Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Indiana
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    What's the difference between a TCU and a ULF?
    I believe the ULF has no built-in cellular radio (i.e. BMW Assist functionality); it was designed explicitly to provide Bluetooth connectivity (& voice command recognition for navi). The TCU combines phone connectivity – whether a factory-installed handset or a Bluetooth-connected phone – & BMW Assist cellular hardware.

    Additionally, the two units pair with a Bluetooth phone in different ways: the ULF uses a paring button (usually located under the armrest) to initiate the paring process, & the TCU starts up in pairing mode & remains discoverable for ~120 seconds.

    Travis | ’04 ZHP sedan 6MT | WeĭssLĭcht AEs | BMW clears | Plasti-Dipped grilles | BMW Perf. intake | TMS Power Pulleys | DIY aux-in | !CDV
    Sprint Booster w/Sport button | Mich PS AS4 (245 sq) | M3 front sway | Z4M LCABs | Beisan VANOS rebuild | GAS DISA rebuild | BMW diag. PC

  2. #12
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    Mar 2011
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    Maine
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    374
    I need to do this!

    HTC EVO / Tapatalk


    BMW Perf. Gloss Kidneys | UUC DSSR | B&M SSK | 35% tint | AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses | Tri-Color Coby Wheel | Aux Input

  3. #13
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
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    I didn't see this mentioned, but when I retrofitted a ULF into my old zhp, I lost my speedometer and odometer. A lot of google searching later, I found that you need to remove pins 7 and 8 from the 54-pin harness to get the speedometer back. I don't see this issue mentioned very frequently, so maybe it only effected early ULFs or early cars (I had a 1st gen ULF in an 07/2003 build zhp). Just thought the tip might come in handy to someone else who runs into the same issue

  4. #14
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    Jan 1970
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    Southern California
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    Great tip, thanks!
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dallas
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    822
    To anyone who may be considering a BT retrofit, having done so recently in a friend's ZHP I can vouch for the ease of the DIY procedure found HERE. Parts cost is about $150. It works very well. Calls can be placed & answered with the steering wheel, mutes music when doing so, etc.

    Note: you need a slightly different version of one of the parts involved if your car has NAV.

  6. #16
    first, excellent writeup using OEM parts Crickett

    @ terra, that's interesting that you lost your speedo and odometer when you retrofitted the ULF module in your ZHP. I recently had SNA77 help me with my retrofit using his ULF module and did not run into this problem. My ZHP was prewired for bluetooth but never had anything installed until I did the retrofit. Maybe what you said about affecting earlier cars is a possibility...I have a 6th gen ULF in my ZHP. Interesting to hear nevertheless.

    @ aurelius, that DIY you are referencing is Delmarco's DIY and yes, it is very thorough and has some videos as well... not using OEM parts but is a good alternative for those who desire BT but not pay for OEM parts.

    John, what Crickett said about the difference between a ULF and TCU module is correct. If you have navi and do not need BMW assist, then the ULF module is the way to go if you care to have voice command for your navi. The TCU module is cheaper so if you don't require voice command for the navi, or if you don't have navi then I would recommend going with the TCU module. I have the 13th gen TCU module in the ///M and ULF module in the ZHP.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
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    Thanks Charlie. I have Nav, and was thinking voice command for that would be good. I also have a Parrot for BT, but I wouldn't mind buying a ULF and using that instead, as I really feel like I need that microphone right above the steering wheel instead of the parrot mic near the top, which gets more wind noise.

    EDIT: I heard that a BMW dealer is supposed to "program" your car for BT, is that true, or just adding the ULF is all I'd need?
    EDIT addition: Just looked, ULFs are still extremely expensive, will likely have to pass.
    Last edited by johnrando; 01-30-2012 at 04:15 PM.
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Officially, they're supposed to program it. Doesn't make a big difference though - all the programming does is change the module's name to match the last 5 digits of your VIN

    For VA with nav, you can also get a separate SES module and use that with the TCU. I think they go pretty cheap on eBay.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Thanks!
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    15

    Fixing issue with no sound through speakers for Bluetooth OEM + Ipod on2004 e46

    Bluetooth OEM DIY retrofit as described works GREAT, but I had a problem where the incoming calls didn't come through my speakers.

    This 2 year old thread deserves a bump-- it's the most helpful I found on the interwebs for this project on an e46.

    My 2004 330i had no nav, no BMW assist, and no microphone. It did have the OEM ipod, which turned out to be the issue.

    IF you have OEM iPod, but no nav (as I did) you may experience the same problem I did- No sound from speakers, but everything else working perfectly. It was very, very hard to find info on this problem that was accurate, and not written in obscure jargon. It's kind of an edge case. But in case anyone else has the same problem, here's how to fix it. (without jargon)

    The problem is NOT with your speaker. (probably) The problem is that the OEM ipod bluetooth wiring hardness (which is plugged into the back of your radio) does not presuppose that you might also want bluetooth. So it's missing two crucial wires. So you need to move them from the unused plug where they currently reside, into the plug that the ipod unit is using.

    Here's what you need to do: Open up the dash to access the back of the radio. (plenty of vids available) It's not hard if you buy the right tools mentioned on this thread. Look at the big square plug in the back of your radio. At the bottom there will be a small square plug. Using a flathead screwdriver to lift the plastic tab on top, remove it (again, e46 radio removal videos are helpful and easy to find).

    You'll note that this big plug actually contains a smaller plug on the bottom that is seperate, and once it's removed from the radio, this small plug can be removed from the big plug by pushing out a blue "U" shaped piece of plastic that holds it in place.

    The plug looks like this:


    You'll notice that plug "A" is filled with a small square plug that leads to a "Y" wire junction and eventually to your ipod. On the the other arm of the "Y" is an identical small square plug. Many forums say one of these is white, but on my car both were black. Put a piece of tape on the one that is currently plugged in, to mark it as the one that will be replugged into the back of your radio in a few minutes.

    Now what you need to do is remove the wires that are in positions 3 and 8 on plug "B", and put them into the same positions (3 and 8) on plug "A".

    On my car these wires were yellow and black. Make sure you mark which one is in position #3 so you put them into the correct places on plug "A" once you getthem out of "B."

    This will be hard. I used a couple of different thicknesses of paperclips, a micro-screwdriver, and a lot of force to push them out from the front towards the back, where the wires come in. The smallest paperclip fit best, but didn't provide enough force. (it bent) The micro-screwdriver was the one that finally provided the necessary force, but it kinda trashed the little metal tube things (Jargon: "leads") that go into the plug. In fact one split in half. I gather there is an official BMW tool for this, but of course there is. I did it the handyman way.

    After smoothing them out a bit as best I could and deciding they would probably still provide electrical contact with the radio, I put them into the "A" plug, reassembled the big plug, re-attached it to the radio, and tested it. Success!

    After putting everything back behind the trim, it looks as OEM as OEM should.

    Incoming calls now came through through the speaker just as they should.

    The beauty of the OEM setup is that there are no unsightly wires anywhere, the upgraded directional noise-cancelling microphone works brilliantly, and best of all, you can use all the fancy buttons on your steering wheel to answer calls, increase/decrease volume, and even dial out. Paging through contacts is lame on the small one-line display of the standard "business CD" so I made a "top 15" list of contacts and synced to that. For more obscure numbers I select them on my phone or use the phone's voice dialing commands. Fantastic!

    Many thanks to OP Cricket and the other contributors to this thread for giving me the courage to try this project. I saved big bucks and am very happy with the results.

    Total cost for Bluetooth retrofit: $200 (TCU and Bluetooth Antenna bought on Ebay for $100, which was a pretty good deal) plus the $60 updated microphone and ~$30 in misc parts from ECS as listed by OP.

    PS: No programming was necessary.

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