Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Portland, Maine, USA area
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    840
    I feel I recall from somewhere that there's a separate fuse for the headlight washers that can be removed to disable them. Is that the case? Mine are getting a lot of use this winter and I see a failure coming on...
    2006 6MT Coupe, Alpine White • Premium, Cold Weather and Xenon packages
    MFactory 3.38 LSD • 27mm M3 bar • ECS strut brace • Koni FSD's


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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Dual View Post
    I feel I recall from somewhere that there's a separate fuse for the headlight washers that can be removed to disable them. Is that the case? Mine are getting a lot of use this winter and I see a failure coming on...
    Or you could just disconnect the electrical connector to the headlight washer pump.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Portland, Maine, USA area
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    840
    Thank you! Done (and wrapped).
    2006 6MT Coupe, Alpine White • Premium, Cold Weather and Xenon packages
    MFactory 3.38 LSD • 27mm M3 bar • ECS strut brace • Koni FSD's


    Other tweaks: see my profile




  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Atlanta/Macon, Georgia
    Posts
    574
    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    I went OCD on this exact thing last summer. Ordered a new pump, grommet, connection piece (61668360181), hose etc. But there was still a leak from one of the actual nozzles. And then the little painted covers cracked and I super-glued them just like you. Then I just gave up and capped the headlight washer pump and disconnected it from the hose and the electrical connector. As long as I have proper functional windshield washers, i'm good.
    Sorry for the old thread revival, but what did you use to cap the pump and allow the reservoir to fill again? I'm having the same issue and I'd really like to use my windshield washers again

    2004 Titansilber Metallic BMW 330i ZHP

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Portland, Maine, USA area
    Posts
    840
    In my case I wrapped the on-reservoir connector with electrical tape, leaving an open void to fill with black RTV.

    Later on I removed the headlight washer fuse and put the connector back in place.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by JPMo View Post
    Sorry for the old thread revival, but what did you use to cap the pump and allow the reservoir to fill again? I'm having the same issue and I'd really like to use my windshield washers again
    I took a piece of plastic (actually a pen cap) which fit nicely in the outlet of the headlamp washer pump and then super-glued it. I didnt care about destroying the pump in the process since it was an old, non-functioning one anyways. Sounds ghetto but it worked perfectly for me.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Atlanta/Macon, Georgia
    Posts
    574
    Thanks for the info. Im getting tired of seeing the reservoir low light on

    2004 Titansilber Metallic BMW 330i ZHP

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Metro West, MA
    Posts
    21
    So it turns out I have a similar problem to dpark. I'm getting washer fluid on the floor on the passenger side in front of and just inboard of the wheel. I would assume that it is either a leak in the plumbing to the head light washers or perhaps it is a leaky pump that is allowing fluid to pass down the hose to the headlight washer nozzle and then dribble out slowly but continuously. Before I start pulling out the headlight to gain access to the plumbing - could the problem simply be the pump? The pumps still work - but perhaps with age the headlight washer pump is just not closing when it turns off. That would be a much easier fix. I did take the tank out and verify that there is no leaking of the tank or where any of the pumps attach to the tank.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by shendrick View Post
    So it turns out I have a similar problem to dpark. I'm getting washer fluid on the floor on the passenger side in front of and just inboard of the wheel. I would assume that it is either a leak in the plumbing to the head light washers or perhaps it is a leaky pump that is allowing fluid to pass down the hose to the headlight washer nozzle and then dribble out slowly but continuously. Before I start pulling out the headlight to gain access to the plumbing - could the problem simply be the pump? The pumps still work - but perhaps with age the headlight washer pump is just not closing when it turns off. That would be a much easier fix. I did take the tank out and verify that there is no leaking of the tank or where any of the pumps attach to the tank.
    Hi Shendrick,

    THe problem can be insidious if it isn't just the grommet or the headlight washer pump. Neither was the problem for me. I replaced both AND the passenger headlight washer and I still have a very slow leak. The plumbing from the output of the headlight washer pump goes through the bumper and it wasn't worth my time to deal with it anymore.

    So despite wasting about $70 on parts, I went to Home Depot and bought a rubber stopper and just shoved it in the hole where the headlight washer grommet and washer pump goes, took out the grommet and washer pump, and used saran wrap and electrical tape to close off the electrical connector. No more headlight washers, no more leak.

    Probably the most irritating thing I have ever dealt with on my e46. What a flim-flam system from BMW. Even more than the cooling system, this thing is totally set up to fail and be near impossible to fix.
    2004 330i E46 with ZHP performance package and cold weather package

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Birmingham Michigan
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by dpark View Post
    This keeps getting better and better. The plastic covers for the headlight washers are SUPER flimsy. Turns out both of mine were already broken on the inside, the two loops of plastic that connect onto the headlight nozzle. Surprised neither of them fell off by themselves. I superglued them back together for now and have ordered a new headlight washer nozzle for the right side, and also a new headlight washer pump and filter sleeve to see if this solves the problems of the leak and the zero water pressure on the left side. I think the leak is with the broken headlight washer nozzle. What a pain in the butt...

    As for the plasticy headlight washer covers, where do you go to get new ones painted? on FCP Euro, they come primered. Do you just buy touch up paint and paint them? I can't see a body shop going through the trouble of painting things so small...

    In response to your painting issue I'll include the information for ordering the correct matching paint for your car. Yes, you are correct in stating most body repair shops won't wish to deal with such a low order/job. I have gone this route when repairing small areas on my MINI and BMW. The match was PERFECT and indeed sped things along with little hassle.

    That said, I had issues with my washer system.. Maining due to my removal of the lamps to install the angle eyes. They really are not that much of an issue once one figures out the sequence. The breakage I can image comes from improper removal of the finish plate (with the the two hoops on the back and it's separation from the nozzle. Upon study it's a really simple press out system (with a slight "twist"). The trick is to use a pick tool. Pull out the assembly (you'll meet resistance (or actually more accurately a dampened resistance) due to the system is under pressure. Well, not if you if have a leak or the system is empty. Anyway, grab the whole thing and pull with your grasp near where the nozzle inserts into the rest of the system. Of course once it pulls out fluid will drain out. Either drain the system beforehand (if it's not empty already) or let the remainder drain into a receptacle.

    Once replacing the damaged nozzle with new (or just reassembling with the intact old one due to some other factor) and snapping onto the cover via the two loops just insert the entire sub assembly into the cavity aligning the nozzle stem into the retracted receptacle open ended tube. Then press home. You'll feel it snap in place.

    I've done this a few times with the same part and no leakage issues. Neither with the replacement NOR the old 9 year old one.

    Also remember the parts are handed (left - right)

    Yes, I know I could omit them but I'm anal about keeping things functioning as they were intended. And with a relatively simple system albeit ("fiddly" ) I don't mind keeping the OE system in place.

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    Last edited by CYTH_2; 03-22-2017 at 09:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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