Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    Looking at the BMW Performance intake I got today in the mail, it doesn't have an o-ring in the back. Can anyone confirm it's the same o-ring from the stock airbox and I can just use that? If not, RealOEM.com (link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...47#13720429613) shows two possible part numbers, either a 79x6mm o-ring (part no. 13711720540) or a 91x6mm o-ring (part no. 13711731893). I assume it's the latter because of the larger diameter for the 3.0L engine of the 330i vs the smaller 2.5L of the 325 variants.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,903
    Just buy a new windshield washer pump. Very easy install.
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Oli77 View Post
    Just buy a new windshield washer pump. Very easy install.
    Yeah I looked into the procedure, looks relatively painless, but I need to diagnose whether or not it's actually the pump (part no. 67128362154) that's dead or something else. I haven't had time to fiddle with it and figure it out.

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    Installed my new (to me) BMW Performance intake (part no. 13720429613). The previous owner (illirep) sold it to me and was great to work with. As stated in the ad, it had two broken tabs on the upper intake funnel and a few scuffs but was otherwise brand new. When it arrived (nicely packaged with tons of padding and bubblewrap) I noticed a third tab was broken on the upper intake funnel. Not a big issue for me, I just took some black electrical tape and tapped the inside and I think i did a pretty good job. Sure isn't going anywhere.

    Next issue I encountered was the o-ring, or rather the lack thereof. RealOEM.com lists two possible o-rings (link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...47#13720429613), but I believe the 91x6mm one listed is the proper one since we have the larger 3.0L engine (part no. 13711731893). I figured I could at least try and use the o-ring from my stock air box since it "should" in theory fit the same MAF housing before I go ahead and order a new one.

    I pretty much did the swap by intuition, but I did consult BMW's official installation instructions near the end (attached below):

    So, onto the installation! It really wasn't too bad except for the expansion tank label tab I mention below and getting the MAF housing back into the upper portion of the BMW Performance intake. I think I snapped one of the vanes in the MAF housing in the process, but hopefully that won't affect the airflow much (will still remain laminar ). It looks really good put back together. My initial impression after driving a few miles with it is that it feels a little more responsive and a tiny bit more oomph at the top end, but who knows. It does have a minor whistle/sucking sound at low RPM. Still, I think it was worth the money, even if something like a GruppeM might sound more aggressive. I like the idea of having a BMW-tested and approved product in my car, even if it is blind brand loyalty.

    Stock airbox before installation.


    Removed the top part of the stock airbox. Removed the MAF housing from the intake boot.


    The upper portion of the stock intake box housing with the previously mentioned o-ring. I removed the o-ring easily and installed it in the new BMWP intake.


    Stock airbox removed. I really need to clean my engine bay at some point, but have no idea how to do it without getting water in electrical connections


    Lower portion of stock airbox with lower intake funnel section separated.


    I tried installing the performance intake, but this expansion tank label tab (part no. 17111439721) sat too tall and pushed the upper intake funnel out of alignment. BMW's installation instructions simply said to "Unclip tab (1)" which was not helpful. Turns out you just had to give it a good yank to pull it off. It was greased up so it didn't snap anything.


    Expansion tank label tab removed.


    Everything back together. Basically repeated everything I did in reverse order.


    Now that it's all done, I'll also need to figure out where to source another air filter as cheaply as possible, they seem pretty spendy (part no. 13720431649).
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 07-14-2015 at 01:49 PM.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    2,805
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Things I'll probably leave to a mechanic:

    • Shark Injector tune
    • Power steering fluid (I have the fluid just rather not do it myself).
    • Alignment
    • Diagnose issue with my windshield washer pump.
    Wait...why can't DIY for Power Steering? Are you flushing it or replacing parts? If so...plenty of DIYs out there for that.

    Also, what is the issue with the windshield washer pump?

    How do you like the intake?

    Current:
    1988 BMW 325is
    1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 x3 Locked - Restoration/Project Thread on ih8mud.com
    Sold:
    "Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
    2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    Wait...why can't DIY for Power Steering? Are you flushing it or replacing parts? If so...plenty of DIYs out there for that.

    Also, what is the issue with the windshield washer pump?

    How do you like the intake?
    Haha I should have elaborated. I rather not do it because a) I'm lazy for this particular job b) the only method I seem to have available (with the tools I have) is the turkey baster method which doesn't seem very thorough to me and c) an indy mechanic I know is currently doing a free power steering fluid flush with any alignment so...why not?

    As for the windshield washer pump, whenever I pull the windshield washer stalk the wiper blades move as if it were trying to wash away the spray, but no actual spray comes out. There is no sound either of the pump activating. I checked the nozzles and they're clear. I think I'll just buy a new pump and swap it since they're about $25-30, which is still cheaper than diagnosing it at most shop.

    And I'm about to go run some errands, so I'll get a chance to test the intake then.

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    I checked fuses 49, 52, and 59 tonight which are all related to the windshield washer system. They all looked intact and I tested each one with the correct amperage spare fuse and none of them would fix my windshield washer issue. Since I can't find any other obvious causes for my problem, I decided I'll buy a new windshield fluid pump (part no. 67128362154), along with the pump's strainer (part no. 61667006063) and wheel bolt pin (part no. 71111093774) to go in the trunk toolkit.

    The guide here looks pretty straight forward: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...Y-doityourself

    Only question I have is that he states that the grommet/strainer is part no. 89606011001, while according to RealOEM.com using my VIN, it should be 61667006063, which looks to be the same. Not sure what's going on there.

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    571
    I'm eager to hear if the parts you ordered were the fix. Different, but maybe related, I constantly got the window washer fluid low notification on the dash. Even after replacing the resavoir it still lingered. I ended up selling the car before fixing. I'm confident you'll figure it out.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    04 Imola Red / Alcantara / 6 MT
    Nashville, TN



    Nashville, TN 37221

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    I checked fuses 49, 52, and 59 tonight which are all related to the windshield washer system. They all looked intact and I tested each one with the correct amperage spare fuse and none of them would fix my windshield washer issue. Since I can't find any other obvious causes for my problem, I decided I'll buy a new windshield fluid pump (part no. 67128362154), along with the pump's strainer (part no. 61667006063) and wheel bolt pin (part no. 71111093774) to go in the trunk toolkit.

    The guide here looks pretty straight forward: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...Y-doityourself

    Only question I have is that he states that the grommet/strainer is part no. 89606011001, while according to RealOEM.com using my VIN, it should be 61667006063, which looks to be the same. Not sure what's going on there.
    You have the right part numbers for the pump and the strainer. Let us know how it goes. I have been troubleshooting my washer system for the past few months (and was successfully able to fix the issues) so I am quite familiar with the whole system should you need any help. Goodluck!
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  10. #90
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,243
    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    You have the right part numbers for the pump and the strainer. Let us know how it goes. I have been troubleshooting my washer system for the past few months (and was successfully able to fix the issues) so I am quite familiar with the whole system should you need any help. Goodluck!
    I appreciate it! I'll update when I do it and let you and 330i Lover know.

    In other news, it's been discussed over in the "Random ZHP Question Thread" here, but my driver's side rear window switch button has some cosmetic issues so I was contemplating the possibility of swapping out the buttons rather than buying a whole new OEM switch assembly (part no. 61316902175). So today I removed the switch and disassembled it. At first glance and it seemed that I could remove the button as it was held in place with two "axles" (see picture below). However, despite how hard I pushed on the axles to try and create space for the button to slip above it, the axle would not budge. I put so much pressure on it with a nail punch that fit that I worried I was going to snap it. I really could not do it. I looked at it closely and the top edge of the axle is shaved off at an angle (you can sort of see it in the pic as well). I'm guessing it is that way so that it can be pushed into place easily during assembly, but having the middle and bottom of the axle be flush with the side of the button makes it incredibly unlikely to unseat itself. Additionally, the entire area that the axles are attached to is solid so there just isn't enough flex to disassemble it as far as I could manage.



    And if you are a dolt like me, you may forget which way in the lower assembly of the switch goes into the upper assembly. A quick check by reattaching the lower assembly to the car's power and testing the windows yields the correct orientation below, with the red things of each switch toward the rear of the car:



    So with that said, I can either do nothing and let the minor cosmetic issue be, or buy a new OEM assembly switch (part no. 61316902175). With how I like my cars, the latter option is probably my most likely move

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