Nah, took about 3. I had to stop for lunch.
Nah, took about 3. I had to stop for lunch.
-Corey
2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 210k
Dead due to damaged valve. Parts are being transferred to a wagon:
2003 325iT Japanrot 6MT @ 230k
My rear carpets are wet from when I washed my car. I'll probably be back inside my door panels soon. If I have to replace my vapor barriers, I'm not going to use the OEM foam insulation. Instead, I'll use thick plastic sheeting/clear vinyl and butyl rope for vapor protection. $44 a door be damned!
But wait, there's more!
If you've been following this thread, you know that I installed sound deadening onto the outer skin of the door. It really solidified the door feel. This type of sound deadening is NOT a replacement for the foam style OEM vapor barrier. It only stops panel resonance. Let's discuss the other levels below.
The next level after controlling the panel resonance would be to add some type of thermal insulation:
https://store.secondskinaudio.com/he...r-made-in-usa/
This should be attached to the outer door skin and should help with maintaining the interior temperature of the car. After working inside the door panel, I noticed that there is significant heat radiated into the interior from the door cavity and outer door skin. Hopefully this will reduce that.
After controlling the temperature, we still need an acoustic blocker of some sort. That's where these two come in to play:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...aded-vinyl-mlv
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...-cell-foam-ccf
Ideally, they'll prevent noise from entering the cabin through the doors of the vehicle.
New tree clips, and trim holder clips.
I should lube up the regulators, clean the window tracks and lube those up as well since I didn't do that the last time.
I might remove the window glass and strip that 5% tint off too.
From left to right:
Thermal block (thermal insulation), closed cell foam (used for decoupling and rattle prevention), MLV (the acoustic barrier)
Last edited by DeathTrap; 10-19-2018 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Added pickchure
-Corey
2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 210k
Dead due to damaged valve. Parts are being transferred to a wagon:
2003 325iT Japanrot 6MT @ 230k
I was going to tell you to check the seal on the sunroof but it looks like you don't have one?
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
I do have a sunroof. I'll double check the drains and seals. They should be in decent condition as this only started happening after I replaced my regulators. Coincidence?
-Corey
2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 210k
Dead due to damaged valve. Parts are being transferred to a wagon:
2003 325iT Japanrot 6MT @ 230k
Mine started leaking and it was a bad seal on the sunroof... that's why I mentioned...
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Everyone's favorite tool! The headlight was removed to grant easier access to the P/S lines.
This was my view for a few:
Then there was this. Again, not bad for 180k miles and 16 years:
Money Shot!:
Pump nut still good:
Replaced this o-ring:
And the one under here:
Eventually, I got to this point:
I think I broke my dipstick. I know I poured over 7 liters of oil in this thing and it still reads halfway on the dipstick...whatever, I'll keep an eye on it.
-Corey
2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 210k
Dead due to damaged valve. Parts are being transferred to a wagon:
2003 325iT Japanrot 6MT @ 230k
Nice! Hope the dipstick thing works out.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
"ZHP or not, I still like you"
ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture
The Bentley says capacity for RWD cars is 6.9 liters, but I've seen 7.5 referenced elsewhere. The extra bit is probably because of the oil filter taking some oil as well. I don't think the listed crankcase capacity accounts for the filter despite saying so, because 6.9 liters is never enough for my oil changes.
When are you reading your oil level, cold or hot engine? The manual says to read the oil level about 5 minutes after shutting the car off (engine warm). I used to check it when cold before seeing that. It's also possible your sensor isn't quite working properly.
Exerpt:
Checking the oil level
1.Park the vehicle on a level surface
2.Switch the engine off after it has reached normal operating temperature
3.After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar material
4.Carefully push the dipstick all the way into the guide tube and pull it out again
5.The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick.