Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Manassas, VA
    Posts
    64
    Hi. A bit late to this, but I'm in Manassas, on the Woodbridge side so not too far from you. I just met Shawn and a few other local guys this month, as I'm sorta new to the Mafia. Owned my car almost a year and it's about to hit 100k, so I'm about to do a preemptive engine compartment refresh, probably suspension soon to follow. Shawn gave me some good tips. Not really planning any performance upgrades, but I'm sure I could be easily swayed. Look forward to meeting you when the time is right. I probably ought to meet Bruce soon also--it looks like he has a wealth of experience.
    Rob
    Rob

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Fairfax Station, VA
    Posts
    2,806
    Anthony,
    The offer still stands, let me know when you want to do the Shark install. On the OFHG, use a piece of cardboard and punch 6 holes (2 at top, 2 more rows of 2 below it, like a 6-pack holder). Use that to put your bolts in because they are different lengths on that OFH and must go back in the correct holes for it to seat properly.

    Rob,
    I look forward to meeting you sometime too. We used to have a '04 vert ZHP 6 sped, was my wife's, a fun car and rare with an alcantara interior.

    Bruce

    Bruce
    21 GMC Sierra - mine
    16 X5 M-Sport - wife
    11 M3 - 1st son
    04 Tundra - 2nd son
    17 X1 M-Sport - daughter

    Former (mo/yr sold):
    15 335xi M-Sport (8/18)
    11 335is (8/17)
    11 X5 AW/blk (11/15)
    04 330xi blk/gray (7/15)
    06 ZHP SGM/blk (6/15)
    08 335xi blue/blk (4/15)
    04 ZHPci MB/blk (2/14)
    04 ZHPcic IR/Alc (10/13)
    01 540iT anthra/blk (7/13)
    04 ZHPci TIAG/blk (9/12)
    03 540i M-Sport (9/12)
    01 325ci (3/12)
    02 325iT 5MT (10/11)
    05 ZHPci (7/11)
    03 330cic (2/11)
    00 323ci (10/10)

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Hey Bruce! So you got rid of the vert? Nice of you to offer the assistance.

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Sterling, VA 20165
    Posts
    431
    Welcome! Virginia member list keeps growing! I'm from Sterling VA.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    2004 ZHP Acquired: February 5, 2017
    Lorenzo's Project Thread

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    17
    Hey all, I appreciate the welcoming. Bruce, I have bought the Shark and I intend to do it this weekend. I got a great deal on a shop charger off Amazon. Truth be told I have 6 kids (5 under 6yo) and finding time away has been a real challenge to the wife and I. I hope to meet you all some time soon. I appreciated Shawn's invite earlier this month, but I already promised the wife some getaway time.

    Over the last couple weekends I have knocked out OFHA, I used the cardboard trick Bruce recommended, installed AFE Stage 1 intake, Sprint boost and 2 window regulators. I do have an SES I'm trying to tackle. Codes are 2882 fuel bank 1, 2974 pre-cat O2 & 27C3 oil level sensor. I think the oil level sensor could be bad due to the copious amounts of oil on it with the OFHA leak. As for the other 2 codes, I replaced the CCV due to a Hydro lock last february after moving here from Hawaii. Did not have Cold Weather CCV. I replaced all O2's in October. It was recommended that I change the MAF because I was changing the O2's, but I couldn't afford it at the time. I know my DISA is getting a little louder and I will replace in the next 2-3 months. I have replaced all tensioners, pulleys, belts, Alternator, plugs, vac hoses, F connector, fuel filter, oil/filter and VCG. VANOS was done 15-20k ago. I'm hoping shark will resolve the 2882 & 2974. Thinking in will have to change the Oil Level Sensor to clear that.

    I have read a lot of threads and as far as I can tell I have done most fixes that will throw these codes except MAF, DISA or fuel pump. Fuel pump was changed in 2011 same as VANOS 15-20K ago.

    I would greatly appreciate any recommendations for items I have yet to look at. BTW I am using a Bavarian Technical reader, I do intend to upgrade to a BLUETOOTH OBDII, after taxes of course.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Fairfax Station, VA
    Posts
    2,806
    Anthony,
    Crap, you could've borrowed my battery charger versus buying one. I work in Stafford right outside the Quantico Marine Base, would've been fairly easy to meet up to loan it to you. Do the oil level sensor when you change the oil, because of its location you're going to lose the oil anyway. The oil level sensor is a wire inside the oil pan, it feels for/senses the oil level. If someone turned the key to the on position when the oil was being changed, I.e., no oil in the pan, that wire fries itself in a few seconds. That sometimes happens because a tech will try to reset the oil maintenance interval indicator on the dash in the middle of an oil change, not a good move. On the MAF sensor, have you tried cleaning it with MAF cleaner, $5 for a can from any auto parts store. just remember to only spray in the direction of the air flow, spray, wait repeat, a few times. When doing the DISA valve, plan to pull the ICV and clean it with carb cleaner, it makes a difference. Also, the big diameter intake boots, upper & lower, did you replace those? If not, do so when you check the DISA. On the fuel bank code, has the fuel filter ever been changed? It's a 2-man job unless you want a gasoline perfume bath. A bad DISA could also cause that fuel bank code. The pre-O2 code is alluding me right now.
    Bruce

