Yup. I just keep it at the top of the range on the dipstick and assume it’s good enough.
Not that I know of but she doesn’t visit my folks’ place that often so I’m not sure. What’s interesting is my father has mentioned the same issue, but it’s more rare than in my car (maybe once every 3-4 months vs my ~1 month)
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2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |
That's a very good point San!
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
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Every oil change I do ends up taking between 6-7 quarts (oil filter takes some in as well). What are you guys doing?? lol
I actually chuckled when I read this.
Just for everyone's reference, the manual states that the vehicle's engine should be warmed up and checked a few minutes after shutting the motor off.
The exact text is as follows. As obvious as it may seem, there are a couple of points that some people miss, mainly Steps 1 and 2.
Checking the oil level
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface
2. Switch the engine off after it has reached normal operating temperature
3. After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar material
4. Carefully push the dipstick all the way into the guide tube and pull it out again
5. The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick.
I only bring this up because for years I would check my oil level when the engine was completely cold. This is how I thought you were supposed to check it, but then I read that in the manual and scratched my head. My garage floor is pretty level, but not entirely (car rolls slightly in neutral), so that could potentially mess with a reading as well.
There does seem to be a difference. Unfortunately the difference isn't consistent... sometimes it shows more when cold, sometimes it shows more when warm. It's really weird.
Using logic, I'd imagine checking it warm would show a lesser amount. Therefore, I go with the warm measurement, because I'd rather have a touch more in there than a touch less (since my car uses a lot of oil in general).
Technically warm would show more due to the expansion of the fluid. I think depends more on how long you wait to check after turning off the engine... It takes a while for everything to drop back into the pan
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers