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Thread: GotZHP's E46 330i ZHP Maintenance & Build Thread w/ Pics & DIYS

  1. #131
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Baton Rouge, LA
    I'm sure the other people will love the oil all over everything lol

  2. #132
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Southern California
    Nice werk.
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"

    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  3. #133
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    Nice werk.

    Yeah I've been busy. Going to be out of things to do by the time we ever get a meet up day. Took this weekend off from car things

  4. #134
    Quote Originally Posted by TigerTater View Post
    I'm sure the other people will love the oil all over everything lol
    Im actually pretty good about not getting oil every where. Part of my job is to be an environmentalist, so I try and carry my practice over into my personal life.
    Cardboard, lots of cardboard. One neighbor bought a 60" flat screen and the other bought a crib for their soon to be baby. Slide the cardboard under the car. Gives a smooth surface to slide along and also catches all the oil drips

    Only time oil got on the parking lot was when I was teaching my GF how to change her own oil and filter. She took the filter out and flipped it over

  5. #135
    Quick write up for the water pump replacement. Really easy job to do and does not take that long to complete, even with a full coolant flush. I didn't even put the car on jack stands. I just my jack at the factory jacking point on the passenger side, and raised it till the rear tire was about to lift. I then chalk the jack so it would not move, and bean work.

    Step 1.) Safe off car. Put in gear, pull e-brake, chock tires.

    Step 2.) Pop hood and photograph your Belts. This will help the belts go back on properly. Also, loosen water pump pulley bolts!

    Step 3.) Remove belts. I used a small metal pry bar to push down on the hydraulic tensioner to remove the main belt. AC belt was removed by using a socket on the tensioner pulley. (14mm or 16mm, I forget)

    Step 4.) Jack car. I chose to do it from the passenger side thinking that a little slope towards 2 of the drain plugs would help drainage.

    Step 5.) Remove plastic under tray. Should be T25 torx screws. Mine was zip tied in place, yayyy My car may have been in a minor fender bender im thinking. THe entire front end plastic parts are out of alignment and zip tied together :/

    Step 6.) Slide cardboard and catch pan under the car.

    Step 7.) OPEN EXPANSION TANK CAP!!! I forgot to do this, and luckily my car had been sitting for a long time so there was minimal pressure build up.

    Step 8.) Remove water pump pulley. believe they are 10mm bolts, 4 in total. These came out easily for me.

    Step 9.) Remove 4 nuts holding the water pump in place. Again, I believe these to be 4, 10mm nuts.

    Step 10.) Remove water pump by threading a bolt on both sides, in the middle slot. There will be three slots total per side. Top and bottom will have studs from the block passing through them to the nuts. The middle two will be threaded. Get a slightly longer bolt than the water pump pulley bolt, and thread it in! Water pump backs right out. Be ready for fluids!!! Have safety glasses on as a precaution.

    So if you are not doing a full coolant flush, then reverse step 10 backwards. I decided to flush my coolant because it was brown and oily.

    Step 11.) Go under car and open drain plugs
    11a.) Two plastic plugs towards driver side of the radiator
    11b.) one metal plug on the engine block towards the passenger side.

    Once fluid is drained, put plugs back in. DO NOT over tighten the plastic plugs as they will break or strip out!

    Step 12.) Install water pump. I chose to use new hardware but reused the water pump pulley. Just needed some serious cleaning.

    Step 13.) Mix coolant and water. I am in California and my ratio ended up being closer to 60/40 water to coolant, but I am not worried about low temps.

    Step 14.) Turn key to position 2 and turn the heat all the way with fan on low.

    Step 15.) Open bleed screw. There is a small black plastic screw right behind the expansion tank screw. Open this up!

    Step 15.) Pour coolant mixture into expansion tank. Running the heat and the fan will cause the loop to the heater core to open, and coolant will be drain in. IF YOUR RADIATOR light comes on while trying to run the heat, or you have no heat, this will fix that problem!. Fill coolant with fan running until the expansion tank is full and no more bubbles are escaping out of the bleed hole.

    Step 16.) Remove a small amount of coolant mixture. The plunger bob thingy will be maxed out during the fill process, now is the time to get the level dial in. I left mine towards the end of high, at this point.

    Step 17.) Verify work, start the car! I had a lot of anxiety this time around and I don't know why. Leave the expansion cap loose while starting the car. Once the car is started, take the cap off, and you should see a steady stream of coolant mixture flowing back into the expansion tank.

    Anyways, kind of a quick write without too much specifics. I plan on doing a thorough DIY since I actually got a few decent pictures this time around. Pics in next posting.

    Step 16.)

  6. #136
    Very simple tools required for this job. I chose to use new hardware, but reused the water pump pulley. The pulley is plastic, so be careful working around it. Mine was in good shape, just needed a cleaning.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  7. #137
    The old water pump. Look at that stalactite!! One of the common failures with these water pumps, is the weep hole. That is were mine failed. Coolant will slowly leak out and it may be hard to spot at first. Look for white splatter spots near the air box.
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  8. #138
    Old coolant had to go. Pictured are the two plastic drain plugs, both open and draining away.

    Took some effort to clean out the water pump pulley and my god, was there a lot of crude built up. Significant increase in the rotational mass

    Lastly, new shiny water pump in place! I have some more photos that'll end up in the write up.

    Only thing I should have done at this point was my expansion tank. It is the original and needs to be replaced and should have been once all the coolant was out.

    I will get to it eventually and will double check my coolant when I get to it. If its dark and oily again, I know I have a much larger problem. For now, the ZHP is running the best it has in years! Enjoy!
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  9. #139
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Portland, OR
    Yuck! That's some seriously gross stuff, glad you got around to getting it replaced.

    Your spreadsheet reminds me (looks good btw), I need to really update my maintenance spreadsheet to be more detailed than it currently is. I shudder to think at how much I've spent so far...

  10. #140
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Nice work!
    WRT the belt diagram in an earlier thread. I keep this in DropBox and on my phone.

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