    Bruce
    21 GMC Sierra - mine
    16 X5 M-Sport - wife
    11 M3 - 1st son
    04 Tundra - 2nd son
    17 X1 M-Sport - daughter

    Former (mo/yr sold):
    15 335xi M-Sport (8/18)
    11 335is (8/17)
    11 X5 AW/blk (11/15)
    04 330xi blk/gray (7/15)
    06 ZHP SGM/blk (6/15)
    08 335xi blue/blk (4/15)
    04 ZHPci MB/blk (2/14)
    04 ZHPcic IR/Alc (10/13)
    01 540iT anthra/blk (7/13)
    04 ZHPci TIAG/blk (9/12)
    03 540i M-Sport (9/12)
    01 325ci (3/12)
    02 325iT 5MT (10/11)
    05 ZHPci (7/11)
    03 330cic (2/11)
    00 323ci (10/10)

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    17
    I appreciate it, but who couldn't use a new battery charger. I have cleaned the MAF and the ICV (was really black). The upper and lower boots were inspected when I installed the intake. I replaced cracked boots in 2014 and they looked fine. I will check again since the boots looked good and I did not do the most thorough inspection. Fuel filter has been replaced, I have done it every 15k. I don't remember turning key during oil change, but I cannot commit to that answer. Thanks again! As you can tell, I'm reaching.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    17
    ICV boot was also replaced when cleaned. Intake manifold gasket was replaced with CCV following Hydrolock (shop did repairs).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Belated welcome. Have fun. Stay safe.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    17
    Hello Gentlemen, I apologize for the silence. I have been really busy this spring.

    Ok, I bought a Bluetooth OBDII. I bought, but never replaced the oil level sensor. I cleaned it and added dielectric grease and have not had any problems. I also never got to the SHARK.

    Which brings me to the point, I need to update DME with SHARK. I have the charger already. I have purchased Turner Pulley kit and the RETRO-QUICK kit w/ new ZKW lenses. The goal is to get these done in July.

    I have a new problem, the oil leak was cleared after the OHFA gasket repair. However, now I have a few more spots in the driveway. At closer inspection I can tell its dripping out the oil plug access cover and backend of the skid plate, but it's not the oil plug. I needed to do an oil change about 1k ago. Over the last few months I have been adding about a 1/2 quart every month. I have replaced the oil cap, and gaskets. I cannot definitively tell where the leak is from. I can see no oil around VCG, OHFA, or VANOS hoses. The dipstick is dry but the oil level sender is filthy. I am not convinced it is the oil level sensor, since the cable is dirty a far up as I can see. I don't know if motor oil migrates up like penetrating oil does and if it was wind pushing it up shouldn't it be everywhere?

    To the point again, I think it's the oil pan gasket. I think it's leaking from the aft end by the bell housing. After obtaining 3 quotes ranging from $2200-$2800, I have decided I am going to tackle this myself and hopefully get to finally meet some of y'all. To me it's better to spend $150 on the tools, parts, some food to eat and beers to drink while doing it. I am busy for the rest of June, but that gives me a chance to buy the required Engine Support Bar. I have already purchased the oil pan gasket and dipstick gaskets.

    Is there anything else I should replace while in there?

    I just did the FCABs earlier this year.

    I also want to do the pulleys at the same time since I am pulling the intake, belts, and Power Steering Pump exposing the alternator.

    Lastly, I want to do an upper engine cleaning the day before using ACDELCO X66P and an Liqui-Moly engine flush since I will be changing the oil anyway.

    I am confident I can do all of these but I want to repay the invite to come over and hopefully y'all can help a brother out. I am going to buy an electric impact wrench and sockets since I only have a pancake compressor.

    Standing by for any comments and recommendations.

    Based on my work schedule it will be on a weekend. I will probably do the upper engine cleaning, Liqui-Moly flush the day before and drain the oil the night before.

    If anyone is interested, message me.
    Last edited by SapBlk330i; 06-20-2017 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Apparently I cannot spell properly!

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