Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 34
  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by fw_fw View Post
    $300 battery??? From the dealer installed cost maybe. Autozone should be battery $150-175, and they install for free. Alternator start around $275 for a refurb and go up from there, plus install costs if you don't DIY...
    I just paid ~$165 for a battery from a dealership! That is a huge rip off. Install should be in quotes as it took 5 minutes to swap the old for new

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    No dealer trip required. Here's a DIY video on a touring. The process is pretty similar. Sockets required might be different on the sedan.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beN2L0TFmPU

    Also:
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Prestovie View Post
    Well shoot, how difficult is it to install the battery? Or do I actually have to take it into the dealer?
    On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the hardest, its a solid 1.

    Go to trunk and open. Lifting trunk floor up and pull the black plastic tray on your right out. It will have the side carpet / upholstery thing going into it, so some force will be required. Loosen the tie down, two bolts either 10 or 12mm. Move tie down out of the way. Disconnected battery by removing leads. Again two nuts, either 10 or 12mm. One thing I almost missed isthe plastic breather tube. This will be on the side of the battery facing the front of the car. Simply pull the tubing off the battery. MAKE SURE to keep hte black plastic elbow piece as the new battery will not come with one.

    reverse the steps above and bam, new battery in 10-15 mins for a new guy. Any questions PM me. Just did this last week.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    807
    Quote Originally Posted by GotZHP View Post
    On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the hardest, its a solid 1.

    Go to trunk and open. Lifting trunk floor up and pull the black plastic tray on your right out. It will have the side carpet / upholstery thing going into it, so some force will be required. Loosen the tie down, two bolts either 10 or 12mm. Move tie down out of the way. Disconnected battery by removing leads. Again two nuts, either 10 or 12mm. One thing I almost missed isthe plastic breather tube. This will be on the side of the battery facing the front of the car. Simply pull the tubing off the battery. MAKE SURE to keep hte black plastic elbow piece as the new battery will not come with one.

    reverse the steps above and bam, new battery in 10-15 mins for a new guy. Any questions PM me. Just did this last week.
    Thanks so much for the help man, appreciate the step by step. Any recommendations on battery brand? Or should I opt for OEM?

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Prestovie View Post
    Thanks so much for the help man, appreciate the step by step. Any recommendations on battery brand? Or should I opt for OEM?
    I tend to normally go with the OEM option but that is because I get killer pricing at the dealership near buy. In this case I am sure a battery from Autozone will do just fine. It will be around 200 from there vs the 300 from the dealership, so 100 saved for later maintenance.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    807
    Quote Originally Posted by GotZHP View Post
    I tend to normally go with the OEM option but that is because I get killer pricing at the dealership near buy. In this case I am sure a battery from Autozone will do just fine. It will be around 200 from there vs the 300 from the dealership, so 100 saved for later maintenance.
    Nice, thanks again I should be able to go sometime this week hopefully. Also for some reason now my "Service Engine Soon" light actually turned off after all of this, so idk if it fixed itself or what haha, but that light has been on since I bought it

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,252
    Quote Originally Posted by Prestovie View Post
    Thanks so much for the help man, appreciate the step by step. Any recommendations on battery brand? Or should I opt for OEM?
    I got a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG from Auto Zone. More CCAs than factory battery, and was cheaper (about $180).

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    I got a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG from Auto Zone. More CCAs than factory battery, and was cheaper (about $180).
    I think it's that one that only lasted me 2 years.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    I got a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG from Auto Zone. More CCAs than factory battery, and was cheaper (about $180).
    I think it's that one that only lasted me 2 years.

    EDIT: Nope, it was the 49DL that lasted only 2 years. Just passed Year 3 on the 94R-DLG.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    26
    Funny thing that this thread should pop up.... I don't entirely mean to hijack it, but I had a VERY similar issue.

    Last night, I was driving (cruising at 80 on the hwy), everything operating normally, and....
    My zhp's electronics started to turn off one by one (cruise control, dash lights, radio, etc) and it eventually came to a sad, dead, stop.

    Tried to start it again after waiting a few minutes. Engine *eventually* starts and runs, but as soon as you turn on the headlights, ABS, DSC lights come on- making it unsafe to drive. Red Battery light comes on also.

    Earlier this month, I replaced the voltage regulator on my alternator, which brought my voltage up to the correct levels (13-14v when idle then revving).

    Before I left my car, I ran the onboard diagnostic voltage test... and even just at idle, my car was only getting 10v!!

    And without a doubt, i know that can't be right. My battery is new(er), but not old by any stretch.

    Could the alternator have failed? Could the voltage regulator I so lovingly DIY'd, have failed?

    Kinda hard to say without testing.

    Any thoughts? I'm considering taking it to an indy bmw shop nearby to have it checked out.. I just don't want to if i dont have to

    Thank you!!

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Miscellaneous Electronics... CHEAP (borderline free)
    By JupiterBMW in forum Miscellaneous (no vehicle-related items)
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11-04-2013, 06:22 PM
  2. Electronics! Need Advice ASAP!
    By Avetiso in forum Mechanical | Troubleshooting
    Replies: 61
    Last Post: 08-05-2013, 10:35 AM
  3. engine shut off
    By PHZ in forum Mechanical | Troubleshooting
    Replies: 74
    Last Post: 01-22-2013, 04:24 PM
  4. Trusted electronics installer in/around NYC? (For Dice Mediabridge)
    By 2004_blue_zhp in forum General -- ZHP Related
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-10-2011, 03:07 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •