800 n I would get rid of mine anybody ? Lol
800 n I would get rid of mine anybody ? Lol
same......lol
2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover
Anybody bought it yet lol
I have no words...
BMW CCA # 510252
From the FB group. Any thoughts (or counter points?)
No flaming per forum etiquette.
"Hands down the factory bar is better.
1). The E46 has slotted holes in the front strut tower so camber can be adjusted slightly if the alignment pin is taken out of the strut mounts.
This becomes an issue is the bar needs to be removed for engine repair or service.
The Rogue bar is one piece, it has slotted holes to accommodate for this adjustment. Because it is one piece, the entire bar must be removed. If you're using camber plates or have removed to alignment pins in the strut mounts there is an excellent chance you will throw off the alignment by simply removing the Rogue bar to service the engine.
The factory bar on the other hand is 3 pieces. The two end caps use unslotted holes to attach to the strut towers. The center bar is where any width differences are accommodated for. It attaches to the end caps with slotted holes.
During service the center bar can simply be removed with the end caps left in place. Eliminating any chance of altering alignment during service.
2. One of the drawbacks to having a strut bar is that it will transfer damage from one tower to another in the even of an impact. The factory bar addresses this, the Rogue bar does not.
The Rogue bar is one solid piece. With the Rogue bar any damage effecting the position of one strut tower will almost certainly be transferred to the other side.
The end caps on the factory bar are designed to fail (snap in 2) in the event of a hard impact. This eliminates the possibility of transferring damage through the strut bar.
The factory bar is a much more elegant, well engineered solution. For the E46 (and E85/86), have have seen nothing in the aftermarket that even compares."
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
Current:
1988 BMW 325is
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 x3 Locked - Restoration/Project Thread on ih8mud.com
Sold:
"Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread
I like my M3 strut bar and the extra money that I have in my pocket from not buying a BMW Performance Bar :P
However I do like that I can take the center section of the M# bar off and not touch the plates.
His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
I agree completely
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...=534242&page=2
Last edited by WOLFN8TR; 10-05-2015 at 01:46 PM.
BAV Stage 1 - BlueBus - UltraGauge - V1 - Orion V4's - ARC-8's - Brembo 996
TTFS Engine/SMG Tune/CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA - Evolve Eventuri
VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser - OE CSL Trunk - BWS 500S 9k/11k
The other one SOLD (see above) but Heiu has one for sale for $700!
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...1#post16777495
BAV Stage 1 - BlueBus - UltraGauge - V1 - Orion V4's - ARC-8's - Brembo 996
TTFS Engine/SMG Tune/CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA - Evolve Eventuri
VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser - OE CSL Trunk - BWS 500S 9k/11k
$1500 bucks.......cash......if true: sheesh.
those CSL airboxes are SO nice.
2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover