Stock boring calipers = keep it simple color aka black or silver IMO
Stock boring calipers = keep it simple color aka black or silver IMO
His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
I painted my rear calipers phx yellow with the G2 kit. It matches the BBK Phx yellow. Don't know if that helps.
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Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
"ZHP or not, I still like you"
ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture
Appreciate the input, gentleman! Thankfully I have time to mull it over. I'm not really into silver despite that being the factory color. I think I'll either go loud with yellow (I think it looks decent with the black 330i I posted) or black to give it some contrast with my APEXs.
When I switched from my factory 18" style 135 wheels to the 17" APEX ARC8 wheels I definitely a noticed a small improvement in ride quality. I couldn't tell you if that was due purely to a lighter wheel and less unsprung weight (~28 lbs vs 17.2 lbs), different tire compounds (old Toyo Proxes vs. fresh Continental ExtremeContact DW), or the taller sidewall when downsizing from the factory 18" to 17." I will say that they are more comfortable ride-wise, and I found a noticeable improvement in handling and grip as well. The car is much more planted than before. Where bumps on a certain road used to upset the front wheels or make the rear wheels skitter about, it now absorbs those bumps and stays firmly planted to the ground. It was an expensive upgrade, but I'm aware of it each day I drive it and am especially grateful when I drive on some twisty backroads.
I had a thread trying to figure out wheel sizing a while back. The first post has most of my questions along with my final decision on sizing, impressions, and an interesting Road and Track article on decreasing wheel mass and its improvement on rotational inertia and acceleration: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...Size-Questions
Last edited by BMWCurves; 03-23-2017 at 09:58 AM.
The M3 front strut bar arrived yesterday evening. My father looked it over and says it looks basically brand new and has all the associated hardware! I'm very excited. Now I have to figure out if I need those extended hex nuts for the strut tower since I have the strut reinforcement plates and the strut brace. Can you use the normal strut tower nuts, or do I need those extended ones (part no. 51717895241, link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/51717895241/)
Crappy phone pic:
William, the 6 nuts that came with your strut tower brace (as pictured above) are infact part# 51717895241 and can be used even with the tower reinforcement plates. I too have the strut tower reinforcement plates and I have the ///M3 strut brace installed with these nuts and its fine.
anandoc
2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)
aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes