What MPG are you getting??

[Sockethead]

On the spark plug thing, I had relatively new plugs in my car at one time and after winter storage, the car ran pretty rough, seemed down on power, etc. After checking everything, I swapped plugs out for new and the car was back to normal...

[SaltyNC]

Ok so I only had the space and energy to measure one rotor, the right rear, and it is still well over minimum thickness (I measured in 2 spots and got 22mm and 24mm. Could not measure anywhere else because of the dust guard.)
However, this looks concerning to me. All my brake pads are in contact with the rotors when the car is parked. Is this normal??:

You can try spinning each wheel with it mounted. It should not free-spin, but shouldn't be hard to turn, either. Checking for heat is easy. If it is sticking, after driving a mile, that rotor will be hot enough to feel through the wheel spokes. Or you can do like I did the first time and touch my finger to the rotor. If it sizzles and you feel extreme pain, the caliper is stuck.

Salty

[zhpnsnv]

I'm anywhere from 20-27 mixed highway and around town. Light winter wheels with skinny tires helps offset our winter mix fuel with ethanol. At least that's my uneducated guess. OBC reads 26.x currently.

157k miles. Just did fuel filter. All inspection ii items done around 130k.

Original o2 sensors and I'm not going to touch them until they go. Not interested in the battle with the post cat sensors unless someone knows of a sweet trick to get them out.

When they do go that will be a good excuse to get a sweet header set up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

No point in changing the post cat sensors, all they do is make sure the cats are doing their job...

[papa_g]

On the spark plug thing, I had relatively new plugs in my car at one time and after winter storage, the car ran pretty rough, seemed down on power, etc. After checking everything, I swapped plugs out for new and the car was back to normal...

So were you like me, not seeing any codes either? I do get a rough idle when the car is warming up; it hums along at 750 rpm, then the needle drops to 700 with a 1-2 second rough patch, then back up to 750, and this happens as much as 10 times until the engine warms up. Despite what Dane said, I am going to try swapping the plugs to see if it helps. I got them off FCP, so i am not afraid to waste the old ones at this point.

You can try spinning each wheel with it mounted. It should not free-spin, but shouldn't be hard to turn, either. Checking for heat is easy. If it is sticking, after driving a mile, that rotor will be hot enough to feel through the wheel spokes. Or you can do like I did the first time and touch my finger to the rotor. If it sizzles and you feel extreme pain, the caliper is stuck.
Salty

I will give it a try tonight after my drive. Hopefully i don't feel pain, then a cold sensation, followed by the sweet smell of bbq .

[Sockethead]

No I didn't have any codes and the old plugs didn't look that bad. However, the car did run much better with the new ones... I was stumped but the car doesn't lie...

[papa_g]

I will give it a try tonight and let you know how it goes this week.... I forget, should I disconnect the battery before unplugging the coils?

[Sockethead]

No you'll be fine as long as the ignition is off. It's when you crank the motor that you run into problems...

[nextelbuddy]

Using the OBC I get around 17-18 city and about 26-27 on the highway.

[Dave1027]

My OBC says I'm averaging 24.9 mpg on 50/50 city/hwy driving. I checked it by monitoring how much gas I'm adding at the pump and doing the calculation. Turns out the OBC is a little bit of a liar. I'm really only getting 24.1. Still good for a one of these cars.