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Thread: This is why shock tower reinforcement plates are a must

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    I'm planning on using a deadblow hammer on top and a dolly from underneath and see how that works out. The metal is stretched so I'm not going to be able to make it perfect and I don't want to distort it anymore than it already is. Even if you just stick the reinforcement plates in and do nothing else it's going to stop any more distortion and more importantly, it will stop cracking.

    I'll post my progress here but I'm probably not going to get to it for another couple of weeks....
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    I fixed it with the metal sandwich, described above. Never welded. No furthering of damage after I terminated the holes.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

    You didn't have to flatten out the tower first? Simply installing the plate and strut bar together was enough to flatten it back down again?? I thought you had to flatten out the strut tower first before installing the plate and bar...
    BP
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  3. #23
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    I'm not sure I did. Mine didn't really appear deformed to me.

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  4. #24
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    I'd be REALLY leery of welding on that....in all my dabbling with welding, I keep reading what a bad idea it is to weld on a car - too many ways for the high current to screw up the cars electronics (and yes, it happened to me once...but only a minor problem, thank God). If anything, a good gas weldor could probably do a nice job with it and it'd likely be less brittle. I'd probably just leave it though...

  5. #25
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    I've monitored it over the past couple of years. It hasn't changed. My fix is sound.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  6. #26
    JB Weld.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_George View Post
    I'd be REALLY leery of welding on that....in all my dabbling with welding, I keep reading what a bad idea it is to weld on a car - too many ways for the high current to screw up the cars electronics (and yes, it happened to me once...but only a minor problem, thank God). If anything, a good gas weldor could probably do a nice job with it and it'd likely be less brittle. I'd probably just leave it though...
    It's ok, I have about 30 years experience doing this sort of thing. No damage to electronics as long as the proper precautions are taken. You're right, heat is enemy in this situation as you don't want to change the properties of the metal.

    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    I've monitored it over the past couple of years. It hasn't changed. My fix is sound.
    I agree. This has been confirmed by posts on few other forums.
    Also, looking at Dane's picture, it appears that he had little to no distortion at all
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  8. #28
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    Can we get a pic of what the underside of the strut bar mount looks like? I'm curious to see how much of it actually contacts the top of the strut mount.


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  9. #29
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    Hmm, I might have to get the plates too.

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  10. #30
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    That's a good point all though even if the strut bar mount covered the whole thing it still wouldn't stop the upward force of the shock mount. Only the reinforcement plates will do that...

    Here's a pic of mine not as much coverage as I thought...

    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

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