Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
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    Honestly I would just do the complete set of Koni yellows from the same place. They would be covered under warranty from Koni. If anything happened, you can deal directly with them.

    As far as the parts, you can go OE BMW or OEM. Prices are not that drastic. I think I spent under $200 for everything from the BMW Mini Parts store without the shocks and rear shock mounts. You can check out my project thread under Sketchi if you want.

    And if you do the Rouge mounts, they do come with gaskets. I was just saying you will need them if you buy another brand of mounts.

    As far as FCAB and RTAB, you can go with rubber units or go Poly. If you go with the rubber RTAB, limiters would be a good idea. Poly units do not require them to be used.

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Portland, OR
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    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    it's fine for street use. i went with the powerflex poly RTABs and while they are better than worn OEM bushings, ultimately they're not the correct solution, as they do not allow full multi-axis articulation of the trailing arm (neither does rubber, but it allows more than poly does).

    i've just recently picked up a set of bimmerworld sealed spherical RTABs that i personally think will be the best solution on the market for RTABs. they allow correct articulation of the arms, have a sealed OEM bearing (for longevity), and should be quiet with zero ride penalties. excited to install them.

    peter
    Cool info. Just so I'm clear, are RTAB limiters worth getting? I'd be interested to hear what you think of Bimmerworld's ssealed spherical RTABs. I didn't realize the rear trailing arm was a multi-axis pivot point. I assumed it was only vertical. Thanks for the info!

    EDIT:
    Quote Originally Posted by Vas View Post
    Honestly I would just do the complete set of Koni yellows from the same place. They would be covered under warranty from Koni. If anything happened, you can deal directly with them.

    As far as the parts, you can go OE BMW or OEM. Prices are not that drastic. I think I spent under $200 for everything from the BMW Mini Parts store without the shocks and rear shock mounts. You can check out my project thread under Sketchi if you want.

    And if you do the Rouge mounts, they do come with gaskets. I was just saying you will need them if you buy another brand of mounts.

    As far as FCAB and RTAB, you can go with rubber units or go Poly. If you go with the rubber RTAB, limiters would be a good idea. Poly units do not require them to be used.
    Thank you both! I think I'll just go ahead and get the $498 Konis, keep my springs, do refresh of all the ancillary components and then do the FCABs (that's a whole debate) and RTABs (sounds like OEM rubber with limiters).

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Picton, ON
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Cool info. Just so I'm clear, are RTAB limiters worth getting? I'd be interested to hear what you think of Bimmerworld's ssealed spherical RTABs. I didn't realize the rear trailing arm was a multi-axis pivot point. I assumed it was only vertical. Thanks for the info!

    EDIT:


    Thank you both! I think I'll just go ahead and get the $498 Konis, keep my springs, do refresh of all the ancillary components and then do the FCABs (that's a whole debate) and RTABs (sounds like OEM rubber with limiters).
    sounds like a good plan. for FCABs i run poly (as does vas i believe), and while some folks say there's an NVH increase - i have not noticed one, and of all folks i think i would, as i'm incredibly sensitive to NVH. i DO notice much-improved steering response. well worth doing in my opinion (plus they last longer).

    peter
    peter

    2018 Subaru BRZ RS 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Subscribed.

    Curious to your thoughts before and after the refresh. I'm at 73k and 10 years so definitely been on the radar as well. I drove two cars over the weekend with the Koni Yellows and both felt great.

    Current:
    1988 BMW 325is
    1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 x3 Locked - Restoration/Project Thread on ih8mud.com
    Sold:
    "Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
    2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread

  5. #15
    I will have to do this soon as well... I am also leaning towards the koni yellow, especially for the price...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    Subscribed.

    Curious to your thoughts before and after the refresh. I'm at 73k and 10 years so definitely been on the radar as well. I drove two cars over the weekend with the Koni Yellows and both felt great.
    nice, daniel - did you note the damper settings?


    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    I will have to do this soon as well... I am also leaning towards the koni yellow, especially for the price...
    yep, konis are 25% off until august!

    peter
    peter

    2018 Subaru BRZ RS 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    sounds like a good plan. for FCABs i run poly (as does vas i believe), and while some folks say there's an NVH increase - i have not noticed one, and of all folks i think i would, as i'm incredibly sensitive to NVH. i DO notice much-improved steering response. well worth doing in my opinion (plus they last longer).

    peter
    Definitely something to consider. What brand do you run for your polyurethane FCABs? I was considering the Z4M FCABs since a lot of people seem to like theirs with the added positive castor although I haven't heard too much in the way of downsides. I assume like with most suspension work it will need an alignment afterwards. But at $150 for both already pressed into the FCAB mounts, it doesn't seem too bad (BMW part no. 31107836862 [left], 31107836863 [right]). I can't find as much info about OEM E46 RTABs vs. Z4M RTABs. Would the Z4M RTABS fit on our cars and they solid rubber like the FCABs? Vorshlag seems to think so according to this article: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=515. They list two items at the top and I'm not sure which is supposed to be used.

    Quote Originally Posted by NoVAphotog View Post
    Subscribed.

    Curious to your thoughts before and after the refresh. I'm at 73k and 10 years so definitely been on the radar as well. I drove two cars over the weekend with the Koni Yellows and both felt great.
    I'll let you know once I get everything together and have it installed! As I said, I don't know much about suspension work beyond basic theory so it'll be a learning experience.

    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    nice, daniel - did you note the damper settings?
    +1 I'd be interested as well. Reading around it seems the shocks/struts soften and settle a bit after in the first 1,000 miles so some people do one full turn and endure the stiffer setting until it softens while others do set it to something lower like half a turn and then dial it up after that same period.

    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    yep, konis are 25% off until august!
    Yup, 25% off at most retailers since I think it's a Koni special. The sale at Race Consulting Agency I listed is even cheaper than 25% off, or at least cheaper than TireRack's 25% off sale. Links below to the RCA sale:

    Left strut (8741-1390RSPORT): http://www.raceconsultingagency.com/.../i-101112.aspx
    Right strut (part no. 8741-1390LSPORT): http://www.raceconsultingagency.com/.../i-101113.aspx
    Rear shock (part no. 8040-1271SPORT [2x]): http://www.raceconsultingagency.com/.../i-101065.aspx

  8. #18
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Definitely something to consider. What brand do you run for your polyurethane FCABs? I was considering the Z4M FCABs since a lot of people seem to like theirs with the added positive castor although I haven't heard too much in the way of downsides. I assume like with most suspension work it will need an alignment afterwards. But at $150 for both already pressed into the FCAB mounts, it doesn't seem too bad (BMW part no. 31107836862 [left], 31107836863 [right]). I can't find as much info about OEM E46 RTABs vs. Z4M RTABs. Would the Z4M RTABS fit on our cars and they solid rubber like the FCABs? Vorshlag seems to think so according to this article: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=515. They list two items at the top and I'm not sure which is supposed to be used.
    i've not used the Z4M FCABs but they appear to be a good alternative - the only downside i can see is that they do move the wheel further forward in the wheel well, which might look a bit off. otherwise they increase caster and that's a good thing.


    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    I'll let you know once I get everything together and have it installed! As I said, I don't know much about suspension work beyond basic theory so it'll be a learning experience.
    the rear shocks on these cars are absolutely cake to replace - you'll be able to do it in 30mins with basic hand tools.

    i haven't tackled the fronts yet but they also look dirt simple. you will need a spring compressor, though.


    peter
    peter

    2018 Subaru BRZ RS 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

  9. #19
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    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    i've not used the Z4M FCABs but they appear to be a good alternative - the only downside i can see is that they do move the wheel further forward in the wheel well, which might look a bit off. otherwise they increase caster and that's a good thing.
    I used Z4M FCABs when I got my front suspension refreshed in March. They are a direct plug and play and has given me increased castor (5.9 degrees). Handling feels great and the steering feels tight!
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    I used Z4M FCABs when I got my front suspension refreshed in March. They are a direct plug and play and has given me increased castor (5.9 degrees). Handling feels great and the steering feels tight!
    Can you post some pictures of the wheels in the wheel well? Is the change in caster really that noticeable from a "looks" standpoint?

    Current:
    1988 BMW 325is
    1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 x3 Locked - Restoration/Project Thread on ih8mud.com
    Sold:
    "Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
    2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread

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