Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Branford, CT
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    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by stephenkirsh View Post
    What’s the advantage?
    Significantly reduced oil consumption, in our case.
    I was speaking to the guy at FCP about it and he was also saying the diesel oils have better "protective" qualities compared to the gasoline ones. I'm guessing it may be due to stricter requirements for diesel engines? I hope I understood him correctly. I did specifically ask whether it was safe to run in a gas-powered car and he said absolutely.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    2,973
    Interesting. I’ll have to look into this


    His: 05 330 ZHP Imola Red - 07 Z4 M Coupe Imola Red
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    2004 325 M56 Steel Blue Metallic - Sold
    Stephen's DD & AutoX/HPDE Build Thread
    Stewart WP - Z4M LCAB - M3 trans/motor mounts - DICE MediageBridge Duo - ARC-8 17x8.5"
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    Bilstein PSS10 - Turner Sway Bars 27/21 - ECST RTAB Limiters - R.E. RSM


  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    I have an update on my oil consumption situation. It used to be that I had to add about a quart every 500-600 miles, which was every 1-1.5 months. I had some work done and now the light hasn't been on for several months and it was only down 3/4 of a quart today.

    The major changes were the GAS CCV system and oil pan gasket. Unfortunately I haven't been monitoring closely after these were done to tell which one made the major difference and the gasket was done a few months after the CCV. Also there is another variable, since I had an oil change done at the time of the gasket and it's now on LiquiMoly 5W30. The consumption is still probably a lot but around half of what it used to be.

    TLDR:
    X+Y+Z = less oil usage

  4. #84
    Funny that you mention it. Just recently had that done on my 03: CCV, VCG and o/c with LM 5W30. 303k miles and still loses oil but not at the rate previously.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    216
    So reviving an old thread. Oil consumption has held steady around a quart every 500 miles. Tried the Rotella T6 oil, no difference. I do have an oil pan gasket leak but it is drops at a time (I have a plastic mat on my garage floor under the engine and it is literally drops every day).

    However I recently took a road trip to golf at Bandon Dunes and drove 500 miles RT. I made sure the oil was full on the dipstick when i left. I checked the oil when I arrived at Bandon, no drop in oil. And checked again when I got home, no change. Apparently I burned no oil for a 500 mi RT when I typically go through a quart over that distance.

    I did have the car on cruise control most of the way and was averaging 80mph.

    Why did I burn zero oil on this trip? It is the constant RPM? Just curious why this would be the case. I haven't driven much since I have been back home, so can't tell if the normal oil will return. Just very odd to have no oil consumption. Any advice would be appreciated if someone had a similar experience.
    2004 330i E46 with ZHP performance package and cold weather package

  6. #86
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by dpark View Post
    So reviving an old thread. Oil consumption has held steady around a quart every 500 miles. Tried the Rotella T6 oil, no difference. I do have an oil pan gasket leak but it is drops at a time (I have a plastic mat on my garage floor under the engine and it is literally drops every day).

    However I recently took a road trip to golf at Bandon Dunes and drove 500 miles RT. I made sure the oil was full on the dipstick when i left. I checked the oil when I arrived at Bandon, no drop in oil. And checked again when I got home, no change. Apparently I burned no oil for a 500 mi RT when I typically go through a quart over that distance.

    I did have the car on cruise control most of the way and was averaging 80mph.

    Why did I burn zero oil on this trip? It is the constant RPM? Just curious why this would be the case. I haven't driven much since I have been back home, so can't tell if the normal oil will return. Just very odd to have no oil consumption. Any advice would be appreciated if someone had a similar experience.
    My car consumes a bit of oil and I've found the same. Drove from Toronto to the SF Bay area and didn't have to fill oil even once.

    Conversely I've found that when I autox or consistently drive my car hard, oil consumption is much higher than normal. I never let my oil get much lower than maybe 3 mm below the full line on the dipstick, so I've found that I had to fill up after a day of hard driving to maintain my oil level to within this tolerance.

    It's because of the difference in pressure below versus above the piston rings. Higher engine loads and speeds create higher combustion pressure, so more oil is likely to make it past the rings and into the crankcase
    Last edited by t.er; 05-17-2020 at 10:56 PM.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  7. #87
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    W/S, NC
    Posts
    141
    I remember reading something that says the consumption is most prominent whenever you're in high revs but letting off the gas. So rev matching, downshifting, that type of thing. Has to do with changes in vacuum pressure.

    How true that is, I don't know.

    Have you tried the O2 Pilot mod?

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    - 2005 Titanium Silver 330i ZHP 6spd -


  8. #88
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
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    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguy_JZ View Post
    I remember reading something that says the consumption is most prominent whenever you're in high revs but letting off the gas. So rev matching, downshifting, that type of thing. Has to do with changes in vacuum pressure.

    How true that is, I don't know.

    Have you tried the O2 Pilot mod?

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    I remember reading something years ago, where GAS did testing of the rear main seal, and simulated the O2 Pilot mod by applying the same vacuum pressure to behind the seal. He ran a smoke machine in front of the seal, and the smoke got sucked in. I forget where I saw it but I also remember seeing pics of the M54 rear main seal, most conventional seals have a coil spring around the circumference to maintain compression on the crank, but the M54's seal is low-tension and doesn't have one.

    IMO the right way to go about this is either the GAS CCV, or the M56 valve cover - I wouldn't want to risk dirtier oil or blown seals with more crankcase vacuum
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  9. #89
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    W/S, NC
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    I remember reading something years ago, where GAS did testing of the rear main seal, and simulated the O2 Pilot mod by applying the same vacuum pressure to behind the seal. He ran a smoke machine in front of the seal, and the smoke got sucked in. I forget where I saw it but I also remember seeing pics of the M54 rear main seal, most conventional seals have a coil spring around the circumference to maintain compression on the crank, but the M54's seal is low-tension and doesn't have one.

    IMO the right way to go about this is either the GAS CCV, or the M56 valve cover - I wouldn't want to risk dirtier oil or blown seals with more crankcase vacuum
    I've heard that as well, about the rear main sucking in dirt. I guess you could do an oil analysis before and after. A number of guys have been running the O2 mod for a while without failure. If you're going through a qt every 500 miles I'd think you'd be more likely to blow the engine from low oil before the trace amounts of dirt would do it in. Pick your evil I guess.

    M56 manifold is an option but one that isn't really serviceable. The membrane in the cap isn't readily replaceable. The Russian one doesn't seal quite right and requires tweaking to provide correct vacuum. Replacement caps aren't readily available either.



    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    - 2005 Titanium Silver 330i ZHP 6spd -


  10. #90
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguy_JZ View Post
    I've heard that as well, about the rear main sucking in dirt. I guess you could do an oil analysis before and after. A number of guys have been running the O2 mod for a while without failure. If you're going through a qt every 500 miles I'd think you'd be more likely to blow the engine from low oil before the trace amounts of dirt would do it in. Pick your evil I guess.

    M56 manifold is an option but one that isn't really serviceable. The membrane in the cap isn't readily replaceable. The Russian one doesn't seal quite right and requires tweaking to provide correct vacuum. Replacement caps aren't readily available either.



    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    I haven't done a whole lot of reading on the M56 valve cover, so I'm not familiar with replacement options for the cap, but I believe there's a guy in Cyprus who is working with a machinist to CNC new ones.

    Luckily I'm still quite a while away from all that - I only drive my car from April to October so I rarely see freezing temps, and by my best guess I'm going through 1L/4000 km or so with a stock setup and Rotella T6
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


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