold: '03 ZHP

    "There is a straight six engine at the front, a manual gear box in the middle, and drive goes to the back. That's page one, chapter one from the petrolsexual handbook." - Jeremy Clarkson

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,112
    Thanks for your help, Jeff! I saw a bunch of DIYs about swapping out E46 auto-dim mirrors for E90 variants, but no one in the exact same situation as me so reading through your thread definitely helped.

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